Project guns - Savage Pump and Rem single shot!! update 4/4/10!

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s9601694

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I have an old Savage Pump 12ga 3". I am planning on sawing off the stock to make an old school pistol grip and then sawing off the barrel to keep the overall length >26" and the barrel >18". The gun is in pretty rough shape with a little rust here and there. I havent shot it but the action seems to work fine. I want to make this gun into a real beauty so i'll need to reblue it, etc.

"Before" Pics:

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also have an old made-in-brazil Remington 16ga single shot. Would it be easier to work on this one first? To gain some experience i mean? Pics:

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Could you guys start feeding me with tips/tricks/experiences/pictures please?

I know there is a pretty extensive thread out there from a guy who did an awesome job on a single shot, but i havent seen any on a pump action..

Thanks!
 
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I have an old Stevens that I did that to. The only complication I ran into was how to remount the stock after cutting it down to a pistol grip. I had to rethread so I could get a common bolt to fit.

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I stuffed a rag in the barrel at the chamber, to keep out any filings, then I cut it to 18.5 inches with a hacksaw. I then filed the end square/true. Cleaned it all up and good to go.
 
The bluing on the gun is pretty much gone and it has some rust on it. I want to take it apart and after i cut the barrel, sand the rust off and then refinish the metal. Is blueing the only way to go or are there other ways of finishing metal?

thanks for any input!
 
I just put up a thread yesterday about a used shotty I picked up last week and shortened. It was my first time cutting a barrel. I used a hose clamp at my measured point to assist in keeping the cut vertical, seemed to work pretty good. I also had read about, and used, the finest toothed hacksaw blade I could get to keep the cut clean. Flat filed it true, and used 150 grit sandpaper to smooth it all off. I cut it at 19", leaving a little room for fixing it if I messed it up but there was no need in the end.

Shouldn't be too hard if you're careful. Only took about 30 minutes, with the filing taking the longest. If I did it again I'd probably get it done in 10 or 15.

Good luck, look forward to seeing your results.
 
thanks for your input! I was going to put up some 'before' pictures tonight but I got tied up with my daughters science project... Tomorrow!

I'm exited to get started!

Gormley Green said:
I just put up a thread yesterday about a used shotty I picked up last week and shortened. It was my first time cutting a barrel. I used a hose clamp at my measured point to assist in keeping the cut vertical, seemed to work pretty good. I also had read about, and used, the finest toothed hacksaw blade I could get to keep the cut clean. Flat filed it true, and used 150 grit sandpaper to smooth it all off. I cut it at 19", leaving a little room for fixing it if I messed it up but there was no need in the end.

Shouldn't be too hard if you're careful. Only took about 30 minutes, with the filing taking the longest. If I did it again I'd probably get it done in 10 or 15.

Good luck, look forward to seeing your results.
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Do you know anyone with a sand blast cabinet? That would clean it up real nice in no time at all. I made mine out of a plastic tote and a cheap siphon blaster from Princess auto. Check under metal cleaning in the yellow pages and you might find someone who will do it cheap. A lot of work to get all the rust out of those pits with steel wool. Too bad you aren't closer, it would take longer to set up the cabinet than it would to clean both those guns. Of course you wouldn't sandblast it you are rebluing as it leaves too rough a surface to polish out but painting, parkerizing and arma-coating are all options after blasting. Also, I don't use sand but rather recycled glass media for cleaning guns.
Kim
 
elimsprint said:
Do you know anyone with a sand blast cabinet? That would clean it up real nice in no time at all. I made mine out of a plastic tote and a cheap siphon blaster from Princess auto. Check under metal cleaning in the yellow pages and you might find someone who will do it cheap. A lot of work to get all the rust out of those pits with steel wool. Too bad you aren't closer, it would take longer to set up the cabinet than it would to clean both those guns. Of course you wouldn't sandblast it you are rebluing as it leaves too rough a surface to polish out but painting, parkerizing and arma-coating are all options after blasting. Also, I don't use sand but rather recycled glass media for cleaning guns.
Kim
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Thanks for you input! You talk about different kinds of finishing. I am definatly not 'married' to bluing. Could you tell me a little about the other finishes? What kind of paint would i use? and.. what are parkerizing and arma coating?

thanks!
 
Not to hijack the thread, but I have the youth sporter stock for my 20 GA 870, since I put a full sized stock on it last year I don't really have a whole lot of use for the tiny sporter lol.
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Something like that should work, right? Or would I run in to problems with the screw?
I was planning on cutting it like that, picking up a shorter screw and counter-sinking it in to the stock.
 
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Pooker said:
Not to hijack the thread, but I have the youth sporter stock for my 20 GA 870, since I put a full sized stock on it last year I don't really have a whole lot of use for the tiny sporter lol.
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Something like that should work, right? Or would I run in to problems with the screw?
I was planning on cutting it like that, picking up a shorter screw and counter-sinking it in to the stock.
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I was planning on doing somethign similar
 
i cleaned up an old moss-berg 200 pump gun . it had surface rust which cleaned up not too bad with oil soaked scouring pads . i took the gun completely apart and cleaned the gun with var-sol. i went looking for paint and came across some at c.t. called krylon camouflage ultra flat green in a spray bomb.the paint filled in any surface imperfections and after three coats i had a shotgun that looked very nice .it was cheap at six dollars or so and seems durable . i left the wood alone other than a cleaning .
 
I have just finished the metal on an old Cooey of mine and, like farmer47 said, Cambodian Tire is a great source for all kinds of paint. I used semi-gloss black. After sanding with a med sanding sponge I applied three light coats of this Tremclad semi-gloss black. When dry I then baked it at 200F for a bit and presto, fairly hard finish thats easy to touch up. All of the screws I cleaned up with some 320 grit sandpaper then used some cold blueing. My wood will be sanded to 320 grit then finished with a satin finishing wax. If you wanted you could try a camo paint scheme using the Krylon stuff mentioned. Check out some of the threads on refinishing for more ideas.
 
I would first put a piece of tape on your barrel representing your finished barrel length. Then put a piece of tape on the stock where you intend to cut it. If the measurement between the two pieces of tape is over the legal SHORTEST length then your good to go. If its too short then move the tape on the barrel to where it needs to be and re-measure. When your all set, based on what you have to work with, figure out whats going to be easiest to cut first. I cut the barrel on my sons Cooey first as it jumps around more than when cutting the stock down.(The added length may give you some added options for holding the piece.)
From there attack the job you want to do first!! I enjoy the metal-work so did that first. The stock followed.(Duhhh...)
 
Stock first, then barrel and don't forget to give yourself an extra 1/2-1" just to be on the safe side. Krylon Camo paints are great and if you scratch it you just add more colour, easy fix. Parkerizing is a phosphate treatment that is what is on most military weapons. You can get do it yourself kits. Armacoat is a coloured two part paint for your gun. It has to be sprayed with either an airbrush or small spray gun. It is sold by a member on here.
Kim
ht tp://www.arma-coat.com/
ht tp://www.calvan.com/ parkerizing solution, lots of different ones out there
painted with krylon
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