Mosin almost broke my collar bone

OkayShooter said:
Yeah that stuff hits.
Click to expand...
Didn't even sound the same as normal 150gr surplus, some kind of ridiculously slow powder used in that stuff, sounded like Tannerite when you let one off, just a deep base-like slow BOOOOM.... M44 would puke a flame about 8 feet out the muzzle, regular 91 would flash about 3-4ft, just punishing to shoot that #### lol.
Think it had a yellow tip, was a long time ago, sold the whole works just to get rid of it.
Only other #### I ever came across like that in other cartridges was some Greek 30-06 #### I got dirt cheap, was going to blow it through my Garand, fired one round and said nope, this #### will destroy the Garand, huge muzzle flash, retarded recoil, tore that #### apart for components.
 
Hitzy said:
Didn't even sound the same as normal 150gr surplus, some kind of ridiculously slow powder used in that stuff, sounded like Tannerite when you let one off, just a deep base-like slow BOOOOM.... M44 would puke a flame about 8 feet out the muzzle, regular 91 would flash about 3-4ft, just punishing to shoot that #### lol.
Think it had a yellow tip, was a long time ago, sold the whole works just to get rid of it.
Only other #### I ever came across like that in other cartridges was some Greek 30-06 #### I got dirt cheap, was going to blow it through my Garand, fired one round and said nope, this #### will destroy the Garand, huge muzzle flash, retarded recoil, tore that #### apart for components.
Click to expand...
Yellow tip, sounds like Hungary heavy ball. What I'm shooting in the video above.
 
took it for a spin again, that slip on really does help a lot, really enjoyed it today, i would say recoil was in the LE territory, still would like to correct the sights though, don’t like my grouping pulling to the right, and still got 2/3 at 200, i’m hoping to find some .311/.312 tomorrow and maybe find a better load then uncle Mao’s
 
rhino519 said:
took it for a spin again, that slip on really does help a lot, really enjoyed it today, i would say recoil was in the LE territory, still would like to correct the sights though, don’t like my grouping pulling to the right, and still got 2/3 at 200, i’m hoping to find some .311/.312 tomorrow and maybe find a better load then uncle Mao’s
Click to expand...
Do you have file and drill?

Could try and make a sight pusher. Something I made for ramp front sights. Ebay sells ones for mosins.
20241011_225009.jpg
 
Last edited:
mmattockx said:
A hammer and punch will help sort that if there is no sight tool available.


Mark
Click to expand...
Maybe, maybe not. While I doubt that this procedure is common, whenever I sighted in one of my flintlocks, I would tin the dovetail and sight with solder before installing the sights, then when it is shooting as it should, I would remove the barrel and hit the sights with a torch to sweat them in place permanently. No chance of a sight getting bumped out of position that way. Zero chance of moving those sights with a punch or any other tool without first heating it up to melt the solder.
 
There are many variables that can determine felt recoil OTHER than bullet weight and powder charcoal/type. Stock design is a significant contributor but also how the rifle is held, body position and body type also contribute. Big, heavy people feel more recoil than a small, slender shooter and some people are just more sensitive to it that others. Just like some people will be traumatized by receiving a shot from the doctor while others pay it no mind. Often, how one THINKS about it can have an affect on felt recoil. Most hunters, while feeling the kick of their favourite hunting rifle on the range won’t even notice ANY recoil when shooting at game because they are focused on the game and making the shot.
 
rhino519 said:
made something alike from a 2in clamp, i must be missing something on it cause it just keeps on sliding off as soon as i put any pressure on it
Click to expand...
They can require both hands. Assuming your pushing off the barrel on one side? Maybe grind a semi circle so sits against the barrel, than a flat.

Mine I made for ramp front sight base.
 
I keep hearing about Mosins kicking; but haven’t experienced that myself. I thought they were very mild in the recoil category. Like most small arms they are barely capable of bouncing on a sand-bag. That doesn’t mean it didn’t hurt; but it does mean you’re doing something wrong.


If the rifle hurt your collar bone; make sure it never hits your collar bone again when I was a skinny kid I used to come home covered with bruises from guns that didn’t kick. Someone or something I read told me to take my position at the bench and poke around on your shooting shoulder looking for a place that doesn’t have bone right to surface. For me that was far lower and farther in than I would have thought, but the ouch factor went away.

Here’s thought; consider holding onto the for-end with something resembling a firm grip. It will add much of the weight of your arm to the weight of the rifle, and goes a long way to making the recoil come straight back into your pre selected bone free pocket and out of your face as well. Save the short range benchrest techniques for guns that are suited for that, at least for now.
 
OkayShooter said:
Yeah but you never know how good of a solder job was done on the base. Then there are soo many sight mangled from punches.

Ebay you can get a sight pusher for mosins for under 40$ shipped.
Click to expand...
OK, I thought this part was obvious, but I guess not. When using a hammer and punch to adjust a front sight you need to support the sight base on a block, so you don't break it off the barrel. I agree, $40 for a sight pusher is very reasonable and is the better way to go.

rhino519 said:
tried it, either i’m too gentle or that sucker is really pinned well on
Click to expand...
They are typically very tight. Light taps seldom accomplish much from my experience.

Licensed to kill said:
Maybe, maybe not. While I doubt that this procedure is common, whenever I sighted in one of my flintlocks, I would tin the dovetail and sight with solder before installing the sights, then when it is shooting as it should, I would remove the barrel and hit the sights with a torch to sweat them in place permanently. No chance of a sight getting bumped out of position that way. Zero chance of moving those sights with a punch or any other tool without first heating it up to melt the solder.
Click to expand...
It's a Mosin and the sight shouldn't be soldered in place, but if it is then you are correct and OP won't be moving it anytime soon with a hammer.


Mark
 
rhino519 said:
or maybe it was just a awkward placement of the steel butt on my shoulder that hit the bone on an angle?
Click to expand...
Yup, good guess einstein. If the rifle butt is against bone then you messed up. No worries though - we learn faster when we hurt ourselves, pain is a very effective teaching aid. Everyone who has shot anything bigger than poodle cartridges has probably done something similar at some point.
 
You can only get the usual issue sights close for windage with a hammer and drift. I once made the mistake of not calling it done when The windage was one inch off the bull at 100 yards when zeroing with a hammer and drift. I wasted ten rounds bringing the windage back. I find it helps to have a vise with you to hold the barrel securely at the range. The better option is to use a front sight pusher as it takes care of the bounce or recoil from your hammer taps. Although you still might get only so close. . .

The king of sight pushers are those for the M1917 rifle or P14 rifle. The equivalent armourer's sight pusher for the SMLE #1 Mk III* requires the removal of the nosecap to do the zero.

The price of these original armourer tools is getting up there.

I read of claims there was always a shortage of P14 front sight pusher tools when the rifles were made so the default workaround was the hammer and drift method.

There are modern analogs out there with more dooable pricing.
 
Last edited:
The widely available Soviet sight pushers are excellent and well worth owning. They are calibrated and allow for easy adjustment. If you're going to use a drift, clamp the muzzle firmly between two pieces of brass in a solid vice. Calculate the amount of drifting necessary to zero it to avoid wasting ammo.

milsurpo
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom