My Sino-American Retro Nostalgia Project M-14(S)
- Thread starter Sporting Lad
- Start date
Sporting Lad
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
("Ja...")
Hey, CC--
As a matter of fact, I will be down in Saanich at the M-14 clinic on the 27th.
I hope to be there for some of Sat, but my VISA will be at home under lock and key... :0 |
I'll be the one wearing the black & gold cap that says:
"US ARMY ARMOR"
Hey, CC--
As a matter of fact, I will be down in Saanich at the M-14 clinic on the 27th.
I hope to be there for some of Sat, but my VISA will be at home under lock and key... :0 |
I'll be the one wearing the black & gold cap that says:
"US ARMY ARMOR"
Very interesting tread! Why didn't I have to read your very well written tread ? Now I got to buy a second m14 ti go with my shorty and to dress in a usgi stock.
What's your opinion on the bayonet lug on the shorty? I cut off mine to alow the removal of the gas piston. Also I don't believe that a bayonet fit o the shorty?
What's your opinion on the bayonet lug on the shorty? I cut off mine to alow the removal of the gas piston. Also I don't believe that a bayonet fit o the shorty?
Sporting Lad
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Hi, Guy!
My opinion of the bayonet lug is that I'm glad I still have one.
You didn't need to cut yours off to get the gas piston out:
1) Remove gas plug
2) Rotate gas lock (the figure eight-shaped ring thing that holds the gas tube)
counter-clockwise around ~40 degrees
3) Tilt your shorty (I'm talkin' about your M-14)...tilt your rifle forward until the piston shows itself
4) Grab piston between thumb and finger, wiggle & jiggle until it decides to come out on its own
It helps if you can get the piston's "flat spot" turned toward the bottom. Once it rattles out, that's it.
It's easy to put back in after cleaning.
Bayonet: I have an M-6 bayo for my rifle. It was made "usgi" for the M-14. It slides right on just as
it should, except for the last 5mm. I'm going to have to do some minor fitting mods to steal 5-6mm there.
I'm sorry you cut your bayo lug off but, if you weren't planning on affixing a bayonet anyway, then it is
now an easy way to access your piston.
One of these days I hope to post a pic of my M-14 c/w the bayonet affixed properly.
Cheers,
SL
My opinion of the bayonet lug is that I'm glad I still have one.
You didn't need to cut yours off to get the gas piston out:
1) Remove gas plug
2) Rotate gas lock (the figure eight-shaped ring thing that holds the gas tube)
counter-clockwise around ~40 degrees
3) Tilt your shorty (I'm talkin' about your M-14)...tilt your rifle forward until the piston shows itself
4) Grab piston between thumb and finger, wiggle & jiggle until it decides to come out on its own
It helps if you can get the piston's "flat spot" turned toward the bottom. Once it rattles out, that's it.
It's easy to put back in after cleaning.
Bayonet: I have an M-6 bayo for my rifle. It was made "usgi" for the M-14. It slides right on just as
it should, except for the last 5mm. I'm going to have to do some minor fitting mods to steal 5-6mm there.
I'm sorry you cut your bayo lug off but, if you weren't planning on affixing a bayonet anyway, then it is
now an easy way to access your piston.
One of these days I hope to post a pic of my M-14 c/w the bayonet affixed properly.
Cheers,
SL
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A well now I feel half stupid... but as I was more leaning torard later scoping and installing a blackfeather stock on this shorty it's not to bad, but your tread has gotten me thinking really hard about getting a full length norc and installing a stock similar to yours!
Sometimes it's expansive to read on CGN!
Sometimes it's expansive to read on CGN!
Sporting Lad
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Meaure twice, cut twice...
Don't be so hard on yourself, Guy. Feeling half stupid is only half as bad as feeling completely stupid...
...and I'm sure we've all felt the same way at one time or another.
Some rifles want a bayo and some don't. I've got an SKS I'm going full 'Bubba' on. The first thing I did was
remove the folding bayo. But for this M-14 I want a definite 'vintage military' look, so it's got to have the
right bayonet.
Yeah, I hardly do anything to my guns these days before I consult at least one of the forums.
I might not follow their advice, but I will ask for opinions before I break out the angle grinder...
You should post some pics of your rifles. Start your own thread and show us your work.
Bonsoir!
Don't be so hard on yourself, Guy. Feeling half stupid is only half as bad as feeling completely stupid...
...and I'm sure we've all felt the same way at one time or another.
Some rifles want a bayo and some don't. I've got an SKS I'm going full 'Bubba' on. The first thing I did was
remove the folding bayo. But for this M-14 I want a definite 'vintage military' look, so it's got to have the
right bayonet.
Yeah, I hardly do anything to my guns these days before I consult at least one of the forums.
I might not follow their advice, but I will ask for opinions before I break out the angle grinder...
You should post some pics of your rifles. Start your own thread and show us your work.
Bonsoir!
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Sporting Lad
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
2 Qs:
That looks good, J996.
2 Qs for you:
Q#1) Your sling: Did you bend those hooks into a tighter curve? The way my sling arrived, the hooks keep coming unhooked at the worst of times.
