I agree. I've studied a lot bolt actions before buying one that I believed would be the best bang for the buck and for bolts the standard is pretty much 1MOA.
I'm questionning myself where I'm either asking too much with 1MOA for a semi auto or 2MOA would be good enough.
The FNAR always called me I thought I could sell my savage and get the same capability of 308 power and precision with the FNAR and buy a 223 bolt instead. Unfortunately the rail has no MOA built in so unless paying 3-400$ rings with MOA built in there's no way you can shoot this beast up to 6-800 yards + the gun weight 9lbs so it's pretty much the same as my precision rifle with scope and all but my rifle is paid and ready to shoot so it would simply be a hudge loss of money.
My first Choice has always been the SU16 since it's light weight, compact, can take LAR mag and shoot 10 rounds legally.
Only complaint might be the precision that I should probably review for a semi with my budget. I've heard that lot of people dont like plastic although I'm not part of the tactical elitism where I need all parts to be made of steel since I won't throw this gun above a 10' fence If I drop it shoulder height and it doesn't break it's good for me.
I'd probably go with the Tac or compact version for it's folding capability but I'd preffer pistol grip adeally.
I think you're asking too much for a non restricted semi, having them honestly shoot 1 moa is very rare. And as I said earlier, having one guy claim he got 1 moa once does not make the rifle a 1 moa rifle. Have a look at the one moa challenge thread and look at the the rifles that are actually doing five rounds for five groups on one piece of paper. There are no SU-16's, no MR1's, no XCR's, it's the high end rifles with aftermarket barrels with an experienced shooter behind it who is 9 times out of 10 running well developed handloads.
I understand wanting the most accuracy so when you miss you know it was you and not the rifle but you can't have that if you're shopping for the best bang for the buck. If you're going to run factory ammo and want tight groups then chances are you're going to be spending over $1/round.
I've owned most of the non resteicted semi auto's we have in Canada and if I haven't owned one I have at least had a chance to run rounds through them and of all of them the only ones I ever seen produce a 1 moa or better group are the SL8's and my ACR with my custom made stainless match grade 300BLK barrel. Other than that I've owned a few AR's that would do 1 moa but most of the other options were a reliable 2-3 moa with the odd lucky group from time to time that was under 2 moa.
Even the Fnar is not going to give you 1 moa, one of my friends had one and I spent a bit of time with it, he was having a heck of a time finding a handload that he could get 1 moa from. He chased it for a long time but could never get it to consistently shoot well. 3 shots looking good then a flyer, over and over no matter what he tried with his loads. He also had a $1000 scope and was shooting it off bags so chances are it was the rifle and not his shooting.
600-800 yards shouldn't need a canted base, you should need less than 30moa of correction and most scopes have enough for that.
Pastic? First, it's polymer not plastic and there is a difference. Second, most rifles these days are polymer, my ACR has a polymer lower, doesn't bother me at all, my HK is all polymer, I don't worry about it. The gun isn't going to get brittle in the cold like some made in china childs toy. I've shot my HK's, my AR180B, my Vector, my ACR, and many other rifles that have polymer in their construction in the middle of winter down to -20c and never had a problem with anything other than once using too thick of a lubricant that stopped the Vector from cycling. Heck, I even had my Kel-Tec sub2000 out in the middle of winter and that had to be the cheapest feeling rifle I've ever owned and it survived.
Don't worry about the precision if all it's for is coyotes. Once you do some testing you'll know what the rifle can do and you just adjust your engagement range accordingly. If you're not happy with what it can do then sell it and keep saving your money till you can afford something better. If you buy used you shouldn't lose too much money if you decide to sell it later.
If you must have the accuracy potential and are on a budget then buy a used HK SL8. It's the only rifle I've seen that consistently shoots well, I'm on my third one, I have a buddy with one, and I've shot with other guys that have one and they all perform well and are 100% reliable.