Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
There has been alot of interest and questions about the Stevens in 223 for a LR varmint and target rifle. Thought I would give you an update on my recently purchased rifle.
From Russells, this one was a 2006 model. Grey 'square' foreend stock. First jobs were to shave off the flashing on the stock. This is done with the edge of a very sharp razor blade. Doesn't take long before you have a smooth stock. A Hogue soft recoil pad was also exchanged for the hockey puck that come with the stock.
Next job was to smooth the camming surface on the bolt and the trigger. These actions do need quite a bit of break in so a bit of sanding/polishing will smooth its operation.
You can even put some fine lapping compound on the camming surface, back of the lugs and work the bolt open and close a bunch of time. Things will smooth up and operation will become much easier in no time.
The trigger can be reduced quite easily to around 3lbs. I know of some who have them to 2.5lbs but that is about the limit of the factory trigger. Pull is very crisp and overtravel can be reduced to nil. For such a simple design, it works surprisingly well. An aftermarket trigger will give you a lighter trigger if desired.
The most important thing to ensure consistent accuracy is bedding the action. The main areas are around each action screw, the rear tang and the recoil lug. The lug must be supported on the sides to keep it from rolling. I also support the bottom and as much of the front as I can (not easy given the large cavity in the stocks inletting, might need to do in two steps).
I like to bed mine so that the action is level and unstressed. For the most part, the front pillar is accurate but the rear may be a bit low. When done, the front just peaks through the bedding and the rear is usually covered. I put just a bit under the rear tang to keep the full length supported.
I don't bother with the sides next to the mag opening. Never seemed to cause a problem. However, the sides around the action screw holes are bedded.
When properly done, the action should not move at all in the stock. There will be no forward movement or roll. I don't like to use the action screws to hold the action in place. Rarely ever is solid and you will get flyers as the action screws wiggle loose.
The correct Weaver bases are screwed down using blue loctite and the scope mounted.
I like degreasing the barrel with some brake cleaner but follow up with a bit of WD40. The bore is wiped 'dry'. Some synthetic grease on the bolt moving parts and trigger and things are smooth.
Since I am planning on using this for LR shooting and varminting, I went directly with the 75gr Amax bullet. This is one of the most accurate bullets for the 9 twist. I also find the poly tipped bullets to have a higher real world BC then the BTHP match bullets of equal weight.
Looking up some load data, Varget was a top choice. I prefer to use match primers and the CCI BR4 is a good one. I am using once fired Win brass I bought from another CGN member. Nice stuff. Went through the normal brass prep except neck turning (will get to this in a bit). The brass wasn't sorted though so likely from a few lots.
I seated the bullet so that the start of the bullets boattail is even with the neck/shoulder junction. This is way longer then the mag will allow but still shorter then the throat in this chamber ( a bit longer then expected). I know from past experience that these long match bullets like to be as close to the lands as possible. I could seat the bullet out more but I don't like to reduce the neck holding the bullet. This is the last area I adjust once the powder/primer tweaking is done. Usually, I can get a useable load and still retain seating length.
Fireforming and initial load work up showed the brass to be of good quality and the barrel liking the Amax.
In the initial load work up BR4 was used. I found a few loads where two would snug up and another a bit off. Given that the brass was not fireformed and it was around minus10C, I was very encouraged. It was quite calm.
More testing has shown that around the 'sweet' spot, the rifle will drop 2 to 3 rds into a very tight group (1/4" to 3/8") then other shots would stretch out as far as 1". That is getting frustrating.
I immediately went over the rifle and looked for loose parts. Everything was in order.
Then I remembered that the BR primers can get irratic when temps are cold. Time to switch to a magnum primer (CCI 450).
This lead to the shooting this afternoon (around 0C). Again, there were groups were two were touching with a flyer pushing the group out. The groups are still around 3/4" but that flyer is aggravating. Look at the groups marked 24.5 and 25.0.
You can clearly see that the 24.0 group was stable but not spectacular. The 24.5 and 25.0 loads would be superb if not for that errant third shot. 25.5 indicated high enough pressures for group to open. 26.0 was definitely way over pressure for that barrel.
