Opinions on Norinco M14
- Thread starter 1ronM@n
- Start date
"What's better a Norinco M14 or a Poly?"
I'd buy a Polytech from the 2009 shipment.
They're everywhere right now.
I wouldn't buy an older Norinco right, say from 2007.
I do think the Polytechs are better quality.
This month, Marstar will have the new Norincos.
They should be of as good quality, cheaper and more stuff along with them so probably your best value all around.
I'd buy a Polytech from the 2009 shipment.
They're everywhere right now.
I wouldn't buy an older Norinco right, say from 2007.
I do think the Polytechs are better quality.
This month, Marstar will have the new Norincos.
They should be of as good quality, cheaper and more stuff along with them so probably your best value all around.
So you #### don't fall off.
The reason I'm throwing the BUY TWO approach is that spare parts are not available in great numbers! Also for the $ 1K , you get TWO boomsticks and almost HALF of a Sproingfield M1A. Once you get the Springfield which are great rifles, you might not have money left for practice (you want to get better don't you?) ammo or tweaks so that you can look like an Operator from Azzkrakistan (gotta get a Leupold also).
Next reason I'm pushing for the "BUY TWO" approach is that ONE day we are gonna be looking around at each other saying, "Mxtherfxcker! I shoulda bought TWO of them when they were that cheeeep."
Back in 1986, I bought Israeli surplus M14's for $ 400. I competed with them and tweaked them all. Yes Ironman... they rattled WORSE than the current Norc and Poly M14's And that's why we did tweak/tighten them up.
And all of us said, "Czcksxcker! Why didn't we buy FOUR of them when we had a chance?"
So to ensure that yer #### don't fall off, get out and buy one (or two) !!
Barney
Next reason I'm pushing for the "BUY TWO" approach is that ONE day we are gonna be looking around at each other saying, "Mxtherfxcker! I shoulda bought TWO of them when they were that cheeeep."
Back in 1986, I bought Israeli surplus M14's for $ 400. I competed with them and tweaked them all. Yes Ironman... they rattled WORSE than the current Norc and Poly M14's
And that's why we did tweak/tighten them up. And all of us said, "Czcksxcker! Why didn't we buy FOUR of them when we had a chance?"
So to ensure that yer #### don't fall off, get out and buy one (or two) !!
Barney
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
And after you attend Hungry's M-14 clinic, yours too can look like this:
Shoots every bit as good as it looks thanks to Hungry's tweaking tips.
Definitely BUY TWO!
Shoots every bit as good as it looks thanks to Hungry's tweaking tips.
Definitely BUY TWO!
Heat treat the Norinco Parts
I have a buddy of mine who runs what I am lead to believe is the only business specifically licensed to perform gun refinishing in Ontario. He specializes in ww1&2 stuff but can do most anything. You would be amazed at what poor condition some things come in compared to how they leave, which is usually MUCH better than new.
Norinco M1As have a reputation for not lasting very long due to the poor quality of the parts. Recievers are the exeption as they are very hard and are actually the best part of the firearm.
Anyway, my buddy who does the gun refinishing is quite clever and took the parts out of a Norinco M1a and had the parts heat treated to match GI hardness specs. Since he does parkerizing, he re finished everything and put it all back together. Now the parts are great. Bottom line is the cost of heat treating is only about $150, plus maybe another $150 to parkerize. Another option is to have the parts done with black oxide, which is usually done by the heat treat shop at a per pound rate - which is quite cheap. If you dont mine doing the hand work sanding and polishing everything, you can do this yourself. OR if you can afford it, I can set you up with my buddy's number and have him do it for you.
After the heat treating you will be less than half the cost of a springfield but will be 90% of the way there.
I have a buddy of mine who runs what I am lead to believe is the only business specifically licensed to perform gun refinishing in Ontario. He specializes in ww1&2 stuff but can do most anything. You would be amazed at what poor condition some things come in compared to how they leave, which is usually MUCH better than new.
Norinco M1As have a reputation for not lasting very long due to the poor quality of the parts. Recievers are the exeption as they are very hard and are actually the best part of the firearm.
