You're right! A friend of mine once bought a used but well treated benchrest rifle in .223. He thought he'd better clean it so he went at it with patches and Hoppes. He scrubbed and scrubbed all afternoon and the patches kept coming out medium grey. The bore shone like a mirror but he was convinced the barrel was still dirty. I'm not sure what the science is but a patch wet with Hoppes will always come out coloured no matter how clean the bore is.
No Longer A Fan OF WipeOut
- Thread starter Max Owner
- Start date
You're right! A friend of mine once bought a used but well treated benchrest rifle in .223. He thought he'd better clean it so he went at it with patches and Hoppes. He scrubbed and scrubbed all afternoon and the patches kept coming out medium grey. The bore shone like a mirror but he was convinced the barrel was still dirty. I'm not sure what the science is but a patch wet with Hoppes will always come out coloured no matter how clean the bore is.
I love wipeout.
I use M pro 7 with a nylon brush to get the carbon out, then I patch with the accelerator, then a squirt of Wipeout. The barrel is always squeeky clean when I patch out the wipeout the next morning.
There is a big difference if you have a factory or custom barrel with ease of cleaning. A hand lapped barrel is worth its price just because how easy they clean up.
I use M pro 7 with a nylon brush to get the carbon out, then I patch with the accelerator, then a squirt of Wipeout. The barrel is always squeeky clean when I patch out the wipeout the next morning.
There is a big difference if you have a factory or custom barrel with ease of cleaning. A hand lapped barrel is worth its price just because how easy they clean up.
When shooting in Australia I noticed it was standard practice to put a wet patch through the barrel, immediatley after the last match of the day - while the barrel was still hot.
Later, after a cold Foster's, a clean patch would be pushed through and it would come out very gunky. The warm solvent seemed to work better.
The Aussie ammo used powder with calcium carbonate in it. This stuff is a ##### to clean, so they started with the warm barrel.
I was first exposed to Wipeout when a Yank showed me the can, as we came off the range, and squirted some in the barrel (a dry patch stuck in chamber). When I got home I was reminded of the Aussie experience. A lot of crap came out. The cleaning was going on while I drove home.
When i clean at home, I use my usual routine with RemClean and Hoppes Benchrest. It seems that most of the crap has already come out on that one first patch.
WipeOut seems to speed things up, not replace normal cleaning.
Later, after a cold Foster's, a clean patch would be pushed through and it would come out very gunky. The warm solvent seemed to work better.
The Aussie ammo used powder with calcium carbonate in it. This stuff is a ##### to clean, so they started with the warm barrel.
I was first exposed to Wipeout when a Yank showed me the can, as we came off the range, and squirted some in the barrel (a dry patch stuck in chamber). When I got home I was reminded of the Aussie experience. A lot of crap came out. The cleaning was going on while I drove home.
When i clean at home, I use my usual routine with RemClean and Hoppes Benchrest. It seems that most of the crap has already come out on that one first patch.
WipeOut seems to speed things up, not replace normal cleaning.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Wonderful stuff and the only commercial cleaner I would use.
I went through pretty much all the stuff a few years back. My criteria was removal of copper AND speed.
Many things got the job done but needed lots of elbow grease or time. Not my idea of fun.
Then I tried CR10 - Wow, heed the warning on the label. Do not leave in the bore for more then 15mins and use in well ventilated area.
Very strong ammonia content and was the only liq cleaner to 'mine' the copper out of my WWII specials.
I used CR10 behind EVERY commercial cleaner I could get at that time including the brands mentioned above and EVERY time I got out more copper and crap. Now I am the first to say that you don't need a spotless barrel to regain accuracy and most of my barrels are filthy but shoot great.
But this proved to me that all the cleaners I had available were not able to do a complete job.
Now CR10 is nice and pricey so I began looking for something that would do the same thing/same speed but cost peanuts.
I found GM top engine cleaner. Cheaper and does a wonderful job of getting rid of the carbon fouling (what is is designed to do) but my local dealership stopped carrying it so off I went again.
I tried a few other carbon cutters and they all seemed to work the same. Found a sale on a big jug of Kleenbore solvent and that has been what I have been using for a while.
Now onto a copper remover. Well we know ammonia is the most common active ingredient so I went looking for something strong.
I found janitorial grade ammonia - WARNING - this stuff is very strong and must be used outside. DO NOT LEAVE IN THE BORE FOR MORE THEN A MINUTE OR TWO.
Super strong, brutal stuff....and dirt cheap. PERFECT
This stuff removes copper right now. Wipe it in, wipe it out. No wait, no muss, no fuss. Dry patch it out, maybe a patch of light oil if in a high humidity area - good to store.
I can clean my factory rifles in a couple of minutes and my match barrels with a few patches. Fast, simple and cheap.
As a huge bonus, I find this ammonia solution cuts through carbon very well too. So I am now only using one solution for all my cleaning.
I have used this for a few years now and have dissected a couple of dead barrels just to see what the bore looked like.
All 6.5 Mystics (260AI) with 1500 to 1800rds. Bye bye throat and quite a lot of rifling downrange. ZERO carbon build up in the throat area. NO copper visible.
This is what I am using now and will continue to use it until the next best thing.
I found my stuff at ZEP janitorial supply place. I need to stop by and get another gallon. The last one cost me $16 and I have given away more then I have used.
Even if it now costs $25, there is enough solution there to clean thousands of barrels. Cleans fast so you don't need to use a bunch....
Good stuff.
Jerry
Max Owner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Well.............
