My latest antique :)

Do you find the toilet paper is necessary to ensure the load is not positionally sensitive? If so, I have lots of Kapok for my BP guns and it might work even better.
 
Do you find the toilet paper is necessary to ensure the load is not positionally sensitive? If so, I have lots of Kapok for my BP guns and it might work even better.

It makes a huge difference, about 200 ft/sec when I last chronied a load with and without TP. Plus it's always an interesting conversation piece with folks who first see TP flying out of my guns :) I tell em it keeps my barrel clean. :p
 
Single or double ply? Quilted? So many factors, it boggles the mind!
Imagine shooting one of those Bears on the Charmin commercials. Delicious irony.

Claven, that is a work of art. I've been mulling some sort of project like this for a while, but no longer. I'm going to go for it, so either curse you or thank you, time will tell...
Unfortunately, it means a barrage of newb questions are on the way.
I'm looking at the Rolling Blocks from Trade Ex. Of the two Cals, is one prefered over the other if you're looking to rebarrel in 45/70?
Who did you get to do the barrel work?
 
If your looking at trad ex's rollers I would consider the 12.7 x 44 guns as they already are prescribed antiques by caliber and have the potential for 50/70 roller conversion. Otherwise have a look at gunbroker sometimes nice Remingtons in native 50/70 or 45/70 show up for not too bad price or even sometimes less popular rollers in .43 Spanish or .43 Egyptian go inexpensively.
 
Others may feel differently, but I would get a registered 8x58RD roller from Tradex. I got a Carl Gustafs one as the Euro-make seemed kinda cool, but Remington made actions are also available from time to time.

The reason I suggest this over the 12.7 cal guns is twofold:

1) The 8x58RD guns were completely rebuilt in the 1890's. At that time, they got new hardened hammer and block fitted which are made of much better steel than the older 12.7 parts and the extractor system was changed to the latest Remington model of the day - an important improvement. They also improved the loaded chamber indicator.

2) The 8mm guns were also carburized and re-hardened so they are theoretically capable of withstanding more pressure than the earlier guns. When you get your action colour cased, they anneal it first so you will have a newly hardened receiver no matter which you build on, but the later actions in 8mm should have more carbon in the outer layers of the steel and should end up harder than a 12.7 gun.

In either case, as soon as the larger calibre barrel is installed, it can be de-registered so I don't see that as an obstacle.

As for barrel work, mine was done by Jason Spencer at Gunco in Ottawa - contact info above. Jason has built at least 6 or 8 of similar high-end custom guns on Tradex rolling block over the last couple years, so I'd say he's as experienced as anyone. Not to mention the many other RB's he's repaired, worked on or done simple re-barrel jobs to.
 
ok, settled on a starting load and made up a bunch of rounds tonight. Going to go with the Lee 405gr bullet that actually casts at 415gr using wheel weight (which I did) and lubed with Alox. 28.0gr of H4198 with a TP filler in Winchester brass and Federal match primers.

Hopefully it performs reasonably well in this rifle.
 
What's the total cost of the gunsmithing if you don't mind my asking? That is if you weren't to scared to add it all up lol.

I was thinking of picking up an old stevens visible loader for my gf for christmas and having it redone. New case colour fancy wood and a new bluing job. I know its not the same as such a rifle as you have but I'd hope the results could look as well done. And your gun does look first class thanks for showing it
 
Wow... OK, I'm not sure I kept track of all the costs... It's been almost 4 years, but here's a fair approximation, not including any taxes or shipping:

Receiver: about $350
Barrel: About $350
Barrel threading, chambering, indexing, install: $200
TIG welding the swivel holes up in the trigger guard: $30
Metal prep on the action: $200
Buttplate: $50
Metal prep on the blued parts: $100
Blueing or barrel and small parts: $150
stock blank: $600
Stock maker and checkering: $900
Color Case hardening: $250
3X malcolm scope with large calibre ring lock: $300
Metal work on scope mounts to get rid of ugly casting lines: $50
D&T for mounts: $30
Soule sight (not pictured): $300
Beech front sight (not pictured): $120

Wow... so that's somewhere around $3980 or so. No wonder I never did the math before now.
 
Wow... so that's somewhere around $3980 or so. No wonder I never did the math before now.

Not an unreasonable amount for an exceptionally fine rifle.

That said I feel like a bandit when I picked my rolling block at mere pittance from a fellow member who had his project roller 90% finished. It just required finish on the new walnut furniture and bluing. I finished the woodwork and left the remainder of the finish for the time being as I frequently hunt with it. Now you have me wondering about completing the metal work so it can look purdy as well. ;)
 
You have to file out any imperfections and then draw-sand to at least 400 grit without losing any of the crisp edges or giving the receiver a melted look. Buffing wheels are definitely NOT OK if you want a professional looking job.
 
Believe it or not, this build has been almost 4 years in the making. I got a bit done here and there over time - getting the stock made took the longest. I used a top maker but he took 2 years to get it done (not because it takes 2 years but because he was very backed up with work). The blanks for butt and forestock were from a $600 piece of full fiddleback extra fancy english walnut aged 25 years. Barrel is 31" octagonal. Case hardening was done by Oskar Kob. and all metal work was done by Jason Spencer.

I think it turned out rather nice. It is D&T for a soule-type sight, which I do have. It's also got a stnadard dovetail for a front sight, but I haven't decided what to use for that yet...? Hopefully something period looking and removable or folding so as not to interfere with the 3X malcolm scope.

Antique made in 1872, cal .45-70.


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Fantastic bubba job! :eek: All kidding aside, every one who worked on this rifle are truly a master of their profession. And good to know that our local Jason Spencer was involved. Did Jason do the but plate?

Now, I don't know what the baby weights but don't retach a retina with it!;)
 
Wow... OK, I'm not sure I kept track of all the costs... It's been almost 4 years, but here's a fair approximation, not including any taxes or shipping:

Receiver: about $350
Barrel: About $350
Barrel threading, chambering, indexing, install: $200
TIG welding the swivel holes up in the trigger guard: $30
Metal prep on the action: $200
Buttplate: $50
Metal prep on the blued parts: $100
Blueing or barrel and small parts: $150
stock blank: $600
Stock maker and checkering: $900
Color Case hardening: $250
3X malcolm scope with large calibre ring lock: $300
Metal work on scope mounts to get rid of ugly casting lines: $50
D&T for mounts: $30
Soule sight (not pictured): $300
Beech front sight (not pictured): $120

Wow... so that's somewhere around $3980 or so. No wonder I never did the math before now.

I had a custom rifle built for me about ten years ago & stopped counting or waiting on missed estimates of completion. When it was finally finished, it served to shoot over a dozen deer through the years. I'm not that good of a hunter, but it is definitely my lucky charm... I'd never sell it & if no one hunts in the family when I kick, they can bury me with it!
 
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