My M1A1 carbine build :)

Claven2

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This started out as an M1 Carbine I got off the EE. It had a mix-mash of parts, some of which were not USGI (commercial barrel band and front sight), and it had a 19" sleeved-type non-restricted barrel on it. These are USGI barrel stubs that are soldered and pinned to another barrel - kind of a "poor man's" barrel job. They work OK, but are not as nice as a new, purpose-made Criterion. I also wondered about the long term performance and headspace issues if the insert migrates forward after many rounds.

Although it was working well enough when I got it, I wanted to improve it. I had a few Quality Hardware parts in the spares bin and I was able to order a new-old-stock QH bolt from an Italian seller. In the end, this is what I ended up with. Technically, M1A1 rifles were all either Inland or Winchester (very few Winchesters) when they left the factory, but in service and during rebuilds, it was not uncommon to drop another barrelled action into an M1A1 stock, as they are all interchangeable.

Receiver: QH, it was blued when I got it, so I suspect Bundeswehr use. Note that all QH's are spring-tube receivers.
Front sight: milled QH
Barrel Band: late mfgr QH
Trigger housing: QH
Slide: QH
Mag release: Inland
Hammer: SW
Sear: SW
Trigger: QH
Safety: smooth Type 2 button, QH
Rear sight: Milled Inland
Barrel: new 18.75" Criterion
Stock: Pedersoli M1A1 repro

In the end, I'm very happy with it - though it was too expensive - and being left-handed, it's a little less comfortable than a standard wood stock. Very handy though. Nick at Vulcan provided the new barrel, reamed to headspace, and freshly parkerized everything to match.

I also had to replace the reproduction hook portion and retaining bolt of the stock hinge with USGI parts so that the action would not be "sprung" in the repro stock, a common problem with the repro M1A1 wood. If anyone's looking for one of these stocks, be aware some fitting is required. I had to fit the band spring to latch into my barrel band (you need diamond files to cut into the spring steel), I had to shorten the front handguard to be a tight fit between the barrel band and the front of the receiver. I also had to slightly inlet the wood under the rear of the receiver to allow the action to fully seat.

Note that with the 18.75" barrel, I come in at about 26,1/8" OAL folded. In other words, JUST legal for a Non-restricted rifle. The Auto-Ordnance clones have only 18.6" barrels and I'm not certain you can install this stock legally - it would be iffy. And besides, USGI = cool.




Receiver markings. You can kinda make out the QH marking, though it's a bit obscured by the rear sight. According to the guy who sold it to me (a fellow CGNer), the "3" on the receiver heel is supposedly a German post-war marking, but I've not seen it referenced anywhere. I didn't re-parkerize the rear sight. The finish on it was good enough.



Correct QH bolt. I left the internals blued. The bolt would originally have been blued too, but at refurb they were parked. A bayonet lug and milled sight would be correct for a refurb, so I had the bolt parked accordingly.




A flip safety would be more appropriate for a refurb, but I'm a lefty and I prefer the push-button safeties, so that's what I used. This one is a smooth, unmarked push-button that came out of another QH.



The rear sight is an Inland. As far as I know, only a few manufacturers made these sights late in the war, I don't think QH made them at all, so I used the Inland sight I had because I really like the milled rear sights.



The Quality Hardware bayonet lug assembly. I was lucky to find this one, most are either Inland-made or sub-contractor made. QH ones are a tough find. A buddy had it and swapped it to me for an inland in nice shape. This one had surface rust on it, but looks new after it was re-parked.



The sling is a post-war (Korean or Vietnam era) USGI unit. Very appropriate for a rebuilt M1A1.




Another item to note, ALL the repro M1A1 stock hand guards I've seen had poorly-installed aluminum hollow rivets. I had a spare cracked M1 carbine 4-rivet handguard, so I punched out the crappy aluminum hollow rivets and threw-away the poorly made blued steel retainer clip and replaced them with re-used original solid steel GI rivets and a GI parkerized retainer clip. HUGE improvement in looks.



If you've never handled or shot an M1A1, I strongly recommend looking for an opportunity. These rigs are just too handy to be believed. And when Non-restricted, it's hard to imagine a better bush carbine.
 
