New AR build

Chicken Lights said:
I’ll have to see if I can find a hardware store, thanks!

It’s a Magpull MOE SL stock, it should be a mil-spec stock and buffer tube. That was my first thought, that I was mixing up the sizes.

I’ll have to pick up a gun case too, I’d like to have someone else look at the stock but don’t really want to walk into a gun store carry half of a gun in the open. Or, at least walk in first empty handed then go back out to the truck for it. From what I have seen there’s some etiquette involved here.

Also at some point I’m sure I need a trigger lock and legal storage, even with it being half built?
Click to expand...

Ya the lower receiver on it's own needs a trigger lock and locked storage, or no trigger lock if you have a proper safe to put it in.


On the MOE, try installing it with a screwdriver.

Watch this starting at 2:56


For the clevis pin, my hardware stores didn't have them (some do), but Auto parts stores (like NAPA) usually do or can order them.
 
Last edited:
Something I would like to mention with regard to building your own AR and the online videos. One mistake that I see over and over that is very shocking to me is improper torquing of barrel nuts and the receiver extension nut (castellated buttstock nut).

To tighten these nuts you will need an armorer's wrench or some type of adapter for your torque wrench. The wrench or adapter must be at a 90 degree angle to the wrench to obtain the proper torque. If you do not, if it is extended straight out or an angle other than a right angle, you will multiply the force being applied. Think of it as adding a pipe over your wheel wrench when loosening the nuts on your cars tires. What you think is set at 40 ft/lbs might actually be 70. I suspect that the vast majority of people who broke their upper receiver did so because they used the wrong technique. Set the adapter at a right angle and use a slow steady pull until your setting is reached.

Good Luck
 
dacron said:
Ya the lower receiver on it's own needs a trigger lock and locked storage, or no trigger lock if you have a proper safe to put it in.


On the MOE, try installing it with a screwdriver.

Watch this starting at 2:56
**Image and video linking functions will be enabled after you have contributed more to the forum**


For the clevis pin, my hardware stores didn't have them (some do), but Auto parts stores (like NAPA) usually do or can order them.
Click to expand...
I used a punch instead of a screwdriver, same thing. But it worked! Thanks for the tip

I’ll look for a trigger lock
 
tbhupe said:
Something I would like to mention with regard to building your own AR and the online videos. One mistake that I see over and over that is very shocking to me is improper torquing of barrel nuts and the receiver extension nut (castellated buttstock nut).

To tighten these nuts you will need an armorer's wrench or some type of adapter for your torque wrench. The wrench or adapter must be at a 90 degree angle to the wrench to obtain the proper torque. If you do not, if it is extended straight out or an angle other than a right angle, you will multiply the force being applied. Think of it as adding a pipe over your wheel wrench when loosening the nuts on your cars tires. What you think is set at 40 ft/lbs might actually be 70. I suspect that the vast majority of people who broke their upper receiver did so because they used the wrong technique. Set the adapter at a right angle and use a slow steady pull until your setting is reached.

Good Luck
Click to expand...
I’ll remember that, thanks

There’s a bunch of little things that youtube videos gloss over, like correct orientation on the trigger pins, for example. The ones with the grooves in them for the springs
 
tbhupe said:
Something I would like to mention with regard to building your own AR and the online videos. One mistake that I see over and over that is very shocking to me is improper torquing of barrel nuts and the receiver extension nut (castellated buttstock nut).

To tighten these nuts you will need an armorer's wrench or some type of adapter for your torque wrench. The wrench or adapter must be at a 90 degree angle to the wrench to obtain the proper torque. If you do not, if it is extended straight out or an angle other than a right angle, you will multiply the force being applied. Think of it as adding a pipe over your wheel wrench when loosening the nuts on your cars tires. What you think is set at 40 ft/lbs might actually be 70. I suspect that the vast majority of people who broke their upper receiver did so because they used the wrong technique. Set the adapter at a right angle and use a slow steady pull until your setting is reached.

Good Luck
Click to expand...

But, then you still over torque the nut to get the hole to line up for the gas tube. I did not use a torque wrench. I tightened it good and then had to go tighter to get the nut to line up.
 
heliace said:
But, then you still over torque the nut to get the hole to line up for the gas tube. I did not use a torque wrench. I tightened it good and then had to go tighter to get the nut to line up.
Click to expand...

I assumed that was why so many barrel nuts have such wide torque range. (EG I have seen one nut that the torque spec was "30-50")

Where as typically a torque spec has a specific value not a range.
 
I has to max my most recent V-seven hand guard at 70/ft-lbs to get it lined up. Happy the specs for the nut were~45-70ft/lbs.
 

pause play rewind easy video for lower

my ar15 build is now 90% finish

i only need bold to complet what dealer have it in stock at a good price?
 
