new to the distance

Yup the very same reasons for the Federal purchases of "ground seeking helicopters", slightly used Brit submarines that sink when they shouldn't.
If anyone thinks that the military always uses or procures the very best for our boys, ya may want to think again.
Many Government procurements are in fact based on back office deals or are garnered by interest groups, like when the US adopted the M60 machine gun, which is well known to be 1 of the worst designs in modern history, eclipsed possibly only by the Carcano.

Just sayin'.

Fixed it.
 
You'll never be zero'd exactly halfway through your range. But for example, with a flat base, lets say you zero at 200 (or where ever) and you have 40 minutes of "up" left in your scope adjustment. This may not be enough for a long-range shot.
Change out to a 20 min. base, everything else staying the same, and you now have 60 minutes of up available.

Hope this helps ya....

(clear as mud?)

i know i will never be zeroed exactly that was just a perfect world situation..



im learning lots about this distance stuff, thanks every one! im comfortable out to right around 550yards with my 338wm, but thats more knowing my hold over and 50% luck, still learning to read the wind at multiple distances


so as i continue my reading and learning, may i ask a "simple" question... 110ba with 20MOA rail, .338LM, and NF 12-42 scope, 1000 yard rifle? y/n ?
 
If you look at the various Sightron SIII LR scopes, they have way more elevation adjustment then most other high mag scopes.

The 6-24 has 100min, 3.8" eye relief
8-32 has 70min 4" eye relief
10-50 has 50min. 3.6" eye relief

Eye relief is very long for such high mag scopes. That might a good thing with a boomer. These scopes use a wide angle eye piece and are so very easy to look through despite the very high mag.

If you really want to really reach out, you can get fixed power SIII with..... 150 mins of up!

Best thing you can do is play with a ballistics program and see how much elevation will need to the max distance you intend to play.

1000yds it not far anymore, especially with something like a 338LM. Just about any scope will get you out there.

Things get a little more interesting at 1500yds and loads of fun at 2000yds and beyond.

There really isn't anyway to know how much up you have left until you mount the gear and shoot the rifle. From there, you can adjust as needed.

I always use a 20 MOA base cause the Sightrons have so much internal elevation. I also use the Burris Sig ZEE rings with inserts so I can fine tune my elevation and windage settings to optimise my useage.

For LR plinking, I sincerely doubt you will need to go over 32X regardless of the conditions - unless 1500yds is just the beginning. There is no fun is not spotting your own hits.

I use a 6-24 SIII on my 223 and have no issue spotting impacts of a 80gr Amx at ranges out to 1400yds.

A 338 slug is going to kick up WAAAAAYY more dirt.

Jerry
 
thanks, so much google and reading these last few weeks.

i hear what your saying that 1000 yards isnt very far any more, and im hopeing that 1000yds is just the beginning of my distance shooting, i just want to build a system thats capable of doing so with out having to go back and change things a few times and just cost my self more money then i need too
 
so as i continue my reading and learning, may i ask a "simple" question... 110ba with 20MOA rail, .338LM, and NF 12-42 scope, 1000 yard rifle? y/n ?

Yes.

You should have no problem reaching out 1000. I have a 338edge, pretty much equal capacities, with a 20moa rail and a scope with only 50moa, and I can reach out just under 1700 with berger hybrids, but berger needs to hurry up with the "New Hybrid"... I have a few moa left at 1500 with the 300mk, and have plenty of room to spare at 1000 with the 250gr accubond.

FWIW The 338 defintely puts up some dirt when the bullet strikes, at 1000 you can easily see the impact with my 10x bino's. With soft ground even at 1500 you can watch the bullet impact.