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Very nice, Sir.

I have a similar rig that I put together on an old mixmaster Underwood. I didn't bother refinishing as it had that nice greenish tinge to the park.

I don't recall having trouble fitting the front band spring or the action in the stock, but my stock is slightly different as it is for an M1 action, not cut out for an M2 like yours. I assume it is also Pedersoli, it is a beautiful piece of walnut and very well made overall. I believe there were some other repro stocks on the market but not as nice ?

I didn't like the upper handguard fit so I used the original 2 rivet GI one. The walnut was a perfect match for the repro stock.

I also fitted a post war sling and picked up a 1950s dated 30 shot magazine pouch to match.

It has to be the handiest little rifle I have ever owned.
 
Yeah, I'm not sure why these have the M2 cutout (?). I have an extra M1 carbine GI band spring here somewhere I could have replaced the repro one with and maybe it would not have needed fitting, but it was just as easy to fit this one and it works fine now :)
 
Yeah, I'm not sure why these have the M2 cutout (?). I have an extra M1 carbine GI band spring here somewhere I could have replaced the repro one with and maybe it would not have needed fitting, but it was just as easy to fit this one and it works fine now :)

I just took a quick look online at Sarco etc., and it seems the newer repros are M2 cut these days. Mine is about 15 years old, so maybe manufactured before the demand for M2 inletting. On my "to do" list has been to replace the cheap leather cheek pad and shiny rivets with some good russet leather and blackened brass rivets.

About 1990 I was at Beltring in the UK and saw an original M1A1 stock in one of the vendors stalls from Belgium. It was 100.00 pounds sterling....about 200.00 dollars...I thought it was too much money.....stupid,stupid,stupid....
 
Aparently not all originals are blackened brass, but you're right, none were chromed rivets like these repros. If I could find original-looking blued steel or brass rivets, I'd make the change. The leather itself on mine is pretty decent. If I linseed oiled it and let it dry stiffer, it would be a decent match to the originals.
 
Wonderful looking Carbine, I'm impressed with your details and the parts list used in this build. How does the criterion compare to GI barrel steel wise, in groove #'s, twist, lined?? etc.
 
Aparently not all originals are blackened brass, but you're right, none were chromed rivets like these repros. If I could find original-looking blued steel or brass rivets, I'd make the change. The leather itself on mine is pretty decent. If I linseed oiled it and let it dry stiffer, it would be a decent match to the originals.

Inland (The only manufacturer contracted to make M1A1's) simply used the brass brake rivets they were already manufacturing for automobiles when assembling the original M1A1 stocks.

I would look for this style of old automotive brass brake rivets if you wanted to make it look more authentic.



-Steve
 
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Mr. Claven 2

You have inspired me to get back to my M1A1 project.

I have ordered a box of the correct size brass brake lining rivets for the cheek pad.

I will send you some when they arrive, Merry Xmas !
 
Inland (The only manufacturer contracted to make M1A1's) simply used the brass brake rivets they were already manufacturing for automobiles when assembling the original M1A1 stocks.

I would look for this style of old automotive brass brake rivets if you wanted to make it look more authentic.



-Steve

Steve, everything I've read is that these are only on refurbs. Originals used parkerized steel rivets. I would absolutely use the brass rivets if I could find them, AND if I could fins someone with the correct rivet swage.
 
Mr. Claven 2

You have inspired me to get back to my M1A1 project.

I have ordered a box of the correct size brass brake lining rivets for the cheek pad.

I will send you some when they arrive, Merry Xmas !

Cool! Have you got access to a rotating rivet swage?
 
I have a small hand swage that I am pretty sure will work. Seeing as I have a box of 100 rivets coming, there will be plenty to practice....

Well if you get it working with the hand swage, I'd be willing to rent it! If I re-do mine, I'll take the opportunity to have it parkerized (vice blued) and will oil it in water-soluble oil. Then I'll boil the cheek pad before riveting it on so that it hardens a lot stiffer. Probably bake it in the oven on low to limit chance of rusting.

When wet leather dries, it hardens a little more with each drying. I suspect the originals started fairly flexible and their stiffness is indicative of field service.
 
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