Preventing rust on K98k

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saucerful69

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Hey everyone, just looking for some tips on how to prevent more pitting from happening on my Mauser, as it is basically my pride and joy. It has minor pitting in the barrel, which is normal, but I'm scared that it will get even worse on the receiver. It is the oldest model "S/42K" so it makes sense that it would be showing signs of that. But just looking for some tips/recommendations on the best and easy way to make sure that it doesn't get any worse, thanks guys!
 
saucerful69 said:
Hey everyone, just looking for some tips on how to prevent more pitting from happening on my Mauser, as it is basically my pride and joy. It has minor pitting in the barrel, which is normal, but I'm scared that it will get even worse on the receiver. It is the oldest model "S/42K" so it makes sense that it would be showing signs of that. But just looking for some tips/recommendations on the best and easy way to make sure that it doesn't get any worse, thanks guys!
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It shouldn't rust if it's maintained and oiled, unless there's some corrosive action going on due to past neglect. Some call that rust 'patina'.
 
I use a rag that has a little bit of gun oil rubbed into it and then I rub down all the metal surfaces. This will leave a thin coating of gun oil and should help prevent rust.

Of course, the metal must be clean for this to work.
 
I put my guns into the locker with a protective coat of Automatic Transmission Fluid (ie red oil). The solvents like Hoppe's No. 9 (mmmmm!) are great for cleaning but evaporate into nothing, and the metal is unprotected.
 
I like RIG for long term protection. I did my guns inside and out with RIG before they went into 3 year long term storage when I went overseas on a long tour and they were all good.

I lived in SW MB for 9 years and never had a problem with corrosion by keeping the metal surface lightly oiled while guns were in the safe. It's a good idea to wipe off fingerprints after use.
 
Ballistol or if I don't have access to it any regular gun oil. I've been carrying one for years during WW2 reenactment events. Rifle gets covered in water and mud all the time. I cleaned it first chance I get. So far no rush all pitting on the barrel didn't get any worse.
 
I wipe all my guns down with Rust Check, and down the barrel.

If it stops rust on cars it should do good on guns.

In any event, I've been using it for years and no signs of any rust yet.
 
If you are going to store your firearm for a long period, 1 yr plus. I would recommend breaking it down from the stock. Oiling it with a gun oil that doesn't damage wood. I would recommend Ballistol or G96 as the products I have used that I like. Spray all the parts lightly wipe or leave oily and put it back together. Then place it in the bin with the other artifacts. These old guns are remarkably resilient. If your gun already has some rust on it and your not sure what to do consider the value of the firearm. I had one which I picked up that had developed some rust, all the markings had been peened 100% blueing was missing in spots on the barrel. I completely reblued and tidied up the stock a great deal, It turned into a fine tight grouping rifle (probably always was).

Honestly oiling is the least of your concerns. For me the biggest hurdle of the K98 was breakdown removing that front barrel band. Once you get past that everything is easy.

To save you the worry and damage to your gun. Here is the video to get you started as well as confused because its not exactly for your model. Tip Use the empty shell and a rubber mallot and tap the band off by angling the empty shell at about 30--40 degrees depressing the band spring and tapping the end cap off easily. It seems YouTube is devoid of anything but butchers who use vice grips etc... don't do that.
 
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philhut said:
If you are going to store your firearm for a long period, 1 yr plus. I would recommend breaking it down from the stock. Oiling it with a gun oil that doesn't damage wood. I would recommend Ballistol or G96 as the products I have used that I like. Spray all the parts lightly wipe or leave oily and put it back together. Then place it in the bin with the other artifacts. These old guns are remarkably resilient. If your gun already has some rust on it and your not sure what to do consider the value of the firearm. I had one which I picked up that had developed some rust, all the markings had been peened 100% blueing was missing in spots on the barrel. I completely reblued and tidied up the stock a great deal, It turned into a fine tight grouping rifle (probably always was).

Honestly oiling is the least of your concerns. For me the biggest hurdle of the K98 was breakdown removing that front barrel band. Once you get past that everything is easy.

To save you the worry and damage to your gun. Here is the video to get you started as well as confused because its not exactly for your model. Tip Use the empty shell and a rubber mallot and tap the band off by angling the empty shell at about 30--40 degrees depressing the band spring and tapping the end cap off easily. It seems YouTube is devoid of anything but butchers who use vice grips etc... don't do that.
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Here's my easy & painless way to remove the front barrel band. I use a 5 inch C-clamp. Put a felt chair leg pad on the side that contacts the wood. Position it over the barrel band spring. Carefully tighten down until I can gently tap the barrel band out of position with a punch. This won't damage the wood if you go slowly and carefully.

That big C-clamp is worth every penny of the $10 I think I paid.
 
Chargerguy said:
Someone did an extensive test with a whack of different corrosion inhibitors and posted it online. I believe Hornady one shot was one of the absolute best. G96 might have been right up there too.

EDIT:

Here's a link:

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Maybe G96 wasn't as good as I recalled.
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Damn thats one awesome test, guess ill be switching to Hornady one shot
 
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You don't need to make a banquet out of a ham sandwich. As mentioned, I stored my guns in SW Manitoba for a number of years, also SK and AB where humidity isn't a factor. I also had them in higher humidity where I lived incl the Maritimes, Quebec, Ontario, and Florida. A light wiping with a cloth and gun oil on the exterior/interior metal is good. Be sure to wipe off the fingerprints with the cloth. Don't leave the metal surfaces wet with oil. Slathering on too much oil isn't good for the stock or the stock bedding areas.

Forget the engine oil, ATF, or high cost preservatives. Even 3 in 1 oil is good.
 
dagc said:
Here's my easy & painless way to remove the front barrel band. I use a 5 inch C-clamp. Put a felt chair leg pad on the side that contacts the wood. Position it over the barrel band spring. Carefully tighten down until I can gently tap the barrel band out of position with a punch. This won't damage the wood if you go slowly and carefully.

That big C-clamp is worth every penny of the $10 I think I paid.
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That's a good method. The only thing I would add is to buy a small block of hard wood such as oak to use as the "punch" when tapping on the bands. Not much of a deal on a m/m shooter rifle but I wouldn't want to risk damage from metal on metal contact on a matching original rifle.
 
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