It seems like a bit of minor bending might help. Not so much they might break; I don't want to even so much as scatch them...
Q#2) Your selector switch: Please give me some installation tips based on your experience (Brownells are not strong on including instructions).
a) The Roll Pin-- Do I mark and drill a 1/16" hole to a depth that matches the length of the pin (minus the ht of the switch)??
1) Do I just drive the pin in all the way, or trim it off shorter? I don't want to end up splitting the wood there...
b) Use any glue?
That looks good, J996.
2 Qs for you:
Q#1) Your sling: Did you bend those hooks into a tighter curve? The way my sling arrived, the hooks keep coming unhooked at the worst of times.
It seems like a bit of minor bending might help. Not so much they might break; I don't want to even so much as scatch them...
Q#2) Your selector switch: Please give me some installation tips based on your experience (Brownells are not strong on including instructions).
a) The Roll Pin-- Do I mark and drill a 1/16" hole to a depth that matches the length of the pin (minus the ht of the switch)??
1) Do I just drive the pin in all the way, or trim it off shorter? I don't want to end up splitting the wood there...
b) Use any glue?
Sporting Lad,
- The sling is a Turner slings AWS (synthetic). If your sling has steel hooks you should be able to bend them in some, I've done it before using a vice. Just tape up the hook so you don't scratch it.
- I had a different kit than yours it was made from demilled M14 parts but yeah I would drill the hole, and glue in the pin.
- The sling is a Turner slings AWS (synthetic). If your sling has steel hooks you should be able to bend them in some, I've done it before using a vice. Just tape up the hook so you don't scratch it.
- I had a different kit than yours it was made from demilled M14 parts but yeah I would drill the hole, and glue in the pin.
Nice rigs, I like the old school look.
Accessories really make a difference. A nice vintage bayonet looks good.
Even adding an original US GI cleaning kit and sling is a nice touch. Back in the day, Numrich was selling new in the wrap original US GI issue M14 cleaning kits with slings for dirt cheap. The slings were the shiny greenish/brown nylon type used in Vietnam, very distinctive.
I bought a pile of them, which I sold over the years. Still have the bug though. I've got an incoming parts order that includes an original ventilated handguard....not the most practical, but correct for early issue M14s and looks good IMHO.
Don't forget to get a set of webbing with the correct m14 ammo pouches !!!,
Accessories really make a difference. A nice vintage bayonet looks good.
Even adding an original US GI cleaning kit and sling is a nice touch. Back in the day, Numrich was selling new in the wrap original US GI issue M14 cleaning kits with slings for dirt cheap. The slings were the shiny greenish/brown nylon type used in Vietnam, very distinctive.
I bought a pile of them, which I sold over the years. Still have the bug though. I've got an incoming parts order that includes an original ventilated handguard....not the most practical, but correct for early issue M14s and looks good IMHO.
Don't forget to get a set of webbing with the correct m14 ammo pouches !!!,
Sporting Lad
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
The TUNG OIL
Er, where was I? Oh, ja, I left you just after the sanding stage. At that point I was trying to decide what to do next. I had a lot of choices. Boiled Linseed Oil? I'd finished a Mosin-Nagant this past summer by applying multiple coats of "BLO" rubbed in one at a time, then three coats of furniture wax.
I was very happy with the way that turned out, but that's not 'the look' I wanted on my M-14.
How about "Minwax Tung Oil Finish" (TOF)? The CMP boys seem to feel it's a viable alternative that goes on and seals everything pretty good. I actually have an unopened can right here on my bench, so applying some of this stuff was very tempting, especially since I was unable to locate a store that carried my Holy Grail, "Pure Tung Oil" (PTO).
The day before I was to begin the Minwax TOF two things happened:
1) Reading further into the extensive CMP essay I discovered that, because the TOF seals the stock so well, PTO or BLO or much of anything else could not successfully be applied over top of the TOF--those oils will not soak into wood that has been sealed. That made me a little nervous. On the plus side, the ToF seemed like a low maintenance way to finish a stock and have a nice 'military look' that would stay looking good for a long time. On the other hand, it seemed too much like a 'finish of no return', ie if I didn't like the result, I'd have to go back and ...strip it all off. I don't like having to wage chemical warfare against thirsty old wood. If only I had some of this elusive PURE TUNG OIL I could rub some of that in, then apply the TOF to seal it...
2) Later that day, in a fit of desperation, I went out with little hope of success, to our little Mom & Pop hardware store and...I could hardly believe it--they had a tin of the PTO! Pop reached up on the top shelf and placed it gently on the counter. "We don't get much call for this stuff anymore. Nowadays everybody wants a quick and easy way...." I was out of the store before he'd finished talking. This was good. This was very, very good.
That evening I went over the stock with 0000 steel wool and wiped it down with a tack cloth. That was supposed to be 'it' until morning, but I couldn't resist. 'I'll just rub a drop or two onto some spot on the stock that's not too noticeable,' I mused. 'Rub it in real good, just to get a glimpse of what it might look like if I did the whole thing'. Hey, it looked good and it was bringing out some grain where I hadn't noticed it before.
