Powder coat 45acp.

f55

f55

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45 acp 230gn powder coat bullets.

I tried powder coating some bullets over the weekend and shot 15 rounds this evening.

6.2gn unique, 1.210 AOL.

excuse the editing in 2nd picture.

I think this is just powder left over but would like second opinion.

pc45.jpg


Top one is after 15 rounds, bottom after 1 pass with dry patch.

pcafter.jpg
 
I know nothing of the cost effectiveness of this, would be nice to know how much cost it adds, second what are the abrasive/corrosive properties of the agents involved in the powder coating?

Interesting concept!
 
After doing some more reading it seems this powder isnt the best thing to use, infact it may be toxic.

The powder is TGIC based and even though this was done outside, risks seem to much.

I used info from castbullets and 300blk site but maybe should have checked out the powder before using it.

Even though its cured well I can not tell if its going to flake after shooting.

My pc experience was very short, try at your own RISK.
 
f55 said:
After doing some more reading it seems this powder isnt the best thing to use, infact it may be toxic.

The powder is TGIC based and even though this was done outside, risks seem to much.

I used info from castbullets and 300blk site but maybe should have checked out the powder before using it.

Even though its cured well I can not tell if its going to flake after shooting.

My pc experience was very short, try at your own RISK.
Click to expand...


smash a bullet with a hammer until flat, look for flakes. from the little bit of reading i've done there was 1 colour/brand that was horrible (red or black from harbor freight) but the rest worked great.
 
Spawn-Inc said:
smash a bullet with a hammer until flat, look for flakes. from the little bit of reading i've done there was 1 colour/brand that was horrible (red or black from harbor freight) but the rest worked great.
Click to expand...

I did the hammer test and it didnt flake, but that’s not the issue, TGIC is, as i have read toxic. Powder coat based on TGIC are banned in Europe but still powders based on tgic are legal in usa/canada.

My mistake for jumping in with out reading more in to it.
 
I just can't guess why you would do this ? Unless you're mis-naming this, using ' electro static paint ' finishing on a bullet seems wildly wasteful. Powder coating adds way to much thickness to be remotely safe. The temps you need to bake it at risk the core integrity of the lead bullet. Then you need to resize a second time to make sure you're not way over spec on the thickness of the powder. All of which would make one ask, why not just get jacketed or copper clad ? they'd be just as clean if not cleaner with alot less work and risk, and cost.
 
MTLGUN said:
I just can't guess why you would do this ? Unless you're mis-naming this, using ' electro static paint ' finishing on a bullet seems wildly wasteful. Powder coating adds way to much thickness to be remotely safe. The temps you need to bake it at risk the core integrity of the lead bullet. Then you need to resize a second time to make sure you're not way over spec on the thickness of the powder. All of which would make one ask, why not just get jacketed or copper clad ? they'd be just as clean if not cleaner with alot less work and risk, and cost.
Click to expand...

The bullets are sized to .452 (you size after coating only) but thats not an issue here, i wanted to try it out and the cost with pc coating for a lead bullet is 5 times less than any jacket bullet. The process itself is easy but the health risks are not worth any cost.

This is not new, its been done in the shooting community for many years, i guess they either accept the risk or have found non-tgic powders to work with.
 
f55 said:
After doing some more reading it seems this powder isnt the best thing to use, infact it may be toxic.

The powder is TGIC based and even though this was done outside, risks seem to much.

I used info from castbullets and 300blk site but maybe should have checked out the powder before using it.

Even though its cured well I can not tell if its going to flake after shooting.

My pc experience was very short, try at your own RISK.
Click to expand...
Is the powder coating more toxic than lead ? :)
 
f55 said:
I did the hammer test and it didnt flake, but that’s not the issue, TGIC is, as i have read toxic. Powder coat based on TGIC are banned in Europe but still powders based on tgic are legal in usa/canada.

My mistake for jumping in with out reading more in to it.
Click to expand...

i'm sure shooting is a hell of alot worse. there are many things in life that will kill us, i don't think i would be to worried about the powder coating. and worse case wear a mask.

