Powder Coat Source?

flashman2 said:
I should try the phantom glass black. It, and bonded bright chrome are the two polyurethane powders I got, with original mirror black and red baron for polyester TGIC.

The bonded bright chrome works great, thin application and it sticks perfectly hammering test bullets flat. I only narrowly give the edge to the polyester TGIC as the coats seem more uniform and easier to apply free from thick spots. I use a few handfuls of airsoft BBs and maybe a tablespoon of powder in a plastic container.

Certainly much easier than messing with traditional lube, and orders of magnitude cheaper.
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Phantom glass black is probably the best powder I have use if I want a good thick coating to increase bullet dia. It will easily add .002 on the first coat and I have multi-coated lots of .452 pistol bullets up to .458 rifle bullet size with it.
 
Rivardo said:
Thats a great idea! Im gonna try so local shops in my area i found on a Google search.
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One thing I forgot to warn against in my first post...If they offer you "overspray floor sweepings" don't use them. I would take them from them as a good will gesture but would dispose of them or use them on tool handles of some kind...you don't want the fine dust-grit that may be swept up at the same time to be riding down your bore embedded in the powder coat...
Just use "still in a container-clean-powder"
 
fingers284 said:
Phantom glass black is probably the best powder I have use if I want a good thick coating to increase bullet dia. It will easily add .002 on the first coat and I have multi-coated lots of .452 pistol bullets up to .458 rifle bullet size with it.
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I'll probably stick with the mirror black then, I'm shooting as cast so I really want as thin as possible. I get under 2 thou with, more like 1.5. Same thing I found with the bright chrome, it goes on a bit thicker. Probably not enough to make much difference though.
 
fingers284 said:
One thing I forgot to warn against in my first post...If they offer you "overspray floor sweepings" don't use them. I would take them from them as a good will gesture but would dispose of them or use them on tool handles of some kind...you don't want the fine dust-grit that may be swept up at the same time to be riding down your bore embedded in the powder coat...
Just use "still in a container-clean-powder"
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The same can be said about 'metallic' type coats...stick with the basic plain colors
 
sawzall said:
Anyone know of a source in Canada for Eastwood powders? They seem to give the best shake and bake results I’ve seen!
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KMS tools carry Eastwood, at least they do in Red Deer. They also sell an inexpensive Eastwood Electro-static application sprayer that has served me well for not much more than the price of a new die set. If you like a thicker coating then Shake& bake is your best bet but if your boolits are "cast to wanted dia" and a thin even coating is wanted then the gun will be a worthwhile expense.
 
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I have not tried Ford dark blue as suggested by Yomomma, but he would agree with me when I suggest using Emerald Coatings "ToolBlue."
Foolproof really. 9mm's, 38Spl 148-158 grain cast bullets, 10-12 minutes @ 375-400 F. Creating or relying on static electricity to make the powder adhere is not necessary. AirSoft beads or other thinners, or other additives are superfluous too. Tumblers are also not needed.
 
I've found FAR less clumping with the BBs. It doesn't help it adhere any better, but they make for a much more even coat. I started off with just powder and bullets but had to blow or shake off excess. No such tomfoolery with BBs.
 
fingers284 said:
KMS tools carry Eastwood, at least they do in Red Deer. They also sell an inexpensive Eastwood Electro-static application sprayer that has served me well for not much more than the price of a new die set. If you like a thicker coating then Shake& bake is your best bet but if your boolits are "cast to wanted dia" and a thin even coating is wanted then the gun will be a worthwhile expense.
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What thickness are you getting by spraying?
How do you coat the bases?
 
hatman1793 said:
I have not tried Ford dark blue as suggested by Yomomma, but he would agree with me when I suggest using Emerald Coatings "ToolBlue."
Foolproof really. 9mm's, 38Spl 148-158 grain cast bullets, 10-12 minutes @ 375-400 F. Creating or relying on static electricity to make the powder adhere is not necessary. AirSoft beads or other thinners, or other additives are superfluous too. Tumblers are also not needed.
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While I agree about Tool Blue, i have actually never used it. In fact I have about 4 powderrs I have not used yet.
2 thanks to Freire.