Half an hour later the entire first coat was on and wiped down.
Here's what it looked like the next morning:
My plan for the handguard was to do a rattle can job of mid-Hershy Bar brown (satin) to mimic the original version, but first I took some of that 0000 steel wool to it. The more I rubbed, the more the flat black finish began to take on more of a 'blued steel' look.
So I'm undecided now whether to give it the paint job or to leave it in this state.
Wow, I was surprised and pretty darned pleased with my result. It seemed too easy.
If that's what it looked like with just ONE coat of the PTO, I wondered-- What would two (or more) coats look like? (to be continued)...
Er, where was I? Oh, ja, I left you just after the sanding stage. At that point I was trying to decide what to do next. I had a lot of choices. Boiled Linseed Oil? I'd finished a Mosin-Nagant this past summer by applying multiple coats of "BLO" rubbed in one at a time, then three coats of furniture wax.
I was very happy with the way that turned out, but that's not 'the look' I wanted on my M-14.
How about "Minwax Tung Oil Finish" (TOF)? The CMP boys seem to feel it's a viable alternative that goes on and seals everything pretty good. I actually have an unopened can right here on my bench, so applying some of this stuff was very tempting, especially since I was unable to locate a store that carried my Holy Grail, "Pure Tung Oil" (PTO).
The day before I was to begin the Minwax TOF two things happened:
1) Reading further into the extensive CMP essay I discovered that, because the TOF seals the stock so well, PTO or BLO or much of anything else could not successfully be applied over top of the TOF--those oils will not soak into wood that has been sealed. That made me a little nervous. On the plus side, the ToF seemed like a low maintenance way to finish a stock and have a nice 'military look' that would stay looking good for a long time. On the other hand, it seemed too much like a 'finish of no return', ie if I didn't like the result, I'd have to go back and ...strip it all off. I don't like having to wage chemical warfare against thirsty old wood. If only I had some of this elusive PURE TUNG OIL I could rub some of that in, then apply the TOF to seal it...
2) Later that day, in a fit of desperation, I went out with little hope of success, to our little Mom & Pop hardware store and...I could hardly believe it--they had a tin of the PTO! Pop reached up on the top shelf and placed it gently on the counter. "We don't get much call for this stuff anymore. Nowadays everybody wants a quick and easy way...." I was out of the store before he'd finished talking. This was good. This was very, very good.
That evening I went over the stock with 0000 steel wool and wiped it down with a tack cloth. That was supposed to be 'it' until morning, but I couldn't resist. 'I'll just rub a drop or two onto some spot on the stock that's not too noticeable,' I mused. 'Rub it in real good, just to get a glimpse of what it might look like if I did the whole thing'. Hey, it looked good and it was bringing out some grain where I hadn't noticed it before.
Half an hour later the entire first coat was on and wiped down.
Here's what it looked like the next morning:
My plan for the handguard was to do a rattle can job of mid-Hershy Bar brown (satin) to mimic the original version, but first I took some of that 0000 steel wool to it. The more I rubbed, the more the flat black finish began to take on more of a 'blued steel' look.
So I'm undecided now whether to give it the paint job or to leave it in this state.
Wow, I was surprised and pretty darned pleased with my result. It seemed too easy.
If that's what it looked like with just ONE coat of the PTO, I wondered-- What would two (or more) coats look like? (to be continued)...
Mumbles Marble Mouth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Lower Mainland
I just looked at your web site and now I want to make a designated marksmen M14 out of my M305. Just take my money dammit!
Sporting Lad
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
I found a bayonet:
I found the perfect bayonet! An M6, still sealed in its original packaging as shipped by the manufacturer-- unopened since 1968.
Now I just have to decide how I'm going to affix it. I need to steal ~6mm from between the gas plug and the pommel.
I may be able to shave a couple off the plug face, and cut a relief hole a few mm deep in the back face of the bayo.
Otherwise I could find a machinist to turn out a slightly shorter plug with the same internal volume. Still another thing I
could do would be to trim a bit off the rear of the bayonet lug, but I'd need to measure that very carefully to be sure it wouldn't rattle
or not go on far enough...
I know others have done this and
I WILL get it to work.
I found the perfect bayonet! An M6, still sealed in its original packaging as shipped by the manufacturer-- unopened since 1968.
Now I just have to decide how I'm going to affix it. I need to steal ~6mm from between the gas plug and the pommel.
I may be able to shave a couple off the plug face, and cut a relief hole a few mm deep in the back face of the bayo.
Otherwise I could find a machinist to turn out a slightly shorter plug with the same internal volume. Still another thing I
could do would be to trim a bit off the rear of the bayonet lug, but I'd need to measure that very carefully to be sure it wouldn't rattle
or not go on far enough...
I know others have done this and
I WILL get it to work.
Sporting Lad
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Hey, thx for that tip, man!
I'm wondering if my '305 (Norinco) has the same thread. Some of them are metric...
I'm wondering if my '305 (Norinco) has the same thread. Some of them are metric...
