Optics Review for the newer Precision Shooter

It is often a misconception that you need really high magnification for long distance shooting. Fact is, in a day when you have any sort of sunlight , mirage becomes a huge factor. I think I am not alone when I say that I frequently turn my scopes way back to as little as 15 - 20 power for shoot in heavy mirage conditions. Having saif that, crappy optics and mirage are a double whammy,

I aree with the leupold comments. They have not really done anything to keep up with what the market wants in long distance shooting, but i think they cater more to the hunting crowd, but I have a VXIII in 8.5-25 and it has clarity and contrast that meet or exceed my Nightforce and March scopes
 
High magnification add to difficulty i find, i wont be satisfied and good to shoot until my crossairs are completly motionless on the target with 36X sometimes you cant shoot past 300 metres but when conditions are ideal the only factor is the shooter, it is hard to be completly still but with concentration it is doable and rewarding... JP.
 
So if your you can see your cross hairs move because of high magnification, does that mean at low magnification that they aren't moving?

With low magnification they will move the same, let say 10X but the micrometrie of the crossairs is highly more visible at 36X, you realise your are moving a lot so there it force me for added concentration to weld the crossairs to the + of the target, then the 6 ounces trigger close the deal, some days it is impossible to stop the movement, but on other days you just are in your bubble and the concentration seem to get high very fast thus better precision... JP.
 
High magnification add to difficulty i find, i wont be satisfied and good to shoot until my crossairs are completly motionless on the target with 36X sometimes you cant shoot past 300 metres but when conditions are ideal the only factor is the shooter, it is hard to be completly still but with concentration it is doable and rewarding... JP.

With all the great rests and bags, stocks, shooting techniques, the crosshair shouldn't be moving on your target even with a super mag scope.

Jerry
 
Great review / I'm looking at buying my first scope and your reviews were very helpfull!

Thanks for the feedback - most appreciated. I like to review gear and put down my thoughts in writing, I am no expert but I've learned a lot and hopefully my reviews on various types of firearms/glass will, if nothing else, prevent people repeating my mistakes :)
 
I too am in the market for a new scope for my TRG-22. There seems to be some Vortex bashing, are there any good reasons not to buy one? I've been looking at the Razor HD 5-20 x50. I can't get my hands on any real good scope to look through it, there are only hunting scopes around here. The Razor has tons of great features, and my other choice is Nightforce, but about 95% of their scopes are second focal plane! I know the difference between ffp and sfp, but in true shooting applications (not F class though), which is better!?! NF is on most military sniper scopes in North America, so it must be all that!!! I'm stuck!! FFP or SFP...
 
I'm in the same boat as Recce Guy01
I am debating between a Vortex and a Sightron
Nightforce sounds good but is out of my price range
It's a toss up between SFP and FFP, plus I am also hearing of reliability issues with Vortex
6.5x - 20x or 25x with a mil dot, or mil type TMR reticle, FFP preferred is what I am on the scrounge for
I have looked through a Sightron and love the glass, but like some of the features on the Vortex
 
My issue with vortex is that the turret tracking is not user friendly. Specifically, the reticle can hit the side of the scope tube and I've seen 2 different PST scopes track in an arc instead of straight up and down.

If you're not using the extremes of the reticle (windage/elevation) adjustment, this is not an issue. For me however, this is the reason why I prefer not to buy Vortex (despite everything else about them being so attractive).

A good alternative to Vortex I've found is SWFA, but they are very difficult to find here in Canada.
 
... I'm stuck!! FFP or SFP...

When you shoot, do you bring a rangefinder?

Do you shoot on "crown" land or on a range?

Do you want to use your scope to ever range a target? How far away would you be ranging?

Do you play with mag settings when you shoot at various distances or just leave at one?

Do you shoot at night?

Answering these questions for YOUR style of shooting will determine whether FFP or SFP is important/useable to you. Also, some of the features put on scopes.

A lot of it is fluff that very few shooters exploit.

Jerry
 
Jerry
Glad to hear your input on this
I always take a rangefinder when I go shooting
I fire at both ranges and crown land
I have done some ranging using my existing scope but find it tricky past 400yds, would like to have the ability in case my rangefinder is unusable
I will typically crank my scope up to max magnification for anything over 500 yds, at least for smaller targets
Haven't fired at night yet but would like to try
I have browsed your website on several occassions and very nearly bought one of the Sightron FFP's in 6-24x50 with mil type picket fence reticle
That's about the best scope that has come close to my requirements and budget so far
Still looking though
 
FFP really makes sense if your task demands that you use ALL the mag range AND must range targets at varying mag levels.

When I am long range shooting, the mag rarely if ever changes. If I did want to use my reticle to range, I would just need to know what the subtension was at the most used mag level and 1 lower mag. AND that subtension, I would check against a tape measure at known distance. Don't trust what the manual says.... confirm

In general, our eyes don't work so good for reticle subtension thus ranging at long distances. The angular differences are very small so you can be way off in your math for a small errors in measurement. Most suggest that reticle subtension starts to get iffy beyond 600yds... I think you can go much further but you need the reticle and practise to get it right. I have botched up enough to know, it is not something you just go do.

Reticle styles and thickness play a massive role in this error. Here I much prefer the picket fence reticle like the Sightron LRMOA. Because you are dealing with a thin line, you can bracket an object so much better then using a couple of big fat dots.

If all you want is minute of APC, no problem. Something the size of a milk jug gets a whole lot more difficult. Pop can, forget it.

For many cartridges, the drop beyond 600yds becomes enough that if you are off by 25 to 50yds, you are going to miss by a few moa's. That can lead to a wounded animal or missed target.

Yes, practise, practise, practise.... helps but give me a quality rangefinder anyday.

The Sales of FFP scopes have been solid and the Sightron offers superb value. For those that subscribe to this process, an awesome choice. But for those with SFP scopes, they can do the same thing if they know how their gear works.

In fact, the process of reticle subtension changing with mag CAN help you range without the math. Very old tech used since post WWII. Know what the subtension of a certain size relates to the mag on the scope. Dial the mag until the object is bracketed, read the mag which relates to distance, engage.

If you look at scopes from the 70's and 80's, a very common feature. Obviously, it was a great idea that fell flat on its face. Likely because optical subtension is by itself, an iffy process.

Eeeny, meeny....

Jerry
 
If you plan to shoot at 600+ then FFP scopes become an issue. At 1000m the reticle in a FFP scope completely covers a 12" by 12" steel plate. I am not the greatest shooter but I sure as hell can't hit something that I can't see.
 
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