My Enfield and its many issues.

Sir Plus said:
This is what happens when somebody puts a bunch of parts together in 20 minutes to "desporterize" an Enfield.
Lee Enfields are complicated and finicky and need to be put together by someone who knows what they are doing. Not everyone who says they can can actually do it right.
If you want to save this gun there is a knowledgeable CGNer who can do it right at a reasonable price. But if the bore is horrible it may be better to sell it with disclaimers.
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As per many previous posters and above as an on point summary, Lee-Enfields are cool, fun, fast-locking rifles to play with. However, they are finicky and (these days) expensive to work on.
Want a reliable, easy, good shooting rifle? Just about any modern bolt gun will be better and cheaper. Want a historically significant wall-hanger and casual shooter, get a Lee-Enfield.

Nowadays, I only own one for a bit of nostalgia and not much else.
 
The upper handguard with the socket is from a 1941 Long Branch. The handguard has seen better days.

The heavy upper band is from a later 41 or 42 LB.

Either way, they are fine to use.

As was pointed out, you have to get the screw to thread in properly.

Sometimes you have to protect the band (leather? tape?) and clamp it with a C clamp or similar so you can get the screw started properly.
As was said, you should thread the screw in from the other side to get the hole threaded properly, if the threads are buggered and cross threaded.

Looks like the front sight was filed down quite a bit?

Worn bore or maybe it's because you're using US commercial ammo. ??

Try the muzzle test with a Canadian or Brit cartridge? If it still fails...that sucks.

Some have used oversized cast bullets to keep a bore like that in service.

No point really in buying a hinged band.

Regarding the safety...try swapping out the cocking piece on the bolt for another one. (LB marked) You'll need a firing pin tool.
Swapping the safety with a known good one will work too. It's one of the 2 items, safety or cocking piece.

Glad you know about the safety timing.
 
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As for the poorly indexed barrel...If that issue is combined with worn out...might be time to source another barrel from one with a drilled and tapped receiver or similar.

Maybe you could get Jason in Ottawa to do a bbl swap if you can find a good one.
 
Potashminer said:
I looked again at your picture - I do not have one in hand, but I think the hand guard with the hinged front band, had a groove in the wood - yours looks as if that groove has had a piece of wood installed in that groove. Might want to look on the inside to see if there is evidence that those 4 rivets have been removed at one time - to allow an insert to be placed in what I think should be a groove?? The hinged front band will have a hinge that needs a place to go within the wood, in order to fit tight around the hand guard?
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Ive update the library, you can see the fore stock cleary, looks original but Im far from being an expert on the subject.
 
Sir Plus said:
This is what happens when somebody puts a bunch of parts together in 20 minutes to "desporterize" an Enfield.
Lee Enfields are complicated and finicky and need to be put together by someone who knows what they are doing. Not everyone who says they can can actually do it right.
If you want to save this gun there is a knowledgeable CGNer who can do it right at a reasonable price. But if the bore is horrible it may be better to sell it with disclaimers.
Click to expand...

I gotta try it first. Might be a decent shooter.
 
cantom said:
The upper handguard with the socket is from a 1941 Long Branch. The handguard has seen better days.

The heavy upper band is from a later 41 or 42 LB.

Either way, they are fine to use.

As was pointed out, you have to get the screw to thread in properly.

Sometimes you have to protect the band (leather? tape?) and clamp it with a C clamp or similar so you can get the screw started properly.
As was said, you should thread the screw in from the other side to get the hole threaded properly, if the threads are buggered and cross threaded.

Looks like the front sight was filed down quite a bit?

Worn bore or maybe it's because you're using US commercial ammo. ??

Try the muzzle test with a Canadian or Brit cartridge? If it still fails...that sucks.

Some have used oversized cast bullets to keep a bore like that in service.

No point really in buying a hinged band.

Regarding the safety...try swapping out the cocking piece on the bolt for another one. (LB marked) You'll need a firing pin tool.
Swapping the safety with a known good one will work too. It's one of the 2 items, safety or cocking piece.

Glad you know about the safety timing.
Click to expand...

Ive try to thread from the outside but wont go, and if I try harder I might just snap the screw. Ive order an orignal hinge band with a screw that should fit my handguard. So that should fix that issue.

Im curious on how youre able to tell the year of the band?

I dont think it the sight was file down, everything is still dark, maybe some illusion cause by the flash.

Didnt shoot it yet. So I could not tell. Whats the difference between us and brit cartridge? the bullet diammeter? What is a Can or brit brand that I should try?

Yet for the safety that a headscratcher. Ive edit my first comment and put a youtube link of my issue for you to see. Also updated the pictures folder so yon can see the safety catch inside the reciever on both position. Might give you a clue.
 
Jesus.C said:
Ive try to thread from the outside but wont go, and if I try harder I might just snap the screw. Ive order an orignal hinge band with a screw that should fit my handguard. So that should fix that issue.

.
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The screw is a british thread, but I have used a north American tap to chase the threads and never had a problem. Can't recall if they are 8-32 or 10-32. I'll check when I get home tonight.
There were production changes throughout the life of the LB Enfield. 5 groove barrels changed to 2 groove barrels, and then later back to 5 groove. Post war there was even a further change when they started using Bren barrel machinery to make Enfield barrels. Wood, sights, band design (hinged followed by machined followed by fabricated), safety design, and others. To the purist, you want the appropriate part for the year. Your hinged band and low cut wood would only be for a very early LB.
And after you get the right parts onto it, and then determine if you need to change the barrel, there are other quality control items that need to be done, especially if it was a put-together. Is the barrel resting on the wood with 2 to 7 pounds of pressure? Is the king screw spacer sized properly, then staked into place? Headspacing? How about getting that safety to work properly? Or indexing that barrel properly?

A simple way to check the barrel indexing is to lay the barrel on a table with the butt over the edge so the rifle is laying as it would be when shot. Put a short steel rule across the bridge of the rifle, or even on top of the sight assembly, and another across the flat of the barrel (top wood off) , or better yet, across the top of the front sight base. Look from the back and the two rulers should be on the same plane. If it is out even a couple degrees, it will be obvious.
 
stencollector said:
The screw is a british thread, but I have used a north American tap to chase the threads and never had a problem. Can't recall if they are 8-32 or 10-32. I'll check when I get home tonight.
There were production changes throughout the life of the LB Enfield. 5 groove barrels changed to 2 groove barrels, and then later back to 5 groove. Post war there was even a further change when they started using Bren barrel machinery to make Enfield barrels. Wood, sights, band design (hinged followed by machined followed by fabricated), safety design, and others. To the purist, you want the appropriate part for the year. Your hinged band and low cut wood would only be for a very early LB.
And after you get the right parts onto it, and then determine if you need to change the barrel, there are other quality control items that need to be done, especially if it was a put-together. Is the barrel resting on the wood with 2 to 7 pounds of pressure? Is the king screw spacer sized properly, then staked into place? Headspacing? How about getting that safety to work properly? Or indexing that barrel properly?

A simple way to check the barrel indexing is to lay the barrel on a table with the butt over the edge so the rifle is laying as it would be when shot. Put a short steel rule across the bridge of the rifle, or even on top of the sight assembly, and another across the flat of the barrel (top wood off) , or better yet, across the top of the front sight base. Look from the back and the two rulers should be on the same plane. If it is out even a couple degrees, it will be obvious.
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Thank you for the good advice. Ive try using a 10-32 tap and it did fix the screw thread. Many thanks. Right now im considering swapping the barrel.
 
Barrel swapping on an Enfield is not something done on a bench vice with a pipe wrench. Well, actually,many have tried it that way, and the results are never pretty. There are receiver wrenches available commercially, but I have found those lacking. The one from Brownells will shear the king screw stud if it slips at all. I had a friend make me one up to an older drawing, and it works well. I also made up a barrel vise that goes into the press. Too many barrel vices allow the barrel to slip, rounding off one edge of the flat.
LongBranch barrels are usually tight...some incredibly tight.

Had a look at your photo of the back of the bolt handle. It has had the serial number ground off...another sign of a mix master.
 
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I will echo stencollector - like 48" snipe on the receiver wrench tight!! And 300 pound guy pushing his feet off the floor / jumping on it to break it loose - VERY tight!!! So barrel vice has to hold against that without turning or marring that barrel, nor can the receiver wrench, either ...
 
Jesus.C said:
I gotta try it first. Might be a decent shooter.
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I’ve got a sporterized ‘43 LB with a two groove barrel and it shoots S&B 150gr sp and Federal blue box 180gr sp really accurately, I’ve never slugged the bore but if you can find any of these ammo brands give them a shot. PPU 174gr fmj’s shoot well also, same poa/poi as the 180g Federal power shok’s.
 
No 4 receivers and barrels need to be separated and assembled with extreme care.

Not all of them are extremely tight, but when they are, even with a proper receiver wrench and barrel clamp, you can end up with a twisted mess.

No4 receivers aren't as heavy as most other bolt actions and to top it off, there aren't any internal lugs to apply torque to.

If you have a barreled receiver with a poor bore and want to remove it, with proper tools, the first thing I would do is make a relief cut on the reinforce appx 1/16 inch in front of the receiver.

This will relieve the "crush" imposed between the tenon shoulder and the face of the receiver and makes it much easier to take off, without doing any damage. The last barrel I pulled from a No4 had shims between the barrel and receiver faces. I had read about them but this is the first one I've come across. This was on a 44 date Savage. Maybe a wartime expedient thing?? Couldn't see them until the barrel was taken off.