The pic below shows Dormant blue. Non- TGIC. From Emerald Coating.

vDiMbvV.jpg
 
flashman2 said:
What thickness are you getting by spraying?
How do you coat the bases?
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about .001 -.0015. Even at a thou thickness they survive the hammer test quite well. I have gotten thin coatings with shake&bake as well but not often, more in the line of .002-.003, As for the base with sprayed bullets, only the bevel gets a covering, actual base stays "as cast". other than maybe filling a "sprue tear" gouge in a bullets base, there is no benefit to actual bullet performance with covered bases.
 
fingers284 said:
about .001 -.0015. Even at a thou thickness they survive the hammer test quite well. I have gotten thin coatings with shake&bake as well but not often, more in the line of .002-.003, As for the base with sprayed bullets, only the bevel gets a covering, actual base stays "as cast". other than maybe filling a "sprue tear" gouge in a bullets base, there is no benefit to actual bullet performance with covered bases.
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Yes, that's about what I get shaking, 1.5 to 2 thou. Works great for Lee 309-120s as cast in an M1 carbine. It's a GC bullet but coating lets me skip that hassle which is another great benefit. I think I have around 6-700 rounds through it since the bore was last cleaned with zero leading in it or the gas system. Ammo ends up costing not much more than .22 LR these days. I'll have to look into a sprayer to play around with, seems like it'd be faster than picking them individually out of a tub. What's the technique you use?
 
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When I'm s-n-b I pick individually out of the tub same as you but currently when spraying I set up on a piece of no-stick tin foil (it requires a metal material that will conduct the charge thru it) and spray on that ,then directly into the oven. I have bought some oven trays that have .25 cal holes drilled in them and will be switching to nose-down thru the hole spraying.

Interesting comment on the .30 carbine as that is going to be a summer project of mine as well, your not the first guy to comment on how well they work in it but one dude a year ago or so said he had no leading in the barrel but no end to the coating jamming up the gas poppet on his gun.... so was going to give-er a try myownself. I think he just had a bad cook on his coating or I suppose it could be a sharp edge on the gas port that is peeling coating off on its way by.
 
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Pricess Auto. Basic black. Works well with shake and bake. I use a $3 Thrift Store toaster oven and a PID set at 165C for 10 min. Apparently 4" ABS pipe makes Good static cling. Add white air soft pellets for a bit more cling

Make sure you keep the broil function turned off
 
Oh excellent, that sounds dead easy. I saw a guy on YT using wire to hold them on a regular rack but that seems like a lot of work. I suppose you'll lose more spraying on tinfoil but PC is cheap enough.

Yes, it's an Auto Ord, and the 309-120-2R works great. With PC you can also seat them out a groove and have them at max mag length. I use them as cast and although large at .313 after PC, they shoot well, good enough to hit a 6" popper all the time at 100 yds. I'm going to try sizing some to. 308 to end up .310 to .312 and see if that improves accuracy. I'm using max loads of H110. Accuracy with cast isn't as good as with 110 RN jacketed yet. I also have a the 311-93-1r mold on the way to try after sizing down. But for $0.11 plinking ammo it's definitely worth it compared to $0.75 factory or $0.41 jacketed reloads. Monitored the gas system for any leading or flakes and there just isn't any. I stopped even worrying about it and am just going to see how long it goes before it needs a cleaning. I think i might even have 1000 rounds through it without cleaning... can't remember if I did the bore after the last time I shot jacketed through it.
 
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10x said:
Pricess Auto. Basic black. Works well with shake and bake. I use a $3 Thrift Store toaster oven and a PID set at 165C for 10 min. Apparently 4" ABS pipe makes Good static cling. Add white air soft pellets for a bit more cling

Make sure you keep the broil function turned off
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Get some more info onbthe powder. Usually they will give you a PMT temp and time. PMT " part metal temperature. So really you should start timing when your bullets reach that temp
 
yomomma said:
Get some more info onbthe powder. Usually they will give you a PMT temp and time. PMT " part metal temperature. So really you should start timing when your bullets reach that temp
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Oops. Thanks for that. I've been doing 12 min after the oven is at temp. Interestingly, with perfect adhesion as per the hammer test. But good to know you can't go wrong baking longer.
 
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