Powder Coating

yomomma said:
Just got done dealing with John. Although a lot of RAL colours say they are TGIC free, they are not!!

My order was a wash since non of the stuff I bought is now NOT TGIC FREE. I am greatly saddened.

John said he would straighten out the websight
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This is second time its happened, they need to sort out their site or refund people as its their mistake.

They assured me tool blue was tgic free, i hope that wasn't a mistake.

Do you have a list of powders that are 100% tgic free ?

tjsudbury w w w.pfonline.com/articles/are-tgic-free-powder-coatings-right-for-you
 
I asked for one without success. They are opening themselves up for a good law suit if someone ends up having a major reaction to that stuff.

IF he ends up sorting the web site we should be good, in the meantime consider any RAL powder TGIC
 
yomomma said:
I asked for one without success. They are opening themselves up for a good law suit if someone ends up having a major reaction to that stuff.

IF he ends up sorting the web site we should be good, in the meantime consider any RAL powder TGIC
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Going to contact tgic free manufactures direct for now to get a list colours and price. The only problem is that you will have to buy at min weights.

I doubt he will update the website, the last time i called they assured me that everything labelled tgic free on emerald site was tgic free.
 
Back when moly coating was all the rage with the bench rest shooters, it was found that you needed a touch more powder to get the same velocities, due to slightly less friction from the coating. Is there any empirical evidence to see if this is happening with PC?
 
anyone have any luck tumbling doing a satin black? I am using some white high density airsoft bbs(what I had on hand) its real splotchy, the powder seems to be clumping thickly in the groves but the rest of the bullet has poor spotty coverage.
 
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I have used some Satin Black with good results so far. The Glass black I had first was a very much thicker coating than the Satin. Grass black added .005 or more to a bullet and the Satin was more in line with the other colors (red & Blue) I've tried with .001-2 thickness.

I also use the white ASBB but they are labeled as "bio-degradable" so don't know the composition of them. They are the only BB's I could find at the time and don't think they are what everybody else is using but they do seem to make a difference in the coating consistency/quality. Just swirling doesn't seem to give me a quality covering but a few up and down bounces at the end really make a difference.
 
slug said:
Back when moly coating was all the rage with the bench rest shooters, it was found that you needed a touch more powder to get the same velocities, due to slightly less friction from the coating. Is there any empirical evidence to see if this is happening with PC?
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I've actually heard the opposite with PC bullets. You actually use less powder with PC. This is according to a sponsor repping Ares bullets though so could be a slight gimmick.
 
I found that all things being equal, the PC bullets gave me about 10-12fps more than their traditional lube'd counterparts. Not really a concern for my shooting.

Auggie D.
 
Finished up about 1100 or so 130gr RNFP .38's Used Tool Blue for ones to be used for my .357's and Traffic Red for those slated for .38 Specials.

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Auggie D.
 
Just finished PC'ing about 1300 170gr .40 cal SWCs. I used Phantom Wet White High Gloss. They turned out pretty well. Now I have to load up some rounds to test them out in my stock Glock 23.

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Auggie D.
 
I usually use red or blue coating and get good coverage. I tried a little sample of yellow and I'm not sure whether I need a second coat.
Maybe the yellow is just a little more transparent?
What do you think, shoot them or coat again?


 
I was wondering if it would be thick enough to provide adequate protection. I tried the hammer test and no flaking. In think I'll stay with the darker colors in the future though.
 
Tazzy said:
I was wondering if it would be thick enough to provide adequate protection. I tried the hammer test and no flaking. In think I'll stay with the darker colors in the future though.
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You dont need a thick coat, my pc adds .002 - .003 to the bullets. example my 9mm cast at around .356 and are no bigger than .359 after pc is applied.

I use about a tea spoon for ever 50 bullets i pc. You want hardly anything left in the container (if you use this method) after swirling for 60 seconds.
 
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I've never had much luck with a second coat of powder. It doesn't seem to stick as well as it does to the bare alloy.

My white bullets were a bit disappointing. The coating was about 1 or 1.5 thousandths thick. After 100 rounds through my stock Glock 23 there was a small amount of leading, about the same as I get when lubing the traditional way with Lars Carnauba Red.

Auggie D.
 
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