New to casting and coating.

[PPCLI-Jim]

So I think I'm getting the casting part down, but the coating part starts next week. I got into it so I could let my friend shoot his dad's gun, as he doesn't own a PAL, he knew I have one. So I was bequeathed it, but it's a 69/71 Vetterli, lots of luck finding ammo in the LGS! So after being able to get the rifle checked ,at the local gunsmith for a complete teardown and inspection. Then after getting dies, the big thing was the bullets. I found a guy selling fully converted brass AND bullets on the site here. (ARWHO) thanks to him I got to let him fire it.

Now I located a set of molds, I thought too easy. Cast about 100, then I'm done! Yup, totally done! Now I just got some .312 150gr molds and .311 sizing die, for the .303 and 7.62x54r or x39. And the grandkid wants me to cast them jig head hooks for fishing. And of course powder coating, isn't far behind.

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

 

[yomomma]

Welcome to a new addiction. The .311 is great in the 7.62x39.

I have a few useful videos on my youtube channel as far as casting and powder coating are concerned.

Good work

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

I've lurked there a bit, but just subscribed.

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

I got into this for the Swiss Vetterli, now doing some .303 Brit, but also 7.62x39 and 7.62x54r. But haven't done any for the SVT YET!

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

A guy that follows me, on YouTube, told me he was starting to load 12 g and to cast and coat. And that's where we both are, he's about 2 steps ahead of me on this whole thing.

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

Would using just WW lead cause a gain weight, both my .41 Swiss bullets and my .312 are + 10 grains.

 

[yomomma]

Would using just WW lead cause a gain weight, both my .41 Swiss bullets and my .312 are + 10 grains?

Yes lead composition affects weight. Casting temp can also play a factor

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

Yes lead composition affects weight. Casting temp can also play a factor

Thanks.

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

Cast up and refined all my lead and came up with this. I pulled all the dross off the lead, then I poured myself a bunch of pucks. I'll mark a pour line so I cast them to a consistent weight. I ordered some tin, so I can harden my lead.

 

[yomomma]

Cast up and refined all my lead and came up with this. I pulled all the dross off the lead, then I poured myself a bunch of pucks. I'll mark a pour line so I cast them to a consistent weight. I ordered some tin, so I can harden my lead.

Tin does very little to harden lead, you need Antimony.

I mentioned that in one of my videos.

Tin is used to break the surface tension so you have better filled out molds

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

Gotcha, so I tried again with much better results. Got the fill out better this time along with better surface smoothness.
I'm slowly getting your videos sorted out in my mind

 

[Snider shooter]

You could also try finding some Linotype. Hardens up your alloy. I bought a bunch from a scrap yard in Halifax and 80 some lbs from a fellow that no longer casts. I usually run about 17 bhn for my rifles and magnum handguns.

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

You could also try finding some Linotype. Hardens up your alloy. I bought a bunch from a scrap yard in Halifax and 80 some lbs from a fellow that no longer casts. I usually run about 17 bhn for my rifles and magnum handguns.

Yes, I've been looking for some. I live in the boondocks of central BC, scrap metal guys are 3+ hrs away. Next time I plan on heading to the coast I'll call ahead.

 

[yomomma]

If you can get some clip on wheel weights, they are usually about perfect for rifle bullets. Add a bit of tin and water quench.

 

[barsik]

a possible source for lead is a shotgun trap/skeet range that has a large membership and is in regular operation. the spent shot will end up in a fairly confined area and can be harvested relatively easily depending on the ground cover. most dedicated trap and skeet shells have high antimony shot (2-5%) for a more consistent pattern. contact the club and ask a few questions.

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

Our range NVFG club's shotgun range is a scrubland setting, with shrubbery being all over. I do however scrounge unhit skeets for reactive targets for over 200m

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

well this set of 170 grain flat nosed failed, I'll try again

 

[hunter64]

Powder coating takes a lot of the guess work out of mixes of lead and types of lube. All you need is wheel weights and a bit of tin to add to the lead mix and do as mentioned before water quench them. Run them thru a sizer die and powder coat them.

I run a Marlin 444 at 2100 fps with water quenched wheel weights (approx. Lyman #2) then powder coat them afterwards. I can get about 1.5" for 10 shots at 100 meters (or one big hole) which blows people away at the range. The trick with the old microgroove rifles is fast and sized correctly.
I don't have any leading in the barrel, just normal clean up afterwards.

To make life easy I just do the same thing for all my pistol and rifle casting. Only thing I don't powder coat is for black powder firearms and no water quenching.

When I first started nearly 50 years ago, you had to watch your lead mixes, temperatures very closely. Then you had to have the correct bullet lube for the speed you wanted to push the bullet at etc. It was a lot of experimental work because all you had was books on how to do it and no one to show you.

I have a stash of WW, lino and pure lead with some 95/5 solder or 60/40 solder and I am good to go. Haven't needed or used the Lino since I started powder coating.

Your on the right track, temperature and proper fill out of the mould will take time and experience but you will get it. Keep notes of what works and what doesn't will make you life easier.

I almost enjoy bullet making and reloading more than the actual shooting, lol.