MTLGUN said:
I just can't guess why you would do this ? Unless you're mis-naming this, using ' electro static paint ' finishing on a bullet seems wildly wasteful. Powder coating adds way to much thickness to be remotely safe. The temps you need to bake it at risk the core integrity of the lead bullet. Then you need to resize a second time to make sure you're not way over spec on the thickness of the powder. All of which would make one ask, why not just get jacketed or copper clad ? they'd be just as clean if not cleaner with alot less work and risk, and cost.
Click to expand...

how is it wasteful? the temps won't effect the bullet, if anything it will make it harder. sizing isn't any issue either.

it's the new thing in casting bullets, i suspect it will be here for a long time, but i don't think traditional lubing techniques will be tossed to the side.
 
Is that coating from the NECO COAT kits?????

It's easily applied, with the right equipment. Uses a black powder (molybdenum) that can be toxic if taken in quantity. I haven't heard about heating it though.

I have one of those kits and once the moly powder is applied, it is locked in place with Carnuba wax. If it's applied properly, it has a nice shiny appearance, like those in the pics.

Its purpose, is to eliminate fouling from copper jackets. Berger used it on a commercial basis but it was blue.

I tried it in a regular hunting rifle and in a Hunter Bench Rest Rifle. It did what it said it would do but when it came time to clean, it took a long time to clean. The moly left traces behind that were almost impossible to get rid of and it took several more fouling rounds to get the barrel to settle down to shoot consistently.

Some people claim it increases pressures. I never noticed that but I did notice a slight increase in average velocities with the same accuracy load. It acts like a lubricant and shouldn't increase velocities at all.

I never thought about it for lead bullets. I will have to try coating a few black powder rifle bullets and see what happens. Might just be the best kept secret of the year.
 
bearhunter said:
Is that coating from the NECO COAT kits?????

It's easily applied, with the right equipment. Uses a black powder (molybdenum) that can be toxic if taken in quantity. I haven't heard about heating it though.

I have one of those kits and once the moly powder is applied, it is locked in place with Carnuba wax. If it's applied properly, it has a nice shiny appearance, like those in the pics.

Its purpose, is to eliminate fouling from copper jackets. Berger used it on a commercial basis but it was blue.

I tried it in a regular hunting rifle and in a Hunter Bench Rest Rifle. It did what it said it would do but when it came time to clean, it took a long time to clean. The moly left traces behind that were almost impossible to get rid of and it took several more fouling rounds to get the barrel to settle down to shoot consistently.

Some people claim it increases pressures. I never noticed that but I did notice a slight increase in average velocities with the same accuracy load. It acts like a lubricant and shouldn't increase velocities at all.

I never thought about it for lead bullets. I will have to try coating a few black powder rifle bullets and see what happens. Might just be the best kept secret of the year.
Click to expand...

it's powder coat paint for cars, metal, etc etc. not moly.

crap ton of info here, http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?184-Coatings-and-Alternatives&
 
I dry tumbled some Lee 358-158-RF with Harbor Freight blue and it worked real good. Loaded them over 16gr. Lil'Gun for my Rossi m92 bit have not had a chance to rey them out yet. I did shoot 10 ESPC with HF black 405gr boolits last year in my 45/70 with no signs of leading but they were just Trailboss loads iirc. Even though I have a powder coating gun, I do prefer doing the boolits with the dry tumble method. Much cleaner, as I have no powder over spray to contend with.

 
I tumbled these in my tumbler for 10 min, poured in to a sieve to get rid of excess powder. They then went in to a toaster oven for 10 min at 400.

The process is simple and cheap, the powder (1lb) is $20 shipped, toaster oven was $30, sieve $1

I did 100 bullets and used very little powder (some claim 2000 bullets can be done with 1lb)

I am going to try and find some non-tgic before doing any more.
 
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I shoot a lot of cast bullets, but know very little about casting or lubing - I buy them lubed and ready to shoot.

The powder coat replaces the traditional wax lubes? Is this because it performs better? Or makes shooting cleaner? Whats the scoop?
 
TargetAcquired said:
I shoot a lot of cast bullets, but know very little about casting or lubing - I buy them lubed and ready to shoot.

The powder coat replaces the traditional wax lubes? Is this because it performs better? Or makes shooting cleaner? Whats the scoop?
Click to expand...

I shoot 9,45,44,300 blackout cast. The main concern is leading. Powder coating is supposed to get rid of.leading issue and is also cleaner to shoot.

It's not cost much to try. I just wanted to make sure I get tgic free powder.

It's seems tgic powders are nasty, causing skin irritation and other health issues. Tgic powders are most common PC coats and are usually cheaper than tgic free powders.
 
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