With a scope with <50moa you may not be able to zero at 100, as you may run out of adjustment. I have 5 clicks left in my scope when zero'd at 100. Not that it is a big deal, as you are likely only shooting long with a boomer.
 
thanks long! i was hoping yes would be the answer! haha im not to worried about zeroing at 100 yards, for 100 yards i have my .22 rifles and my pistols haha..

so by the sounds of what im reading here , worse case scenario with my set up, i run the NF12-44, find i dont have the MOA i need, stick that on somthing else and shove on a scope with more MOA adjustment? sound about right to every one?
 
If you find you run out of up, shim the scope and problem solved.

When I took my 223 to a mile, I used a scope with only 50mins of elevation. My 100yds zero was 48" up. Dropped the bullet around 1400yds and I dialed up to get the rest of the way.

Hitting two feet high at 100yds is no big deal and will give you a 'zero' of around 1000yds. Now you can dial up and use the reticle to reach WAAAAYYY out.

Having a scope with more internal adjustment makes life easier.

Jerry
 
haha i was actually thining about that on my drive home today, that what would there be from stoping me to make a shim block out of Aluminum and shimming the whole scope rail up so where i want it..

great minds think alike!! to bad fools seldom differ :/
 
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If I remember right the 110 ba has a factory rail that extends down the barrel a ways, no? Or is a two piece rail? If it is one piece you may not be able to shim the factory rail much as it might touch the barrel. The easist way to gain cant would be Burris rings with offset inserts, you can gain you quite a bit more elevation if you need it. Or you could replace the rail with a standard length rail and shim the rail.

You should be able to get a total of 40moa with the factory 20moa rail and the burris rings with offset inserts.
 
Yup the very same reasons for the Federal purchases of "ground seeking helicopters", slightly used Brit submarines that sink when they shouldn't.
If anyone thinks that the military always uses or procures the very best for our boys, ya may want to think again.
Many Government procurements are in fact based on back office deals or are garnered by interest groups, like when the US adopted the M60 machine gun, which is well known to be 1 of the worst designs in modern history, eclipsed possibly only by the Carcano.

Yep I agree.But in this case you are incorrect.The S+B IS the best scope for this job.As far as small arms procurement goes, whoever is in charge is doing a pretty bang up job in the CF.My only complain is the pistol.
 
We sell sightron and Nightforce, but an awesome scope is Zeiss-Hensoldt, which can be ordered with MOA, Milradian or distance indicatorr as you look through scope. Nice!
 
Yep I agree.But in this case you are incorrect.The S+B IS the best scope for this job.As far as small arms procurement goes, whoever is in charge is doing a pretty bang up job in the CF.My only complain is the pistol.

I agree that the S&B is a great scope, but "best" is subjective.
I don't have firn numbers but do know that for every S&B Canada has there are a goodly number more NF scopes deployed by US forces as well as LE agencies in both countries.
Every item not just scopes have positives and negatives, I do not believe there is a "best", just best for the job and the person doing THAT job.
 
Long range scopes

Well here goes with the nubiest question as this is really out of my element, but what about the scopes like Zeiss that have cross hairs marked out to 1000 yds. Would they not work without adjusting the scope constantly for different ranges or would they be too general to be precise at a given distance without turret adjustments.
 
Well here goes with the nubiest question as this is really out of my element, but what about the scopes like Zeiss that have cross hairs marked out to 1000 yds. Would they not work without adjusting the scope constantly for different ranges or would they be too general to be precise at a given distance without turret adjustments.

Not as well as doing calculations and comeups manually.
The 1 size fits all reticles can not compensate for differences in elevation, humidity or any other trajestory variable that happens not only by the day but every hour.
 
Not as well as doing calculations and comeups manually.
The 1 size fits all reticles can not compensate for differences in elevation, humidity or any other trajestory variable that happens not only by the day but every hour.

There are ballistic programs for the Zeiss scopes that adjust for most parameters including the ones you mentioned for a given caliber and even specific bullet brand and weight. I do agree though, that having the dope for your particular combination probably works best. There are some high end sniper type scopes that do have the different distances in the reticle so was wondering about first hand experiences with these scopes.
 
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