Painting USGI stock advice.
- Thread starter asphalt599
- Start date
Just did a search and hardly anything relevant showed up that had replies to it.
I really hate the search function.
I hear a lot of people using Krylon primer and paint. Is this a good option?
What sheen do you suggest?
I really hate the search function.
I hear a lot of people using Krylon primer and paint. Is this a good option?
What sheen do you suggest?
hi asphalt...
I painted my USGI stock with krylon textured outdoor patio furniture paint.. i painted it green and it has a nice texture to it.. it has a nice synthetic look to it..
i'm thinking of going black soon.. the black paint i'm thinking of is the same stuff and it has little specs of white in it.. still nice texture for a good grip.. i'll post a pic for ya later.
I painted my USGI stock with krylon textured outdoor patio furniture paint.. i painted it green and it has a nice texture to it.. it has a nice synthetic look to it..
i'm thinking of going black soon.. the black paint i'm thinking of is the same stuff and it has little specs of white in it.. still nice texture for a good grip.. i'll post a pic for ya later.
Thanks. I would love to see pics
I have used the wrinkle paint from brownell almost two decades ago on one of my hunting rifle (fiberglass stock) besides it has a texture more grippy surface it still held up pretty good.
It might not on par compare to the epoxy base finish but its easy to use and relatively inexpensive for $8 a spray can.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7538/Product/WRINKLE_PAINT
It might not on par compare to the epoxy base finish but its easy to use and relatively inexpensive for $8 a spray can.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7538/Product/WRINKLE_PAINT
heres a couple of pics.. this is the same stock with 2 different paint jobs.. the first was the camo scheme... the paint wore off after a while, but i dragged it thru the bush for 3 deer seasons..
the second paint job is with the patio furniture paint.. if you download the pic and zoom in, you can see the texture a bit.. this is holding up really well, but i'm still thinking of painting it black.
the second paint job is with the patio furniture paint.. if you download the pic and zoom in, you can see the texture a bit.. this is holding up really well, but i'm still thinking of painting it black.
no clear coat on either paint job.. I change the paint scheme every few years, so i don't bother with it.. it doesn't actually wear off so much as it just chips and scratches.. i go thru some nasty stuff with it when i hunt deer. the last paint job with the patio furniture paint is very durable.
Krylon works
that's a nice pattern Plink.. did you do that? I didnt realize you were an artist... i figured you as more of a poet or dancer.
You have to sand blast your stock for the best bind for the paint .
Look in the dealer section i started a post ''were to get duracoat or armacoat '' some good info there.
The first thing if you are going to use armacoat is it goes on thin and will showcase any imperfections .
But it does look good and is strong and still flexiable.
It is about $40 for 4oz hope this helps.
I think they will do the blast & paint for $100 ,And it must be airbrushed or sprayed with an air gun !
Look in the dealer section i started a post ''were to get duracoat or armacoat '' some good info there.
The first thing if you are going to use armacoat is it goes on thin and will showcase any imperfections .
But it does look good and is strong and still flexiable.
It is about $40 for 4oz hope this helps.
I think they will do the blast & paint for $100 ,And it must be airbrushed or sprayed with an air gun !
sandblasting fiberglass is a bad idea hehehe
I do not recommend it at all and have seen first hand the damage it can do real fast to both my custom stocks, mcmillans and usgi fiberglass. I have already seen a couple of my stocks that were sent in for coating and the outfit bead blasted them and in my opinion ruined the finish and in one case eroded the surface of the stock in several areas. The actual painted finish looked fabulous, but it did not hide the cratering from the blasting media.
if one of my custom stocks is sand/ bead blast prepped for a painted finish..... it's lifetime warranty is void.
so what does a guy do??
use a mild solvent wash/laquer thinner and steel wool in circular motions and fine tooth brush type brush for crevaces and checkering ,to remove any existing painted finish. Prep surface with solvent wash 202 ...... then apply your dura coat or arma coat finish as per it's directions.
if surface is in need of further refinishing....... see below in my comments on using a mouse sander
As for Krylon
I have been refinishing, customizing and custom painting usgi fiberglass stocks for CGN'ers since august 2008. I don't know the exact number of stocks i have crafted or painted that are now in the hands of cgn'ers...... let's just say that it is for sure well over 200, and many of those where 1 of a kind custom camo jobs.... all done with krylon.
for refinishing or removing odl surface from your usgi stock.....
A Mouse Sander is the only tool i trust, that and the dremel with one of these soft bristle bits for cleaning the checkering. The mouse sander's function is that it can sand the entire stock by using it's attachments and it does not leave scratches due to the way it vibrates the sandpaper on the stocks surface. Start with 80 grit to remove old paint and smoothen any ridges. Hit with 1 coat of Krylon grey primer
then under bright light, look for blemishes, scratches, cracks, dents and gouges that you may want to repair. The first coat of primer will high light any blemishes.
for this use a two part epoxy paste, my recommendation is GOOP marine fix fast, availlable at marine hardware stores and at REVY. sand repairs with 60/80 grit and then prep sand entire stock with 120 grit. wipe down with solvent wash to remove any dust.
**** this is where the warnings come in...... do not breathe the epoxy putty dust and Krylon is a lead based paint..... don't breathe the dust from sanding this stuff and wash hands after dealing with the dust
temperature is the key for the painting step with an indoor temp of 70 F being optimum
once filling and resanding is done move on to 3 even coats of primer to the outside. BE carefull not to build up too much paint inside of action inlet and receiver/trigger bearing points.
Next, inspect for primer build up, dribbles, runs ect, correct with 220 grit blending with circular motion, follow up with stel wool in same fashion to blend any sandpaper scratches . follow up any repairs with a careful light coat of primer.
next apply your colour, krylon Camo ultra flat is awesome stuff, comes in kahki, brown , black and OD olive.
apply 3 even coats, about a 1/2 hour between coats in a 70 F temp room.
then after 24 hours, again in a 70F room, apply 4 even coats of REVY brand Matte Clear Laquer, 1/2 hour apart and then let cure for 72 hours.
follow these steps and you will have a reasonably durable Krylon finish.
I've got two rifles painted from muzzle to buttpad entirely in a custom camo scheme and i hunt hard with htose rifles. Going on year 2 with the one and year 4 with the other. some rubs here and there, but nothing needing recoating yet.
the beauty of krylon is in it's availlability and it's ease of use. Allowing easy hassle free touch ups when needed. Heck the entire body on my jeep yj took 10 cans of primer and 14 cans of matte black to cover it temporarily till i get it professionally done..... but a full year and a half later...... she's still matte black
