The answers for parallax vs focus are good and IF you scope had those adjustments, learn to use them.
The OP scope doesn't so consider:
Very inexpensive package scope... not exactly known for quality optics and/or durability. But you have what you have for now so let's look at a solution.
For lower variables with NO parallax adjustment but with ocular adjustment, the compromise is this. Look at a target in the middle of the distances you are likely to engage at the highest mag of your scope... let's say it is 9X and that you are hunting out to say 250yds so the target is at 125yds.
Change the ocular focus until the image is in focus, THEN play with the focus to get the reticle as clear as possible. All of these scopes have a range of focus where you will move between image and/or reticle in focus. Try and find the best compromise where the image is clear enough to identify and engage and the reticle is clear/just blurry that you can use it.
Going further, the image should still stay clear enough to engage even if the reticle is a bit fuzzy. Prove to yourself the target can be hit by shooting.
I feel it is better to see the target and overlay a slightly blurry reticle then the other way around.
Now dial back on the mag and the image/reticle will both go into focus - at least more then good enough to get the job done. On the generic entry level 3-9, 5X or 6X is where the manf is likely to compromise on getting things to work. Dial down to 3X, you may get lucky and both stay in focus but likely one or the other is off. There is a very good chance, the edges of the field of view show distortion.
At 9X, the image should still stay clear ( as clear as this optic can provide) but sacrifice reticle sharpness.
It is a band aid solution but at least you are functional. You can fine tune this more by adjusting the ocular focus to favor the mag that you intend to use most of all. When I was starting out, I found 6X to be the most useful so made this the best view... either end was not ideal but functional.
If you have time, and if the scope has a fast focus ring at the back of the ocular piece, you can play with this like a parallax adjustment and find the best compromise of image and reticle when on target... the risk is that with cheap scopes, you can also get POI changes due to the image distortion. I never bothered for fear of causing other issues when all I needed to do was be able to aim behind the shoulder about 1/3 up from the brisket... close enough, good enough.
Getting better optics is certainly a good investment
Jerry