Please note that the groups were horizontal then went vertical as the pressures ramped up. This has repeated each time I have worked up loads with this barrel. Very interesting to see how the barrel harmonics changed with pressure. This might be another way to diagnose a load. The sweet spot will be between these two extremes.
The occurance of flyers is definitely a problem with the load. It is way too cold for barrel overheating. Neither the BR or mag primer is solving this problem. If you look at the BR4 load, the first three shots are about 3/8" with two touching, then shot 4 is 1" out with 5 and 6 filling the space in between. Way too irratic for precision LR shooting.
Always keep track of each shot and where it lands on the group. The location and timing/shot number can help you understand the barrel and load better. Shooting in calm air is necessary to make this work.
Anticipating that I would also have issues even with the 450 primer, I loaded up some loads using H4350. Still using the 450 primer, the few shots taken look much more consistent.
If you see the target marked H4350, you can see that from 25 to 25.5, the group size cut in half. Then to 26,0, the group snugs up real tight (5/16" measured Center to center).
Next time out, I will do more testing with H4350, CCI 450 primer at 26.0 to 26.5gr and see if this accuracy holds up over longer strings of fire. Ideally, I want 5rds going into 3/8" or smaller at 100yds.
I have also marked the brass that were flyers. If they shoot out of the group again, they will be culled.
The rifle and load show the potential to shoot around 1/2 MOA at extended ranges. Will post more testing results.
As for barrel break in, I just shot my first 21rds then cleaned the pipe. The barrel showed the normal powder fouling. Conc ammonia was next. I only got one patch of blue and it wasn't very bright. The next two patches came out clean. That is outstanding for a new factory pipe and reinforces my feelings about barrel break in.
After todays shooting, the barrel has digested 77rds without cleaning. Used two primers and two powders and still dropped the last three rds into a 5/16" group.
So for all those curious about this rifle, I can say mine is a shooter. Just need to debug the load and it will be a keeper.
Testing will confirm that H4350 is the better powder choice and I will switch to the Lee collet neck die to reduce my sizing runout even more. Might also do a light neck turning to remove the high spots. I will also keep an eye on the brass to cull those that are definitely 'different'. I might also play with seating depths.
When the snow melts, the loads wil be tested out to 300m. If all goes well, plinking out to 1000yds will begin.
Jerry
From Russells, this one was a 2006 model. Grey 'square' foreend stock. First jobs were to shave off the flashing on the stock. This is done with the edge of a very sharp razor blade. Doesn't take long before you have a smooth stock. A Hogue soft recoil pad was also exchanged for the hockey puck that come with the stock.
Next job was to smooth the camming surface on the bolt and the trigger. These actions do need quite a bit of break in so a bit of sanding/polishing will smooth its operation.
You can even put some fine lapping compound on the camming surface, back of the lugs and work the bolt open and close a bunch of time. Things will smooth up and operation will become much easier in no time.
The trigger can be reduced quite easily to around 3lbs. I know of some who have them to 2.5lbs but that is about the limit of the factory trigger. Pull is very crisp and overtravel can be reduced to nil. For such a simple design, it works surprisingly well. An aftermarket trigger will give you a lighter trigger if desired.
The most important thing to ensure consistent accuracy is bedding the action. The main areas are around each action screw, the rear tang and the recoil lug. The lug must be supported on the sides to keep it from rolling. I also support the bottom and as much of the front as I can (not easy given the large cavity in the stocks inletting, might need to do in two steps).
I like to bed mine so that the action is level and unstressed. For the most part, the front pillar is accurate but the rear may be a bit low. When done, the front just peaks through the bedding and the rear is usually covered. I put just a bit under the rear tang to keep the full length supported.
I don't bother with the sides next to the mag opening. Never seemed to cause a problem. However, the sides around the action screw holes are bedded.
When properly done, the action should not move at all in the stock. There will be no forward movement or roll. I don't like to use the action screws to hold the action in place. Rarely ever is solid and you will get flyers as the action screws wiggle loose.
The correct Weaver bases are screwed down using blue loctite and the scope mounted.
I like degreasing the barrel with some brake cleaner but follow up with a bit of WD40. The bore is wiped 'dry'. Some synthetic grease on the bolt moving parts and trigger and things are smooth.
