Oil/Grease, semi auto pistol
- Thread starter MartyK2500
- Start date
When i lube something up there is always positive waves
Those are some very righteous and wholesome thoughts. On that same note, I have successfully used oil, grease and even dri lube during winter conditions. Just apply the appropriate amount in accordance with the weather / region you're in.
Yes grease is fine on 1911's as well.
- Location
- West Quebec
- Location
- West Quebec
Gee.. really !!!
- Location
- West Quebec
+1 Check
Snakehunter
CGN Regular
- Location
- Kenora, Ontario
I use Lucas "Red and Tacky" grease on my semi's rails. Never had a problem with it other than having crud stick to it. Just wipe off and reapply. I bought a big tube a few years ago and have given about 5 or 6 pill bottles worth of it to fellow club members and I still have over half a tube left. I was put onto the stuff by an IPSC shooter who swears by it, and now I swear by it too. My 2 cents...Glen
WOW! 5 pages in only 24 hours. You can sure tell it's winter time....
Marty, if the oil you use runs out of the gun you're using way too much. You only need to make the surfaces look shiny. If they look obviously wet then it's too much.
Same on the slides. For greasing instead of oiling it's like the old time Brylcream ad "Just a little dab'l do'ya". When I grease the slides I use an old toothbrush and dip the last few bristles into the grease so a lump the size of two black flies partaking of the mating ritual comes out on the bristles. That one dab gets brushed onto BOTH sides of the slide rails. The grease left in the brush is then smeared onto the hammer track on the slide and up onto the heel of the corner and the front face of the hammer. That's all it takes. And even then I may be using too much.
Marty, if the oil you use runs out of the gun you're using way too much. You only need to make the surfaces look shiny. If they look obviously wet then it's too much.
Same on the slides. For greasing instead of oiling it's like the old time Brylcream ad "Just a little dab'l do'ya". When I grease the slides I use an old toothbrush and dip the last few bristles into the grease so a lump the size of two black flies partaking of the mating ritual comes out on the bristles. That one dab gets brushed onto BOTH sides of the slide rails. The grease left in the brush is then smeared onto the hammer track on the slide and up onto the heel of the corner and the front face of the hammer. That's all it takes. And even then I may be using too much.
BCRider, if i do go with a minimalist aproach, could it be that i have to re-oil during a session?
When i put the bare minimum as you desribed, at the end of day the pistol would be really dry, and the rails had residue of dryed up lube.
This was using Mpro. We have to keep in mind that these sessions we're 300-500 round ones, with some rapid fire along the way.
And yes , people are bored to get 6 pages up in 12 hours about lubing a pistol
Black Sunshine, everything in carcinogenic today, from the pesticied apples at the grocery to the air we breathe in the cities, i do not think a dab of oil on my fingers will bring my death. All the beer i drink and chicken wings i eat will take me out before gun oil.
When i put the bare minimum as you desribed, at the end of day the pistol would be really dry, and the rails had residue of dryed up lube.
This was using Mpro. We have to keep in mind that these sessions we're 300-500 round ones, with some rapid fire along the way.
And yes , people are bored to get 6 pages up in 12 hours about lubing a pistol
Black Sunshine, everything in carcinogenic today, from the pesticied apples at the grocery to the air we breathe in the cities, i do not think a dab of oil on my fingers will bring my death. All the beer i drink and chicken wings i eat will take me out before gun oil.
If the grease contains Molybendenum, and isn't too heavy it will work fine, some bearing greases are quite heavy compared to others.
I have a couple types here, and the thicker ones would be stiff in the cold, and possibly slow the slides down, especially if you apply a bit too much.
- Location
- West Quebec
Everything causes cancer.. just don't take a bath in the stuff
I have shoot at a indoor range. I will keep that in mind if I ever hit the out door range in cold weather. Indoor range is 10 min from my house closest out door range is at least 30 min. How ever my buddy at work is always shooting at the out door range never has a issue.
