norc 45

do we know its wolf reloaded in kingston or russian wolf stuff....?

I ran 1000 kingston wolf reloads through my 1st norinco 1911, some of it had issues, but overall pretty good.

we also know the ammo was tried many times successfully in the same problem gun; also successfully after the 1st malfunction, so how could the gun have a sear/hammer engagement issue which then goes away for 7 shots, but comes back for the 8th?

I totally agree about not being able to diagnose without having it in your hand. The 1911 is a complex gun with mostly hand fitted parts, but at the same time its hard to believe that it was the gun when it otherwise functioned before.

We don't know that it was crappy old ammo; we only know that it was Wolf reloaded lead ammo. We also know that it was tried in another gun and functioned properly. Therefore I would not suspect the ammo. Wolf's stuff is typically pretty decent. I have also seen problems like this myself several times over the years and it was never the ammo....

Honestly, other than a few suggestions of what it could be, there is no way to trouble-shoot something like this with any degree of finality without having the gun in your hand and testing it. Often, what a person thinks they saw happen and what actually happened are two different things. Things happen very fast when a pistol cycles and it helps a great deal in trouble-shooting to know what you're looking for and how to test for proper function.
 
we also know the ammo was tried many times successfully in the same problem gun; also successfully after the 1st malfunction, so how could the gun have a sear/hammer engagement issue which then goes away for 7 shots, but comes back for the 8th?
A too short sear and some flex in the trigger bow could do it. Throw in some dirt fouling the trigger channel....

Anyway, as I say I've seen it happen. Doesn't mean it's happening here; I'm just throwing out some ideas that might be prudent to check.

Don't know about the Wolf ammo. I was assuming the Canadian Wolf rather than a Russian variety.
 
A too short sear and some flex in the trigger bow could do it. Throw in some dirt fouling the trigger channel....

Anyway, as I say I've seen it happen. Doesn't mean it's happening here; I'm just throwing out some ideas that might be prudent to check.

Don't know about the Wolf ammo. I was assuming the Canadian Wolf rather than a Russian variety.


Indeed, many possibilities. One could get much more useful information from a close inspection during dry-fire. And a function check using quality factory rounds. The description of the event leaves far too many questions unanswered to arrive at any useful conclusions whatsoever.

Regardless, sounds like the involved parties will be best served by returning the pistol to the retailer.
 
that's that stupid cfc crap again; if you get a misfire or a hang fire, i was taught that you cycle the slide to the rear, eject the round, check for barrel obstruction, and get back into the game- YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO WAIT 30 seconds

You should wait. Rimfire cartridges are the worst.

The last time I was at the range I witnessed a guy shooting his norc 45. The gun would fire a couple of rounds then FTF and he would just immediately clear it and continue on until the mag was empty. It didn't seem to phase him and he carried on with this type of proceedure for at least a couple of boxes. It was painfull to watch him and I felt like saying, "Dude wait the 30 seconds or so before clearing the dud round and get that gun into a gunsmith ASAP" but I am sure he already considered a gunsmith.
 
on the other hand, he was proceeding as you would during a match- waiting that 30 seconds would have been a waste of time with bad reloads- unless it booms right away, clear it , and carry on- even with rimfires- rimfires can often be fired by placing the rim in a different position- that 30 seconds amounts to 1 minute after 2 rounds, and really doesn't do you any good with a dud round- if it doesn't go boom after the first strike, chances are it isn't gonna
 
FWIW.
I have never seen a RED dot sight on any new Norinco 1911.
Only plain or white dot.:confused:

Maybe someone else bought the gun previously!:stirthepot2:

Just sayin' eh!:D

My Norc 45 two tone has the rear white dots and the front sight is like a yellow/red... Brand new out of the box.

Norc45frontsight.jpg

Norc45FrontSightColour.jpg
 
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I'm lost as to how this could be a mechanical issue. If the hammer falls (and the firing pin is in one piece!!??????? ) there's no way the firing pin can do anything but transfer the energy from the hammer. No hammer equals no strike, hammer equals strike. There's no way for the firing pin to cause a hangfire.
 
I have a question.

How many people here have never actually been taught how to clear a type 1 pistol malfunction?

I'm a newbie, so I don't know anything right? I'll bite. What is a type 1 pistol malfunction? Once I know what that is, maybe I'll be able to answer the question.
 
I'm lost as to how this could be a mechanical issue. If the hammer falls (and the firing pin is in one piece!!??????? ) there's no way the firing pin can do anything but transfer the energy from the hammer. No hammer equals no strike, hammer equals strike. There's no way for the firing pin to cause a hangfire.

+1
I agree
 
Thank you.

To answer the question, yes we were shown what to do if the gun goes click but not bang. Doesn't match the link though.
 
this is a moot point by now, but if it were my pistol, like i said, the first thing i'd look at would be the hammer, ( not the outside, , you have to do a DETAIL STRIP) and the action of the hammer actually falling- something's RETARDING the strike-possibly one of the pins is too big for the hole or there's CRUD in the mechanism , or maybe there's a high spot in the frame that doesn't allow the hammer to drop freely EVERY TIME-this can happen if the frame is clamped into a vise when installing the grip safety or a beavertail grip safety-they squeeze the frame- i've seen far too many amateur trigger jobs where somebody has taken a stone to the hammer notches and ended up taking one stroke too many and had the hammer follow the slide;the other symtom is you end up with a trigger pull that's under a pound and goes off just by looking at it- either way , the notches aren't doing their job- the only solution is a new hammer or a new trigger or both- either way, it's NOT a job for the average shooter- about the only thing we haven't chewed to death is if it's an ADJUSTABLE trigger- you can tell this as there's a small allen screw just behind the trigger- but i don't think "rinco " would put one of those in there- i've got one on mine, but it's a heavily moded colt- wilson trigger
 
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I'm a newbie, so I don't know anything right? I'll bite. What is a type 1 pistol malfunction? Once I know what that is, maybe I'll be able to answer the question.

hey, i didn't know wtf that was either- but then again i never knew what acts and prove was until a few years ago- funny how we survived without all the b/s and were perfectly safe- in some cases MORE SAFE, i still refuse to look down THE MUZZLE when i'm proving a gun
 
Thank you.

To answer the question, yes we were shown what to do if the gun goes click but not bang. Doesn't match the link though.

The only reason I asked, is that any training a person may have had for a pistol, specifically for a type 1 malfunction is TAP RACK.

Now, I'm noticing alot of people either not acknowledging this or simply not knowing about it.

Which leads me to believe that the vast majority of pistol shooters are casuals that still follow their original PAL instruction. It's a bit of a strange situation, as being taught during your PAL to wait 30seconds, yet being taught by any manner of professional instructor for anything from marksmanship, to IPSC/IDPA sport shooting, to tactical shooting etc etc...they all each you TAP RACK!

I think were anyone to have further instruction beyond the basic PAL, would lean towards the TAP RACK system if not only because of habit/drills, but also because it's the proper method, beyond what is taught during a PAL course.
 
that's that stupid cfc crap again; if you get a misfire or a hang fire, i was taught that you cycle the slide to the rear, eject the round, check for barrel obstruction, and get back into the game- YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO WAIT 30 seconds

I'd hate to be A GPMG gunner feeder for you pal....
 
I'd hate to be A GPMG gunner feeder for you pal....

Are you serious? Do you think they wait 30s in the military?

Heck, I even remember my PAL instructor clarifying the difference between a civilian range and a military range. We had a few CF guys applying and they told us what they do with a misfire...they CLEAR the malfunction and get back firing AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

Nice try though.
 
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