More Swiss 1882 cartridge ideas...

I’m using a first year production Swede 1887 Belgian made Nagant and I’m loading using .32S&W dies and a 9mm Luger base to hold the cartridge. They’ll fire form just fine. I have a combination of two types of brass. 7.62X38 Nagant brass trimmed to length and 32-20 brass which I find I prefer. The cartridge is similar to the Swiss 7.5.
 
bgcameron said:
Piecing together my kit to reload for this caliber..

I have found that the Lee 30 Luger seating die is not compatible with my Jethunter .314 bullets. The bullets are too wide.

The bullets seem to slide easily into Starline 32-20 case trimmed to 23mm and sized in a 30 carbine die. The neck tension from seating would happen further into the case where the brass thickens. I was hoping that a 32 S&W long seating die would solve all of this.

However, the 32 S&W long seater die is too narrow at the base to allow the case to enter far enough to apply a crimp while seating. I think the only way around this is to use a longer case, either uncut or slightly cut. This would provide better neck tension as the case mouth will be narrower from tapered 30 carbine sizing die, and the case will be long enough to reach the crimp ring in the 32 s&w long seater die.
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I think I have finally found my winning combo. This is just a dummy round so I have yet to work up a load.

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On the left is a 32-20 case resized in a 30 carbine die and cut to 23mm. In the middle is the same but only cut down to 30mm. On the right is an untouched 32-20 case.

Cutting the case down to 30mm allows my Jethunter bullet to be seated to the crimp groove and sit just behind the face of the cylinder. 3.8 grains of Trailboss fits uncompressed, which makes me comfortable using a start charge of 2.6 grains and move up to around 3.0 grains.
 
I’ve been lurking this thread for a while... I actually was able to try out my Swiss 1882 today.
Full length 32-20 starline brass resized in a 30 carbine die. 98 grain hbwc lead bullet seated with a modified 32-20 seater that I turned on the lathe to deeply seat the bullet. I set the COL based on the cylinder length, excellent results! 4” group at 25 yards using unique powder!

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16llhc1.jpg
 
On a related note…was there/is there a proper shoulder holster that would fit this revolver (like a S&W victory pistol). I guess I could fashion a shoulder strap for the holster mine came with but might look like hell!
 
GP11 said:
I’ve been lurking this thread for a while... I actually was able to try out my Swiss 1882 today.
Full length 32-20 starline brass resized in a 30 carbine die. 98 grain hbwc lead bullet seated with a modified 32-20 seater that I turned on the lathe to deeply seat the bullet. I set the COL based on the cylinder length, excellent results! 4” group at 25 yards using unique powder!

122ena9.jpg

16llhc1.jpg
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Great！I have been gathering knowledge，components and reloading dies for 7.5 mm Swiss.
Would you please answer several questions：
1,98 grain hbwc lead bullet：I googled and found different bullets，so not sure which one is the correct one.
2, seated with a modified 32-20 seater: how did you modify the seater?
3, no crimp needed?
Regards,
 
Humour me... trying to help here. I love me a 32-20, all are not the same. Had a Husky SS was awesome. Tines got tough and I sold it.
Grabbed up a Marlin...generous bore is an understatement.
Grabbed another Marlin in 25-20. Well, let's just say the resizing of Starline brass is going, OK ?
Got a few fails in there; some split necks from the generous chamber...some from feeling out the resizing.
How short is too short to donate to the cause?
 
Depends on the set up, I find 32-20 rims are too thick so no matter how short brass is, they don't work in any of my revolvers unless modified. too much work. I just use Russian nagant cases. Length wise you can trim as much as you want as the rim is your headspace. as long as they fit in the mag and chamber and case can hold your projectile you should be good to go.
 
gewehr76 said:
Depends on the set up, I find 32-20 rims are too thick so no matter how short brass is, they don't work in any of my revolvers unless modified. too much work. I just use Russian nagant cases. Length wise you can trim as much as you want as the rim is your headspace. as long as they fit in the mag and chamber and case can hold your projectile you should be good to go.
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So, throw them in the recycle bucket. There; now I know...thanks for the reply.
 
Just bumping this up as I started reloading for this caliber recently.

Bought a few hundred pieces of Starline 32-20 nickel cases. Cut a bunch of them to 23mm, resized through a 30 carbine die. I have a few different bullet options. I was wondering if using hard cast, dry lubed bullets would work ok or should I stick to the soft led wax lubed types? If using hard cast, would the same load info as the jacketed bullets apply?

Also, if I am going to be using wadcutter bullets, is it better to keep the 32-20 cases full length and only resize them?

I plan on using Ginex primers and titegroup powder. I haven't seen any loads with this powder. I'm assuming that starting with 32 S&W long loads should get me started in the right direction?

Cheers!
 
jhnvan said:
Just bumping this up as I started reloading for this caliber recently.

Bought a few hundred pieces of Starline 32-20 nickel cases. Cut a bunch of them to 23mm, resized through a 30 carbine die. I have a few different bullet options. I was wondering if using hard cast, dry lubed bullets would work ok or should I stick to the soft led wax lubed types? If using hard cast, would the same load info as the jacketed bullets apply?

Also, if I am going to be using wadcutter bullets, is it better to keep the 32-20 cases full length and only resize them?

I plan on using Ginex primers and titegroup powder. I haven't seen any loads with this powder. I'm assuming that starting with 32 S&W long loads should get me started in the right direction?

Cheers!
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It’s not a bad idea to leave the cases full length
I might try that myself
It would look like a 7.62 Nagant case with a deep seated wadcutter
Personally I cut my cases down and seat the wadcutters a few mils out of the case to get a bit less pressure
 
I would have to double check but I'm pretty sure the 1892 has chambers cut with a shoulder at the end of the case like a modern revolver. I don't think over length cases will chamber.

Made up a batch with powder coated bullets and they wouldn't seat the last 0.010" because of the larger olgive. Had to seat them a hair deeper to clear the chamber transition.
 
vagrantviking said:
I would have to double check but I'm pretty sure the 1892 has chambers cut with a shoulder at the end of the case like a modern revolver. I don't think over length cases will chamber.

Made up a batch with powder coated bullets and they wouldn't seat the last 0.010" because of the larger olgive. Had to seat them a hair deeper to clear the chamber transition.
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This conversation is about the swiss 1882 chambered in the 7.5 swiss ordinance though. It has a slightly tapered straight wall chamber. The 1892 is the French revolver chambered in 8mm lebel....
 
jhnvan said:
This conversation is about the swiss 1882 chambered in the 7.5 swiss ordinance though. It has a slightly tapered straight wall chamber. The 1892 is the French revolver chambered in 8mm lebel....
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Crap. I stand corrected.
I've been messing with both and got my wires crossed.
The longer cases do work in the 7.5mm. I've left them untrimmed too. Trick with mine was 32-20 rims were just a hair too thick. Been meaning to try 7.62 Nagant brass.
 
My 1882 will chamber full length .32-20 after it has been resized to 7.5 Swiss dimensions
No issues with star line brass rims being too thick
I only messed around with uncut cases when I had some unsuitable .312 bullets.
I’m tempted to retry it now that I have some hollow based .314 wadcutters.
I think it’s an idea with merit.
I use titegroup and HP38 in the short cases but I’m not sure if the tiny powder charges are voluminous enough to work well with full length .32-20 cases
 
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