I haven't used MPro so I can't say what it's like. I do know that using the modern day synthetic grease I've got that the rails are still lubricated well enough at the end of a couple of 200 round days. Some has gone away but there is still enough to do the job. If I use oil instead of grease then yes, I do find that by the time I've shot something up around 200 to 250 rounds that the oil left is very minimal and the gun certainly does feel drier than I like. Which is why I shifted over to grease.
Even with the way the rails feel though don't think that the metal is totally dry. Years back in an article in a motorcycle magazine on lubrication an oil engineer stated that a fully functional lubricating and corrosion protective film is produced by one single drop of oil spread out over a square foot of surface area. And there most certainly is not a whole square foot of area inside a gun even allowing for all the shapes, nooks and crannies.
Modern oils that are not cooking oils or intended for wood finishing simply don't "dry out" or burn dry in anything less than many years of being exposed or during seriously hot conditions. As in hot enough that you would need welding gloves to hold onto your gun. So the dry crusty bits you see are likely a gunk formed from oil and fouling residue. And with all the fouling that blows back it's no wonder.
Part of the issue is that in our lack of appreciation for how little it takes to lubricate and protect that we slather the stuff on until we feel it have an effect. But that effect we feel is called "viscous drag". And what the excess does, if it doesn't simply drain away, is slow down the gun by providing a shock absorber like drag. A good example is walking then running in air vs walking and running in a swimming pool. Walking is fairly easy in either. But running in the pool becomes very hard vs running in air. Butter enough oil or grease on the gun and it becomes very much like trying to run in the pool.
Another example of all this is to use some brake cleaner or other full degreaser to totally dry your gun. I mean totally grease and oil free. Now cycle the slide and feel how sticky it is. That's the metal of the rails and other parts binding together due to no lubrication. Now put on the lightest possible amount of oil. For this I mean two drops on a cleaning patch. Rub the patch vigorously into the rails simply to ensure it is spread out evenly and on the hammer slide track of the slide if your gun has a hammer. Now cycle the gun and feel how much more slick it is. That is all it really needs.
If you add more to where the slide feels slick and quiet what you've done isn't lubricate it any better. Instead you have added enough viscous cushioning that you simply can't feel the slight rattle produced by the clearances. But while the thin film will hold onto the metal tenaciously a thick film is simply blown or shook off until it becomes a thin film. Which is why a generously oiled gun becomes dry feeling quickly. It's not really dry, it just doesn't have a thick cushioning film any longer so it FEELS dry to us when we rack the slide. But that thin film that holds on for dear life is still there and doing the job.
no one use Eezox?
the RCMP tested many "high tech" lube in the past, independent test from a real laboratory, and Eezox was the best hands down in term of friction reduction and rust protection. they didnt like it at the end only because, as per the manufacturers instruction, require drying.
cops are lazy, so they took some other company with an inferior product instead.
you can find the lab test manual thingy online.
personally thats what i use on all my guns.
the RCMP tested many "high tech" lube in the past, independent test from a real laboratory, and Eezox was the best hands down in term of friction reduction and rust protection. they didnt like it at the end only because, as per the manufacturers instruction, require drying.
cops are lazy, so they took some other company with an inferior product instead.
you can find the lab test manual thingy online.
personally thats what i use on all my guns.
I used to use the tears of a crying anti but I found them to be extremely corrosive to the soul.
Now I use in no particular order,
Eexox
Lucas gun oil
Chainsaw bar oil (new experiment I just started)
Motomaster bearing grease
White lithium grease (tends to dry out and get sticky)
Synthetic motor oil
I would like to find some gun butter
Now I use in no particular order,
Eexox
Lucas gun oil
Chainsaw bar oil (new experiment I just started)
Motomaster bearing grease
White lithium grease (tends to dry out and get sticky)
Synthetic motor oil
I would like to find some gun butter
