My first reload

[MissNoone]

Good afternoon, fellow GunNutz,


I wanted to share my first reloading data with you.
Some of you might disagree with my approach, but after reviewing a lot of information, this is what I came up with.
Please feel free to ask questions before offering any criticism, as this is my first reload ever.
The photo attached shows 2 out of the 10 cartridges I made. I'm loading .300 Belted Win Mag.
I followed the Lyman Handbook, 51st edition, for my case preparation.
I prepped and trimmed all of my cases to 2.610 inches with a tolerance of ±0.0005 inches.
My overall length (COL) is 3.5835 inches with a tolerance of ±0.001 inches.
I know this is a bit longer than the SAAMI specification of 3.340 inches.
To achieve this length, I took a prepped casing and a bullet, gently inserted the bullet into the casing with a bit of blue Loctite, then inserted it into my rifle’s chamber. After slowly closing and locking the bolt, I waited a few minutes before ejecting it gently, which yielded a COL of 3.5835 inches.
I’m using Winchester brass from Herters-manufactured rounds that I purchased at a great price—$43 plus tax for 20 pieces.
I annealed all the casings for approximately 10 seconds. They were also de-primed, sized, ultrasonically cleaned, and the primer pockets were cleaned with RCBS SS brush primer pocket cleaner on the Frankfurt Arsenal Prep Station, chamfed and reamed.
I re-primed the cases with Remington 9½ Large Rifle Magnum primers.
The powder I used is Winchester Staball HD @60 grains +- 0.15gr, my scale was jumping or just would not display until an excessive amount of powder was applied or I had to pick up my tray and then put it down again. I'm considering getting a new one, as I’ve had my current scale for 15 years. I had to trickle the powder in, but it was challenging to get it to exactly 60 grains. I estimate that about 80-90% of the cartridges I reloaded this morning were at 59.995 grains, while the remainder were around 60.1 grains.
The projectile I'm using is a 180-grain Speer BTSP.
With this LOAD data, what do you all think is going to happen? Probably no boom booms in the face, but who knows.
Feel free to share your thoughts or any advice!

 

[freire]

How did you annealed your brass?

 

[scotteboy]

Very nice first go.
How did you choose 60gr for the charge?
I usually do 3-4 different charges so I can "work my way up" and see if there's pressure issues before I hit the top load.
I bought a hornady overall depth guage and modified case to get my col. Works like a hot damn

 

[Paul_T]

Your method for calculating depth to the lands is fine, but based on the (not insignificant) length compared to SAAMI you have a deep chamber - Tikka perhaps?

At that length, does your round fit in the magazine and feed properly?

You do not want to load right to the lands regardless. You will generate excessive pressure by doing that.
The 'generalization' would be to back off 20 thou from the final measurement then work out (or in if required). I would also repeat the measurement a few times and get an average.

You are overthinking the powder weights IMHO. 0.1 gr +/- is what you will get anyway

None of the 5 manuals I have here including the Lyman 51st have data for StaBall so I can't comment on your load. Even the Hodgdon reloading website has no load data for StaBall for the 300 Win Mag.

Reduce your load by 5% from published data and work up.

 

[9-ball]

You do not want to load right to the lands regardless. You will generate excessive pressure by doing that.
The 'generalization' would be to back off 20 thou from the final measurement then work out (or in if required). I would also repeat the measurement a few times and get an average.

As well if your in the field and unload a round, you can get the bullet pulling out and being stuck in the barrel, or just a mess of powder everywhere.

Also curious on where you got your powder charge from, I just checked and couldnt find one in my manuals.

 

[MissNoone]

How did you annealed your brass?

I use the ugly annealer.

Very nice first go.

Thanks.

How did you choose 60gr for the charge?

I use the Speer data, although it did not have HD powder on the list. It listed Winchester 760 which originally was listed at 61 Grains min and 65 to be the Max.

Your method for calculating depth to the lands is fine, but based on the (not insignificant) length compared to SAAMI you have a deep chamber - Tikka perhaps?

I have a Bergera B14 precision.

At that length, does your round fit in the magazine and feed properly?

Yes, they fit the mag and chamber without issues. I am at the max length I can go with just a little bit of space left .003

I would also repeat the measurement a few times and get an average.

I spent quite a few hours last night doing exactly that, measuring, measuring, and more measuring.

You are overthinking the powder weights IMHO. 0.1 gr +/- is what you will get anyway

as this was my first reload, I was trying to be very meticulous and accurate.

Reduce your load by 5% from published data and work up.

I'm below the 5%. as the data I was going off of was 61, and I dropped to the 60 because it was HD powder and if I understand it right, the HD it's slower burning, and will produce bit more pressure?

 

[9-ball]

I use the Speer data, although it did not have HD powder on the list. It listed Winchester 760 which originally was listed at 61 Grains min and 65 to be the Max.

Okay I am just going to say... please as a new reloader dont use any powders specifically not listed in your manuals. Not on the internet forums either, make sure its specifically listed in your manual, or online data like nosler reloading.

Your example... Win 760 is #126 on the burn chart, its no where near where winchester staball HD is at #165. There are many others in between like Reloader 26 coming in at #160.

The starting at least 5% lower is from max charge... did you know going below your minimum can also be disastrous? DONT GO BELOW MIN.

Its great your starting to reload, but please just pull these ones, buy some powder listed and go from there.
Dont start with a jammed bullet either...