Anyway, my buddy who does the gun refinishing is quite clever and took the parts out of a Norinco M1a and had the parts heat treated to match GI hardness specs. Since he does parkerizing, he re finished everything and put it all back together. Now the parts are great. Bottom line is the cost of heat treating is only about $150, plus maybe another $150 to parkerize. Another option is to have the parts done with black oxide, which is usually done by the heat treat shop at a per pound rate - which is quite cheap. If you dont mine doing the hand work sanding and polishing everything, you can do this yourself. OR if you can afford it, I can set you up with my buddy's number and have him do it for you.
After the heat treating you will be less than half the cost of a springfield but will be 90% of the way there.
It's true. M-14 Deficiency Syndrome can cause acute spontaneous genital disconnection. Doubling up on the dose is the best way to avoid this.
LOL - no offense, but your buddy doesn't know sh!t.
No heat treating will make A Norinco headspace properly, or make the POS rear sight work any better. In fact, the ONLY parts I can think of that would benefit from new heat treatment on a Norinco are the trigger, hammer and their pins. The rest is good to go.
For less money than new park and heat treat, you can just replace the mentioned parts with USGI ones.
No Offense either Claven2, but someboby certainly does not know sh!t!
Ya make a lo@d m@uth statement like that ... Back it up dude.
Where in Canada do you get the USGI parts and what do they cost?
Show us all the $ math how it breaks down cheaper.
Marstar has some garand parts(trigger?, hammer and their pins) that work.
http://www.marstar.ca/ac-M1G/index.shtm
Since he was talking about replacing those specifically,
Hammer In Stock $29.00
GAR-008 Hammer Pin In Stock $4.00
GAR-009 Trigger Pin In Stock $5.00
If I'd buy an M-305 and stick a real nice scope mount and scope to it and shoot it from the bench, what kind of accuracy would I get?
Just a mount and scope, no other mods. Shooting with great support.
4"/100yards?
3" /100yards?
2"/100yards?
1,5"/100yards?
Better?
And what are these "inexpensive mods" that will make the rifle more accurate? What kind of accuracy could I expect after that?
Just a mount and scope, no other mods. Shooting with great support.
4"/100yards?
3" /100yards?
2"/100yards?
1,5"/100yards?
Better?
And what are these "inexpensive mods" that will make the rifle more accurate? What kind of accuracy could I expect after that?
LOL. Marstar has all the trigger internals you need for dirt cheap. It's not rocket science, but of the thousands of M305 owners in Canada, your buddy is the ONLY guy I have ever heard of who re-heat treated his parts before pronouncing them useable.
Most other parts are available from either brownells or 762firearms.com if you are so inclined to replace them. Frankly, the only other parts that are worth replacing are the sights and bolt - and not for being too soft. The sights are just poorly made on a Norinco and GI sights are better, tighter, more reliable and the bolt only needs to be changed if the headspace is bad.
See Lone Wolf's post above. $38 and you're good to go.
My stone-stock 'Rinco shot groups about 2" wide and about 6"-to-8" tall. With the addition of a couple of pieces of a matchbook under the front of the receiver (to apply some tension on the forend) the groups got to about 2"-to-2.5". This is shooting the Austrian ball ammo, using a Springfield Gen-3 clone mount and a 4x-16x scope.
It should be noted that the temporary bedding (the matchbook cover) didn't last as the soft "chu-wood" stock compressed leaving the forend untensioned the next time I took it to the range.
The inexpensive mods are generally:
-Indexing the barrel (if needed).
-Tweaking or replacing the rear sight (if you are going to use irons)
-epoxy bedding the action (yup, even in a chu-wood stock it makes a difference).
-A 'National Match'-type recoil spring guide.
-Shimming the gas cylinder assembly.
Party on Garth!
38$ huh????? get real dude.
38$ Plus what??
Bolt, sights and every other darn thing at additional cost. By the time you are done you will be way over the $150 with shipping, duty and whatever - if you can actually get the RIGHT parts. As I said in my original post, you need to hand work the parts. When that is done - at no cost by the gun owner - he can get these things to work very well if he pays attention to what he's doing.
If a guy is not mechanically inclined, my buddy is, and when he's done with it it will be mint. Norinco parts or not.