The barrel clamp needs to be as close to the reinforce as possible. Better yet, one that's been purposely profiled to clamp on the reinforce, with a flat spot for the knox. You will need to use brass shim stock to stop the clamp from slipping or some good rosin. Same with the receiver clamp. It needs to be properly profiled to fit the receiver, with an inlet for the king screw pedestal.

It's important that the bottom portion clamp doesn't allow the the receiver to move and to cover the WHOLE BOTTOM of the front receiver flat. The upper portion of the clamp should be drilled just very slightly larger than the round portion of the upper ring. There should be just enough clearance for a brass shim. The top and bottom portion of the clamps needs to be able to be tightened, with a bolt at each end. You can weld a handle to either side, but the top is preferable.

Go onto YouTube, there are several videos showing how to remove and replace a barrel on a No4 receiver
 
Hi Jes. The problem is not the relationship between the barrel and the body - the foresight block is slightly canted off centre. A common
problem. You can see this problem better if you put a straight edge on top of the knox and look at the top of the block. The easy fix is to adjust by a blow with a brass drift and hammer to proper position. You say the sight guard is crooked so the guard has received a blow at some time causing the foresight block to cant. You can see when the top edge of the straight edge is parallel to the top edge of the block. If there are no rubbings or tool marks on the front of the body or the barrel then the body is arsenal fitted to that barrel. Since you need expensive tooling to remove #4 barrels not too many people do it . JOHN
 
When I was hanging out with Bevan King before he passed away ,he never had any trouble removing lee enfield barrels or the 14/17 either
In some peoples eyes it was kind of barbaric how he loosened them ,but he always got them off with his method
He made an aluminum set adaptors that would go over the round part on the top of the receiver and a flat with a divot cut out on bottom and work with his action wrench
He would clamp the barrel into his barrel vise and attach the action wrench to the receiver and would be in the 9 o'clock position ,then go and get his axe from beside the shop stove and whack the end of the extension handle of the action wrench and they popped loose he seldom had to hit it twice

He said that the wrench on the action had to be tight but not too tight to the compress the action on the barrel threads .He used this method on the enfield 14and 17 too

I now have the vise and the action wrench and it shows many marks from his work
Cheers Peter
 
Y'gotta keep in mind you're dealing with a 75 year old rifle that may or may not have been taken care of.
 
jtaylor said:
Hi Jes. The problem is not the relationship between the barrel and the body - the foresight block is slightly canted off centre. A common
problem. You can see this problem better if you put a straight edge on top of the knox and look at the top of the block. The easy fix is to adjust by a blow with a brass drift and hammer to proper position. You say the sight guard is crooked so the guard has received a blow at some time causing the foresight block to cant. You can see when the top edge of the straight edge is parallel to the top edge of the block. If there are no rubbings or tool marks on the front of the body or the barrel then the body is arsenal fitted to that barrel. Since you need expensive tooling to remove #4 barrels not too many people do it . JOHN
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Thanks Jonh for the good advide. I will definetly try that.
 
bearhunter said:
No 4 receivers and barrels need to be separated and assembled with extreme care.

Not all of them are extremely tight, but when they are, even with a proper receiver wrench and barrel clamp, you can end up with a twisted mess.

No4 receivers aren't as heavy as most other bolt actions and to top it off, there aren't any internal lugs to apply torque to.

If you have a barreled receiver with a poor bore and want to remove it, with proper tools, the first thing I would do is make a relief cut on the reinforce appx 1/16 inch in front of the receiver.

This will relieve the "crush" imposed between the tenon shoulder and the face of the receiver and makes it much easier to take off, without doing any damage. The last barrel I pulled from a No4 had shims between the barrel and receiver faces. I had read about them but this is the first one I've come across. This was on a 44 date Savage. Maybe a wartime expedient thing?? Couldn't see them until the barrel was taken off.

The barrel clamp needs to be as close to the reinforce as possible. Better yet, one that's been purposely profiled to clamp on the reinforce, with a flat spot for the knox. You will need to use brass shim stock to stop the clamp from slipping or some good rosin. Same with the receiver clamp. It needs to be properly profiled to fit the receiver, with an inlet for the king screw pedestal.

It's important that the bottom portion clamp doesn't allow the the receiver to move and to cover the WHOLE BOTTOM of the front receiver flat. The upper portion of the clamp should be drilled just very slightly larger than the round portion of the upper ring. There should be just enough clearance for a brass shim. The top and bottom portion of the clamps needs to be able to be tightened, with a bolt at each end. You can weld a handle to either side, but the top is preferable.

Go onto YouTube, there are several videos showing how to remove and replace a barrel on a No4 receiver
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Thank you bear, As many pointed the enfield barrel is pretty hard to play with. At this point I rather have a professional look at it.
 
Just went to the range today. Not too disapointed. At about 75 meter I was grouping 15 shot in 8 inch. Mind you I was shooting a white target laying against a snowbank so. The mere fact that I can group make me happy.
 
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