Some interesting points.
I used Federal Gold Match for this trip. Last trip was Hornady Varment Express.
I do have the Accelerator for WipeOut but have never used it yet. When I did the barrel break in (leave that one alone) I used Butch's and a bronze brush.
Some interesting points.
I used Federal Gold Match for this trip. Last trip was Hornady Varment Express.
I do have the Accelerator for WipeOut but have never used it yet. When I did the barrel break in (leave that one alone) I used Butch's and a bronze brush.
Max Owner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Max Owner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
In my mind in was black enough to suggest to my (untrained) eye that it was still dirty.
I have used all cleaners mentioned by other posts, wipe out included.
But the best cleaner in my mind by far is the new Hoppes Benchrest, I tested some barrels that I was sure where clean ran a wet Hoppes NEW Benchrest and left overnight the next morning major blue on dry patch. I then use a new copper brush about 8 to 10 stokes and dry patch again wet patch leave overnight sometime a slight blue on patch or no blue.
On match hand lapped barrrels I rarly have to use a brush, so nice to clean hand lapped barrels.
But the best cleaner in my mind by far is the new Hoppes Benchrest, I tested some barrels that I was sure where clean ran a wet Hoppes NEW Benchrest and left overnight the next morning major blue on dry patch. I then use a new copper brush about 8 to 10 stokes and dry patch again wet patch leave overnight sometime a slight blue on patch or no blue.
On match hand lapped barrrels I rarly have to use a brush, so nice to clean hand lapped barrels.
You boil your gun in a tank?!?!?!
I've heard a lot of things, but that's a new one. I've poured boiling water down the barrel after using corrosive ammo (cz858), but never actually thought to boil the whole barrelled action. Especially not in any kind of gun I'd think to post about in the "Precision Rifle" forum. Do you take the scope off first? Isn't re-zeroing a massive PITA?
Max Owner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
We have a winner!
I woulda thought that the patch going down the barrel first before the rod would have a different effect?
Now if I dragged the patch backwards towards the chamber, I could see your point. But not convinced.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I like the ease of use that WipeOut provides, apply at night, patch out in the morning. If I want to ensure no fouling remains, a single application of Sweets will tell the tail, and if I get color after 20 minutes, I can let the WipOut work for another 12 hours, or even 24. If I have time to clean a barrel with Sweets and patch out the barrel every 20 minutes, I'll do it, but most days I have better things to do. IMHO, the black remaining on the patch is only carbon, the copper fouling is gone, and the barrel is clean.
Max Owner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I was hoping to use one method and not have to spend money on several types of cleaners and different methods.
I liked the theory behind WipeOut where you didn't need to "scrub" the barrel and less likely to damage.
I liked the theory behind WipeOut where you didn't need to "scrub" the barrel and less likely to damage.
Farlsincharge
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Saskatchewan
You don't need to "scrub" the barrel. I have said this before. If you guys think there is a miracle cleaner that does not require the use of a brush, you are kidding yourselves. I clean my guns a LOT. I have it down to a bit of an art really and have discovered what works for me and what doesn't. I use wipeout "patch out" first and let it sit for a few minutes, then run a dry patch through. I run patch out through again and let it sit, then soak a bore brush in it and make a few passes. Then run a dry patch through and spray in wipe out and let it sit overnight. In the morning if it is dark blue or brown, I reapply the wipeout. If the gun was excessively dirty another round of brushing may be needed. Then G96 goes on everything. 3 products in total, pretty simple.
Thanx to Obtunded!
I had a massive accident to start off the weekend in my storage locker. So I figured since I have my storage locker upside down that I would try to see if Wipeout was just hype, or if this was another bash a product thread. My conclusion is that Wipeout is just hype. I haven't shot my bolt action since late September since my scope went on me. So I figure it's about time to re-lube it up. To my surprise, my patch was black. How could this be? I used Wipeout just like the direction say. So I said screw it! Then did exactly what Obtunded said. Except I had Hoppe's #9 instead of Butch. I scrub, swabbed & patched for a good 1/2 an hour before there was no more copper or carbon residue. I think from now on I am going to only use this stuff for my pistol barrels.
eaglesnester
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
WipeOut is not hype
All barrels sweat carbon. Clean any rifle or pistol until it is as clean and spotless as you can get it. Let it set for 3 days or so and go back and clean it again. You will find that the barrel will be almost as dirty as it was after you finished shooting it and before you cleaned it on the first day. The pours in the steel of the barrel sweat carbon. This was proven to me in the US Marine Corps. We had a policy of cleaning our weapons on the 3rd day after the first cleaning to remove this carbon sweat . This is what you are finding after using WipeOut. The WipeOut is a good product and does as it is advertised. We used some milspec bore cleaner that was pretty good stuff by the way, I wish I could find it on the civilian market.
Cheers & Tighter Groups: Eaglesnester
All barrels sweat carbon. Clean any rifle or pistol until it is as clean and spotless as you can get it. Let it set for 3 days or so and go back and clean it again. You will find that the barrel will be almost as dirty as it was after you finished shooting it and before you cleaned it on the first day. The pours in the steel of the barrel sweat carbon. This was proven to me in the US Marine Corps. We had a policy of cleaning our weapons on the 3rd day after the first cleaning to remove this carbon sweat . This is what you are finding after using WipeOut. The WipeOut is a good product and does as it is advertised. We used some milspec bore cleaner that was pretty good stuff by the way, I wish I could find it on the civilian market.
Cheers & Tighter Groups: Eaglesnester
