Muzzle brake

badger thruster brake here...3 gills...simple, extremely effective on my savage 10 308...feels like a frigging 22...im not kidding, then again, my rifle is heavy as heck and its not lound at all....however, it was not very friendly to my range buddy shooting prone next to me...hard to concencrate with the concussion waves, but its expected...its not very loud either, really felt like a normal 308 to me, didint need any additional hearing protection...casey brower from tacord stocks them
 
Rich @ spartan precision made these for me, 5/8x24, 1.3xx OD

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Several year back I had a change talking to Rich, seem very nice guy,that when with alberta tectica.
 
Personally I wouldn't bother with a brake on a 308 unless you are just going to be shooting at the range all the time. Brakes make them really loud for the shooter and those around you and the 308 doesn't really kick enough to need a brake.

If you must have one then give Tier One Armory in Edmonton a call and they can help you out. They have some nice 30 cal brakes in stock.
 
Just got my APA Fat Bastard installed on my .338LM, going to test it tomorrow.








Should be massively better than the factory 360 degree ported brake.



That bugger used to dig deep holes in the ground in search of ever more crap to whip into your face.
 
Just got my APA Fat Bastard installed on my .338LM, going to test it tomorrow.

Should be massively better than the factory 360 degree ported brake.

That bugger used to dig deep holes in the ground in search of ever more crap to whip into your face.


That new brake looks great. Should be very effective.
You might want to try a set of medium height rings (high if that is a 56mm obj) instead of the one piece mount and get that scope down closer to the barrel, you might be able to get rid of the slip on cheek rest. Is that a 20 or 30moa rail? Which reticle is in your NF? I have a x56 with RP-R2 and high speed turrets with zero-stop on my 338L, love it.
I used to have a 700P in 338 Lapua and the first time I shot it prone I learned the hard way that the stock brake had a serious deficiency. Sold the rifle before I had a chance to change the brake. Glad to see Remington realized they needed to change it as the new ones have a better design.
My DTA SRS that replaced the Remington has a much better brake and doesn't kick dirt in your face.
 
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I have made many lathe-turned brakes. The closer the bore size of the brake is to the diameter of the bullet, the more effective the brake will be. A brake negates the "jet-engine" effect of the expanding gasses by re-routing those gasses sideways. The lesser amount of those gasses that can bleed past the bullet, the more effective the brake will be.
Herein lies the problem. For a brake to be really effective, like a previous poster mentioned, where you can see the bullet hit the target, the clearance through the brake around the bullet must be only about .015". That is not a lot of clearance. In order to ensure alignment with the bore of the barrel, the brake should be lathe turned, and threaded in a lathe. The barrel must be threaded in a lathe in order to be concentric with the bore of the barrel. This lathe work takes set up time and manual lathe work is expensive. The better brakes are hand fitted as mentioned and are subsequently more expensive.

Slip on brakes or brakes that are made to be screwed on by the owner are bored oversize in order to compensate for misaligned barrel threads or any other results of the bubbas among us. These types of brakes will be effective, just not as much as a custom-fitted brake.

I have experimented for 20+ years with brakes. There are no quiet muzzle brakes. Anyone who says their muzzle brake is quiet is probably already deaf. Brakes significantly reduce felt recoil. They are painfully noisy. I mean really noisy. Wear muffs over plugs. See if someone will let you try a braked rifle so you can see for yourself.
 
I have experimented for 20+ years with brakes. There are no quiet muzzle brakes. Anyone who says their muzzle brake is quiet is probably already deaf. Brakes significantly reduce felt recoil. They are painfully noisy. I mean really noisy. Wear muffs over plugs. See if someone will let you try a braked rifle so you can see for yourself.




this part really depends on the brake design, i agree that the more effective the brake, the louder it is, BUT depending on the port shape and design, some brakes can be perceived as less noisy to the shooter then others. Being beside the rifle is never fun...

also barrel length, powder used and charge weight, effect the dB levels .


not trying to nit pick at technical details, just add some more information into the subect of loud vs quiet brakes
 
this part really depends on the brake design, i agree that the more effective the brake, the louder it is, BUT depending on the port shape and design, some brakes can be perceived as less noisy to the shooter then others. Being beside the rifle is never fun...

also barrel length, powder used and charge weight, effect the dB levels .


not trying to nit pick at technical details, just add some more information into the subect of loud vs quiet brakes

Agreed, and this is especially true the bigger the caliber you are firing.

Brakes like the HS-50's massive brick sized brake are effective, but pummel the shooter with a massive blast wave, and also cover him is crap when shooting prone, but gill style brakes like Alberta Tactical's are equally effective, but don't kick up stuff nearly as much, nor do they send the concussion right at the shooter.


Being beside the rifle you will likely hear the same noise regardless.
 
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