Absolutely beautiful, well done! Did you use the reaction rod to assemble it or another tool/method?
I used a home made hardwood jig that pinches the top and bottom flat surfaces and not a RR. It is recommended not to over tighten the vise.
Observations:
1. I found a little looseness between the receiver and “lower metal”.
2. I did not loctite the charging handle which did not loosen after a few hundred rounds.(be careful not to lose the two solid dowel pins.
3. The rifle does have more felt recoil then a DI rifle. (In the 7.62x39)
4. The gas port clamp is much smaller then any gas block. Good addition to the set.
5. The break down pins are tight on the detent’s. I’m switching to stainless steel detents for wear.
6. Lots of oil or small amounts of grease (manual suggestion)is necessary.
7. No dirt in the receiver from the cartridge so cleaning will be far less frequent.
8. The charging handle makes contact with the reciprocating opening and will remove the finish.
9. The receiver is dimensionally thicker then forged AR sets so some handguard timing tabs will not allow a fit unless you are up to minor hand-guard modifications. This MI locking nut tab needed the two wings removed with a dremel tool. I was going to use a Diamondhead but the tabs are on the hanguard itself and I did not want to alter such a nice piece.
Suggestions:
1. use a silent capture spring instead of buffer and spring if you want to avoid the annoying assembly and dissembling. I purchased the Armaspec.
2. Quick or easy pull pins will get in the way of an Ambi safety.
3. A2 stocks appear to have clearance issues with the retaining ring. The Renegade has a proprietary locking ring and the “lower metal” has a QD mount machined in the bottom of the castle nut, ring and buffer area.
4. No limp wrist cycling or you will get into FTF and FTE situations.
5. Slim line and not quick detached scope mounts are recommended so you do not skin your knuckles during cycling (check #4)
