In a normal situation the adjustment screw should be against the receiver but I have mine backed all the way out to try and give me the most sear engagement I can get because I have the issues of the bolt falling out of the rifle when the action is open. I am curious if the gape between the sear and bottom of the receiver is present on other peoples rifles
Norinco JW15 bolt/ bolt channel /sear tuning
- Thread starter Arcosdad
- Start date
Yes it did thank you. The sear and the bottom of your receiver have the same gap as mine so that rules that out as being an issue for me.
Yeah it’s sat in my cabinet for years befor I got around to shooting it. And now it’s back in the cabinet until I find more time to mess around with it again.
A bit more of an update on mine...
I did mentioned elsewhere that I discovered the side of the trigger was rubbing on the sub-plate that sits under the trigger guard; a bit of filing that that source of drag eliminated. Over travel on the trigger still needs to be addressed, but any over travel control is goingto be limited as bolt removal is dependent on the trigger being pulled a fair bit further back.
I had a small, compact, scope on it for a bit, while it shot like a laser with the scope it was not exceptionally handy. I decided to work with the Irons to get them zeroed; this I did last night. As another poster discovered here, the dovetail cut is too big for the sight. Sighting on our indoor range was interesting as it did not take much movement to make an effect down range. You can see how I chased it back and forth until I got the windage zeroed.
Sight radius is about 8", about the same as my High Standard target pistol. That, and the fact that the sights are "schiddy", does not help. The post is just as wide as the notch. More filing required. In my mind the final group sizes shown on the second target are acceptable for a rifle with the same sighting radius as a pistol. With the wedge, I am either 1" low or 1" high at 20 yards, I have it set for an inch high, so aimed for the bottom of the wight inner circle.
Rough opening had continued to be an issue. Yesterday, I took the bolt apart again and concentrated on rough spots, The cocking cam I had polished earlier, I concntrated on the firing pin and the little cocking indicator. As I mentioned earlier, the fireing pin had a lot of course and rough machining marks everywhere and also some forging marks. Just moving this back and forth, there were "sticky" spots. With a bit of red lead tracing agent, I identified some high spost and fliled those to relieve the high, tight spots. I also noted the slot milled in the end of the cap/safety block had very sharp edges, and it dragged on the safety mechanism. I gave it a going over, smothing the sharp deges and evening up the slot enough so that it no longer rubbs on thsafety when moving back and forth. Cleaned, oiled and reassembleld, it has made a real difference!!! Also, with the previous work on the bolt, it has settled in so with the bolt open, when I tim the rifle up and down, the bolt slids each way on it's own. Very happy in this respect!
The mag is another story; I have polished it up inside, and after many lip adjustments have it now working at about 50% vs the 10% (all but the first round), it needs more work yet. I wish I could find some 10 round CZ mags; my 455 mags run perfectly.
I did mentioned elsewhere that I discovered the side of the trigger was rubbing on the sub-plate that sits under the trigger guard; a bit of filing that that source of drag eliminated. Over travel on the trigger still needs to be addressed, but any over travel control is goingto be limited as bolt removal is dependent on the trigger being pulled a fair bit further back.
I had a small, compact, scope on it for a bit, while it shot like a laser with the scope it was not exceptionally handy. I decided to work with the Irons to get them zeroed; this I did last night. As another poster discovered here, the dovetail cut is too big for the sight. Sighting on our indoor range was interesting as it did not take much movement to make an effect down range. You can see how I chased it back and forth until I got the windage zeroed.
Sight radius is about 8", about the same as my High Standard target pistol. That, and the fact that the sights are "schiddy", does not help. The post is just as wide as the notch. More filing required. In my mind the final group sizes shown on the second target are acceptable for a rifle with the same sighting radius as a pistol. With the wedge, I am either 1" low or 1" high at 20 yards, I have it set for an inch high, so aimed for the bottom of the wight inner circle.
Rough opening had continued to be an issue. Yesterday, I took the bolt apart again and concentrated on rough spots, The cocking cam I had polished earlier, I concntrated on the firing pin and the little cocking indicator. As I mentioned earlier, the fireing pin had a lot of course and rough machining marks everywhere and also some forging marks. Just moving this back and forth, there were "sticky" spots. With a bit of red lead tracing agent, I identified some high spost and fliled those to relieve the high, tight spots. I also noted the slot milled in the end of the cap/safety block had very sharp edges, and it dragged on the safety mechanism. I gave it a going over, smothing the sharp deges and evening up the slot enough so that it no longer rubbs on thsafety when moving back and forth. Cleaned, oiled and reassembleld, it has made a real difference!!! Also, with the previous work on the bolt, it has settled in so with the bolt open, when I tim the rifle up and down, the bolt slids each way on it's own. Very happy in this respect!
The mag is another story; I have polished it up inside, and after many lip adjustments have it now working at about 50% vs the 10% (all but the first round), it needs more work yet. I wish I could find some 10 round CZ mags; my 455 mags run perfectly.
Any one have a line on an extractor spring clip or c-clip for one of these. Seems mines a bit weak. It’s a bit rusty as well. If I push the extractor in with a screw driver while opening the bolt it extracts fine. Otherwise casing get stuck in chamber about 90% of the time. I have a new extractor on route as mine looks like utter crap but have yet to get a line on the spring.
I sorted out my sight issue with a aftermarket 3/8” dove tail fibre optic sight with a locking screw.
If I can this thing cycling the accuracy I’m very happy with. This was only 25 yards with fed AutoMatch But shot off hand manually extracting each round with a screw driver. Top group was 9 rounds because Apperently I can’t count to ten bottom was 5 rounds
I sorted out my sight issue with a aftermarket 3/8” dove tail fibre optic sight with a locking screw.
If I can this thing cycling the accuracy I’m very happy with. This was only 25 yards with fed AutoMatch But shot off hand manually extracting each round with a screw driver. Top group was 9 rounds because Apperently I can’t count to ten bottom was 5 rounds
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Just wanted to let the guys in the thread know first I will be posting mine up for sale tonight/tomorrow. It’s still shoots and feeds no problem just the issue with the bolt coming out if you work it to hard. Maybe someone can fix it or use it for parts. I have had it long enough with it just sitting around.
Wouldn't you be able to get a refund ?
I bought it in 2014 so no I don’t think so
Could you make more money on parting it out ?
Yeah probably but I live 20 mins from town, so that a 40 min round trip to mail the part, plus the post office is only open untill 2:30 mon - Friday. It’s not worth my time and fuel. Just sell it as a full rifle and be done with it. Hell I have owned it for 12 years, shot it enough to know I would buy another one. And they were cheaper back then so I got my moneys worth out of it for what it is and how well it works with it’s issues.
Gah this things driving me mad.
It’s shooting reliably now. And groups very well (New sight stays in place). BUT Extraction is still an ongoing issue (new extractor is better but still maybe only 5% of the time). Bolt closure with a live round is very tight. Opening after firing is tight. And extraction is non existent.
Bore looks good on bore scope.
Could overly tight head space be an issue? How would one go about correcting this?
Next range trip I think I may carefully slide in a spent casing from one of my other rifles and see if it will extract that?
Any other suggestions?
It’s shooting reliably now. And groups very well (New sight stays in place). BUT Extraction is still an ongoing issue (new extractor is better but still maybe only 5% of the time). Bolt closure with a live round is very tight. Opening after firing is tight. And extraction is non existent.
Bore looks good on bore scope.
Could overly tight head space be an issue? How would one go about correcting this?
Next range trip I think I may carefully slide in a spent casing from one of my other rifles and see if it will extract that?
Any other suggestions?
Maybe the exctractor cut on the barrel isn't deep enough or is dirty/gummed up ?
Hence the exctractor cannot grab the rim of the round. That could also explain the tight bolt close while chambering.
Paint the extractor (with a colored marker) and run the bolt a few times, closing the action. Check for blank marks on the extractor, where the paint came off....
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If you are going to adjust for increased headspace, since shimming the barrel is out of the question, one need to polish the locking lug to give you that tiny bit of set back that is needed. But... before you do that, make sure everything else is smooth as friction/draggy parts can be mistaken for too little headspace/tightness see from my post above:
Wanting to keep using iron sights, but displeased with the ones that are on the rifle, I have orderd this set, just for the rear sight. Bullseye has them on sale right now: https://www.bullseyenorth.com/shop/...sight-set-green-rear-and-red-front-tg109-7257 