Take care installing the roll pin for the trigger guard, very easy to break the upper, and if you do, its a "paper weight". Make sure to support the receiver when driving the pin in.

Install the mag release before the bolt catch, it's much easier.
Install the rear takedown pin, then the pistol grip.
 
45C said:
Why not use shims?
Click to expand...

Because it was within spec, the hand guard fit (for gas tube/hand guard alingment) at 40ft/lb, and 70ft/lb and it had a railed hand guard so I wanted "in line" with the receiver. I went with the more "secure" fit as 40 ft/lb felt loose on the wrench. Torque wrench confirmed it was in spec, and 3k rounds later not a hiccup.
 
Chicken Lights said:
Anderson lower with an Anderson lower parts kit
Aero upper
BCM bolt group
BCM charge handle
Magpul stock
BCM buffer tube kit

That’s as far as I have so far for parts. I think I’m done with the upper, I’ll get back on the lower here soon.

I think I need a gas block, barrel and handguard left for parts. Sights and dummy rounds are kinda things I’ll worry about later on.

Any tricks, tips, advice, feel free to add on. This is my first gun build and I’m enjoying it so far.

I’m kind of shooting for a carbine style in 5.56, black, basically a short rifle that can put rounds down range
Click to expand...

A couple of years ago a dealer had a whole wack of BCL unfinished uppers and lowers, I bought a set for $85.00 (should have bought the whole works of them). It was supposed to be a leisurely build over the winter, so I started picking up parts; the upper had not been sand blasted, the lower had. I did the upper, finished both with Wheeler Ceramacoat, and started my build with the help of a downloaded assembly manual and minimal special tools. In no time, I had a rifle (couple of nights). I went with a brand new, $99.00 20" Dominion barrel. At the range, I loaded a single,and it worked. I loaded up a LAR 15 with 10, and they all fired. It is also very accurate, and I could not be happier with my build; I just wish I had bought at least one more upper to build a short barreled version... for no particular reason, other than to have one.

Exploded drawings look intimidating, but the AR is very straight forward if stuff is done in sequence, and you are careful to not lose any small parts!

I would post photos, but we all know how that works for most of us here.
 
Picked up a couple more detents for the upper/lower takedown pins today. Grabbed a barrel, sights, gas block and gas block tube.

Can’t believe I can’t find an AR wrench or armourers wrench on the shelf anywhere.

So I’m down to handguard with barrel nuts, AR wrench and something for the front of the barrel. Also need a trigger lock and a carry case of some kind but that’s minor-ish.

The guys showed me the basics of how the barrel, upper and handguard go together today, but didn’t have any black handguards in stock. They agreed with the advice given earlier in this thread that for the first time build to have a gunsmith install the barrel

It’s slow but it’s coming together
 
Chicken Lights said:
Picked up a couple more detents for the upper/lower takedown pins today. Grabbed a barrel, sights, gas block and gas block tube.

Can’t believe I can’t find an AR wrench or armourers wrench on the shelf anywhere.

So I’m down to handguard with barrel nuts, AR wrench and something for the front of the barrel. Also need a trigger lock and a carry case of some kind but that’s minor-ish.

The guys showed me the basics of how the barrel, upper and handguard go together today, but didn’t have any black handguards in stock. They agreed with the advice given earlier in this thread that for the first time build to have a gunsmith install the barrel

It’s slow but it’s coming together
Click to expand...


https://ctcsupplies.ca/magpul-armorers-wrench-ar15-m4/

https://truenortharms.com/ar15_default_store_view/ar-15-multi-wrench-single-ended.html


CTCS magpul wrench will be higher quality than True North Arms no-name "loosey goosey wrench", if you're only putting 1 together TNA's will likely do well. But the magpul wrench is a lifetime tool.
 
Last edited:
Scrounged an AIM handguard yesterday. It’s a free float quad rail, with a built in barrel nut. No idea how to install it I’ll play with it when I’m home and at the shop. It may be just about time to visit a gunsmith to make sure I haven’t messed up anywhere and to install the barrel.
 
I don’t know if we’re still allowed to discuss what is now a prohibited firearm?

Anyway, the cheap armourer wrench doesn’t fit the barrel nut. It’s close but it’s off by 1/16-1/8” of an inch. Talked to a guy at a gun store last week, he says they ran into that problem before, they refuse to carry the cheaper wrenches, but of course they’re sold out.

Friend of mine gave me a LAR-15 magazine, a 10 round. It doesn’t fit in the lower? Well it fits but doesn’t click into place? What am I missing? The Magpul mag slides in nice and locks in.

I still need to get a trigger lock

Also, asking for a friend, how do you unload a magazine once you’ve put ammo in it?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom