O/U shotgun recommendation

Helping a friend to choose a new shotgun for sporting clays, the Citori composite is the best deal that I could find. For $2500, it has an adjustable comb, and a Citori will last hundreds of thousands of rounds if properly maintained. While some people don't like plastic stocks on an O/U, it is about $1000 cheaper that a Citori CX with adjustable comb. To be honest, I can pick up my old SX-3, and shoot pretty much the same scores at skeet as with my F-3 or K-20, but I really don't like picking up hulls, and I like shooting the 28 gauge and 410 for skeet.

Are you able change barrels on o/u shotguns if they wear out ?
 
Are you able change barrels on o/u shotguns if they wear out ?
Obviously , you have no idea how long it would take to wear out the barrels. You would go through many sets of firing pins and springs, the hinge joint would need to be repaired/replaced multiple times, and the rest of the mechanism would be worn out by then. We are talking around a million shots or more, how long would it take you to shoot a million shots? By the time you shoot that many shots , you will have spent enough on shotshells to purchase dozens of high quality shotguns.
 
Obviously , you have no idea how long it would take to wear out the barrels. You would go through many sets of firing pins and springs, the hinge joint would need to be repaired/replaced multiple times, and the rest of the mechanism would be worn out by then. We are talking around a million shots or more, how long would it take you to shoot a million shots? By the time you shoot that many shots , you will have spent enough on shotshells to purchase dozens of high quality shotguns.
While I agree with your response, I suspect the question was driven by, or at least considering the fact that so many high end sxs’s get sleeved due to thinning of the barrels. However, it is my understanding that those “gentlemen” that use them would have the bores “polished” after cleaning following each outing. It is my belief that this polishing is why so many of these old girls end up with thin “wore out” barrels. I am not convinced that barrels will wear any significant amount just from shooting and cleaning with solvent and patch.
 
While I agree with your response, I suspect the question was driven by, or at least considering the fact that so many high end sxs’s get sleeved due to thinning of the barrels. However, it is my understanding that those “gentlemen” that use them would have the bores “polished” after cleaning following each outing. It is my belief that this polishing is why so many of these old girls end up with thin “wore out” barrels. I am not convinced that barrels will wear any significant amount just from shooting and cleaning with solvent and patch.
We are not talking lightweight SxS shotguns, we are talking O/U clays guns. And most off those SxS shotguns are many,many years old, though high end builders, the steels weren't the same then, as with a modern clays shotgun.
 
Apparently I did not not make my point. I apologize.
If someone used abrasives to polish barrels after every use, and that caused barrels to thin out, then it's simply a case of stupidity on their part. As for the OP, he sounds fairly new to multi barreled shotguns, and likely isn't even aware that some SxS barrels have been sleeved.
 
fiber wads and lead streaks.

While I agree with your response, I suspect the question was driven by, or at least considering the fact that so many high end sxs’s get sleeved due to thinning of the barrels. However, it is my understanding that those “gentlemen” that use them would have the bores “polished” after cleaning following each outing. It is my belief that this polishing is why so many of these old girls end up with thin “wore out” barrels. I am not convinced that barrels will wear any significant amount just from shooting and cleaning with solvent and patch.
 
While I agree with your response, I suspect the question was driven by, or at least considering the fact that so many high end sxs’s get sleeved due to thinning of the barrels. However, it is my understanding that those “gentlemen” that use them would have the bores “polished” after cleaning following each outing. It is my belief that this polishing is why so many of these old girls end up with thin “wore out” barrels. I am not convinced that barrels will wear any significant amount just from shooting and cleaning with solvent and patches.
In the days of black powder and mercuric primers, corrosion and pitting of the bores was much more problematic. The solution was to hone the barrels when deemed necessary. Given that a well heeled "gentlemen" would often shoot many thousands of rounds a season, their guns suffered accordingly. Today with modern propellants and primers, the issue is largely diminished. Couple that with chrome plated bores and one can expect the bore to remain "as new" indefinitely.
 
In the days of black powder and mercuric primers, corrosion and pitting of the bores was much more problematic. The solution was to hone the barrels when deemed necessary. Given that a well heeled "gentlemen" would often shoot many thousands of rounds a season, their guns suffered accordingly. Today with modern propellants and primers, the issue is largely diminished. Couple that with chrome plated bores and one can expect the bore to remain "as new" indefinitely.
Exactly! Regardless of what happened way back in the blackpowder days, we are talking modern clays guns, with better steels, shooting modern propellants, and primers. Firing pins and springs will wear out, and eventually hinge joints may need attention, but barrels wearing out, aren't an issue.
 
Only “Zedshauwnh” knows what prompted his question. I was simply throwing out a possibility as to why he asked that question. I guess I should have just let him explain if he chooses and not offered a possible explanation (which clearly did not resonate). Perhaps someday I will learn English well enough to make a point that others can understand. I apologize for interfering.
 
Bit of an old thread, but I'll put in my two cents.

As others have said, what's more important than anything else is if the gun fits you. Choke selection, barrel length, trigger type, rib style, bead color... These are all secondary, and with enough practice, you can make anything work for you, and work well.

I was in a similar situation not long ago, looking for an O/U that I could use for trap, skeet, and 5 stand. In the end I chose a Citori CX, in 32", with the adjustable comb. I had had the opportunity to shoot a CX in 30", and I found it had been a very natural fit, once I got the adjustable comb set to my dimensions (I need fairly low combs).

I had talked with many people, and they had recommended the CXS in 30", but I chose a CX in 32" for the following reasons:

I prefered the raised rib style of the CX, which allowed for a more upright and open view of the field, which felt better to me.

The difference between a 30" and 32" is not as significant as some people make it seem. For starters, one gun in a 28" may swing just as well as another in 32", so raw numbers really don't tell you anything. To recommend a specific length with absolutely no other information would be like recommending a choke size before the person tells you what sport they're shooting... It's absolutely dependent on the gun specifics, and furthermore, on the shooter's biomechanics (arm length, how they hold the gun, stance, etc).

So really to compare, you need to be apples to apples and contrasting across the same model, right?

And finally, the "pointability" of the 32" felt better in my hands; out in the field, it is stable and very smooth, it just feels like it "locks on" to targets, both in trap and skeet, thanks to the additional sight radius... Not to mention that if you really want to keep the "swingability" of a 30" with the benefits of the 32", you can just swap out the steel chokes for titanium ones. I've done the actual math, and swapping these out will get you to exactly the same overall weight, center of gravity, and moment of inertia as a 30" on a 32", to the point that no person alive could tell them apart with a blindfold!
 
Bit of an old thread, but I'll put in my two cents.

As others have said, what's more important than anything else is if the gun fits you. Choke selection, barrel length, trigger type, rib style, bead color... These are all secondary, and with enough practice, you can make anything work for you, and work well.

I was in a similar situation not long ago, looking for an O/U that I could use for trap, skeet, and 5 stand. In the end I chose a Citori CX, in 32", with the adjustable comb. I had had the opportunity to shoot a CX in 30", and I found it had been a very natural fit, once I got the adjustable comb set to my dimensions (I need fairly low combs).

I had talked with many people, and they had recommended the CXS in 30", but I chose a CX in 32" for the following reasons:

I prefered the raised rib style of the CX, which allowed for a more upright and open view of the field, which felt better to me.

The difference between a 30" and 32" is not as significant as some people make it seem. For starters, one gun in a 28" may swing just as well as another in 32", so raw numbers really don't tell you anything. To recommend a specific length with absolutely no other information would be like recommending a choke size before the person tells you what sport they're shooting... It's absolutely dependent on the gun specifics, and furthermore, on the shooter's biomechanics (arm length, how they hold the gun, stance, etc).

So really to compare, you need to be apples to apples and contrasting across the same model, right?

And finally, the "pointability" of the 32" felt better in my hands; out in the field, it is stable and very smooth, it just feels like it "locks on" to targets, both in trap and skeet, thanks to the additional sight radius... Not to mention that if you really want to keep the "swingability" of a 30" with the benefits of the 32", you can just swap out the steel chokes for titanium ones. I've done the actual math, and swapping these out will get you to exactly the same overall weight, center of gravity, and moment of inertia as a 30" on a 32", to the point that no person alive could tell them apart with a blindfold!
I shot many Citori models over the years the Citori barrels are heavier than many other O/U shotguns, my 30" XS swings like a new 30" CX, and my 32" Blaser Vantage balances and swings very much like the Citori models with 30" barrels.
 
I shot many Citori models over the years the Citori barrels are heavier than many other O/U shotguns, my 30" XS swings like a new 30" CX, and my 32" Blaser Vantage balances and swings very much like the Citori models with 30" barrels.

Personally I don't like 32 inch Citori's and find they are muzzle heavy, not as muzzle heavy as the 32 inch Synergy but too heavy for me. 32 inch Beretta 682/692/etc barrels generally work well for me but I found they are a bit slow on close targets, on these guns I still prefer 30 inch barrels. The best compromise I've found for smoothness of swing and quickness for close in targets with 32 inch barrels is my Perazzi High Tech with it's extra beefy receiver which balances the long barrels nicely, it's as close to perfection as any gun I've shot.
 
Personally I don't like 32 inch Citori's and find they are muzzle heavy, not as muzzle heavy as the 32 inch Synergy but too heavy for me. 32 inch Beretta 682/692/etc barrels generally work well for me but I found they are a bit slow on close targets, on these guns I still prefer 30 inch barrels. The best compromise I've found for smoothness of swing and quickness for close in targets with 32 inch barrels is my Perazzi High Tech with it's extra beefy receiver which balances the long barrels nicely, it's as close to perfection as any gun I've shot.
I tried a Cynergy next to my Citori and also felt that it was more on the front heavy side, I wonder if it's because of the smaller (less tall) receiver.
 
The 725 with 32" barrels swings faster than a Cynergy or Citori with 32" barrels, but both feel slow compared to my Blaser F-3 with 32" barrels. I actually prefer stainless chokes in my F-3, because with the titanium chokes, the balance feels too far to the rear, even with the weights removed from the rear of the action. With no weights at all, the gun feels light and swings fast, and recoil isn't an issue.
 
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