 

[Paul_T]

Yes, they fit the mag and chamber without issues. I am at the max length I can go with just a little bit of space left .003

I would still be concerned you are at the lands for OAL. This is not a good idea. Back your OAL down by 0.020 to 3.563

As per my original comments and 9-ball's above, I would not be using unpublished powder loads to start off.

 

[Beeron]

Hiya,
FD, I stopped reading when your “jam” measurement matched your loaded COAL.

I suggest you Back that down at least about 3thou. (.003).

Then work back from there.

Was this retailer cabelas by any chance?

 

[9-ball]

I'm below the 5%. as the data I was going off of was 61, and I dropped to the 60 because it was HD powder and if I understand it right, the HD it's slower burning, and will produce bit more pressure?

No.

Faster powders burn faster and spike pressures faster.
Think Pistols, they have to ramp up and move a bullet to top speeds in a tiny barrel.
Vs your longer barrel 50 BMG, its a very slow burning powder to get that big bullet up to speeds, but it has a long barrel to do so.

IF you put a very fast burning powder in a 50 BMG, it will spike the pressure way too high before that big bullet can even move.

 

[scotteboy]

I have to say missnoone.
I agree with 9-ball. I'd pull those bullets and get a powder that's listed in that manual. If something goes wrong (too little powder, too much) you can't take it back. I wouldn't fak around.
My reload staples are:
.020-030" off lands to start
I do 3-4 progressive charges and always stop 1 grain below max untill I see if everything's ok. Then if I want more speed (of course I want more! lol) I'll do another ladder and move up in charge by .2 or .3grains.
take your time. It's all part of the process.
Cheers

 

[OkayShooter]

60 grn is at lease 10grn less than min for 150 and 190grn bullets with that powder.

If 150s max is 69.5grn, and 190s is min 74. Likely 180s 72.5 to 73 min.

 

[MissNoone]

Okay I am just going to say... please as a new reloader dont use any powders specifically not listed in your manuals. Not on the internet forums either, make sure its specifically listed in your manual, or online data like nosler reloading.

Your example... Win 760 is #126 on the burn chart, its no where near where winchester staball HD is at #165. There are many others in between like Reloader 26 coming in at #160.

The starting at least 5% lower is from max charge... did you know going below your minimum can also be disastrous? DONT GO BELOW MIN.

Its great your starting to reload, but please just pull these ones, buy some powder listed and go from there.
Dont start with a jammed bullet either...

From what I've been told, the HD powder is a newer powder, and that's why some of the data that I've been looking at does not have it. It was also recommended by the retailer to pick up this powder, and hence I did. I was also suggested If I could not find data, i could match the weight of the bullet and its construction and then start at the lowest amount of powder needed IE the minimum and work up from there.
Unfortunately, there's so much information out there, and even looking at books No one book seems to agree with each other, which even makes it harder to get all this sht straight lol.

I did make a typo earlier as my maximum powder was 65 grains (not 61), and the minimum is 61, and 5 percent of that would be -3.2gr and with what i loaded still puts me lower than the 5 percent Mark. I can pull them add an extra 1grain so I'm at 61gr, since I put 60gr in, then reseat with the additional depth that is being suggested here.

 

[9-ball]

Your off on your loads all together, both COAL and charge.
Just pull them and restart using a different bullet suited for the HD powder or a different powder.

 

[MissNoone]

Your off on your loads all together, both COAL and charge.
Just pull them and restart using a different bullet suited for the HD powder or a different powder.

Everything I purchased was suggested by the retailer. Maybe I had a retail that was not as informed as they should have been before giving advice. I'll have to reevaluate who I speak to moving forward.

Also should I not be measuring from the ogive instead of my COL? if I'm understanding this Right, the ogive is what's going to hit the lands first?

 

[9-ball]

Reloading is great.
But keep it simple to start with, use the book info, or like I said, look up Hodgdon reloading data online, nosler online...

When starting out, dont anneal, this is an art in itself.
Follow the book, follow the book...
Use the COAL provided, primers etc...

When you fully understand everything then start to branch out and play with the COAL, when you know what to look for in pressure changes, velocity changes, accuracy changes.

 

[9-ball]

Everything I purchased was suggested by the retailer. Maybe I had a retail that was not as informed as they should have been before giving advice. I'll have to reevaluate who I speak to moving forward.

Who's face is by the action when the trigger is pulled?
I dont need to know who you talked to but we can all share horror stories of people behind the counter.

Dont follow internet forum pet loads, you can look up to see what powders or components are suggested, but ALWAYS follow manufacturer data.

Books will have slighly different loads for min an max. A few things here, sometimes different primers are used, different brass, different bullets even though they are the same weight (mono, lead, jacket). This does affect it.
Thats how you get the minus 5% rule.

 

[OkayShooter]

The burn rates aint even close. 760 is 126 and StaBALL is 165. Higher the number slower it is.

H1000 is 161 and min load for 180s is 72.4

Im not saying use that. Just slowing you, the data you followed, is way off.

Some ball powders dont like to be loaded under min.

 

[OkayShooter]

I dont need to know who you talked to but we can all share horror stories of people behind the counter.

Was his name Sunray?

 

[jcpal]

You need to start over and find a reloading manual and follow it , you say you have no data for that powder and that cartridge so there for you shouldn’t use it period . Read the manual find a powder that is listed in that cartridge and than go buy it . You are also doing way too much start basic no need to anneal or play to much with seating depth yet just follow the manual and go from there