Since I am planning on using this for LR shooting and varminting, I went directly with the 75gr Amax bullet. This is one of the most accurate bullets for the 9 twist. I also find the poly tipped bullets to have a higher real world BC then the BTHP match bullets of equal weight.
Looking up some load data, Varget was a top choice. I prefer to use match primers and the CCI BR4 is a good one. I am using once fired Win brass I bought from another CGN member. Nice stuff. Went through the normal brass prep except neck turning (will get to this in a bit). The brass wasn't sorted though so likely from a few lots.
I seated the bullet so that the start of the bullets boattail is even with the neck/shoulder junction. This is way longer then the mag will allow but still shorter then the throat in this chamber ( a bit longer then expected). I know from past experience that these long match bullets like to be as close to the lands as possible. I could seat the bullet out more but I don't like to reduce the neck holding the bullet. This is the last area I adjust once the powder/primer tweaking is done. Usually, I can get a useable load and still retain seating length.
Fireforming and initial load work up showed the brass to be of good quality and the barrel liking the Amax.
In the initial load work up BR4 was used. I found a few loads where two would snug up and another a bit off. Given that the brass was not fireformed and it was around minus10C, I was very encouraged. It was quite calm.
More testing has shown that around the 'sweet' spot, the rifle will drop 2 to 3 rds into a very tight group (1/4" to 3/8") then other shots would stretch out as far as 1". That is getting frustrating.
I immediately went over the rifle and looked for loose parts. Everything was in order.
Then I remembered that the BR primers can get irratic when temps are cold. Time to switch to a magnum primer (CCI 450).
This lead to the shooting this afternoon (around 0C). Again, there were groups were two were touching with a flyer pushing the group out. The groups are still around 3/4" but that flyer is aggravating. Look at the groups marked 24.5 and 25.0.
You can clearly see that the 24.0 group was stable but not spectacular. The 24.5 and 25.0 loads would be superb if not for that errant third shot. 25.5 indicated high enough pressures for group to open. 26.0 was definitely way over pressure for that barrel.
Please note that the groups were horizontal then went vertical as the pressures ramped up. This has repeated each time I have worked up loads with this barrel. Very interesting to see how the barrel harmonics changed with pressure. This might be another way to diagnose a load. The sweet spot will be between these two extremes.
The occurance of flyers is definitely a problem with the load. It is way too cold for barrel overheating. Neither the BR or mag primer is solving this problem. If you look at the BR4 load, the first three shots are about 3/8" with two touching, then shot 4 is 1" out with 5 and 6 filling the space in between. Way too irratic for precision LR shooting.
Always keep track of each shot and where it lands on the group. The location and timing/shot number can help you understand the barrel and load better. Shooting in calm air is necessary to make this work.
Anticipating that I would also have issues even with the 450 primer, I loaded up some loads using H4350. Still using the 450 primer, the few shots taken look much more consistent.
If you see the target marked H4350, you can see that from 25 to 25.5, the group size cut in half. Then to 26,0, the group snugs up real tight (5/16" measured Center to center).
Next time out, I will do more testing with H4350, CCI 450 primer at 26.0 to 26.5gr and see if this accuracy holds up over longer strings of fire. Ideally, I want 5rds going into 3/8" or smaller at 100yds.
I have also marked the brass that were flyers. If they shoot out of the group again, they will be culled.
The rifle and load show the potential to shoot around 1/2 MOA at extended ranges. Will post more testing results.
As for barrel break in, I just shot my first 21rds then cleaned the pipe. The barrel showed the normal powder fouling. Conc ammonia was next. I only got one patch of blue and it wasn't very bright. The next two patches came out clean. That is outstanding for a new factory pipe and reinforces my feelings about barrel break in.
After todays shooting, the barrel has digested 77rds without cleaning. Used two primers and two powders and still dropped the last three rds into a 5/16" group.
So for all those curious about this rifle, I can say mine is a shooter. Just need to debug the load and it will be a keeper.
Testing will confirm that H4350 is the better powder choice and I will switch to the Lee collet neck die to reduce my sizing runout even more. Might also do a light neck turning to remove the high spots. I will also keep an eye on the brass to cull those that are definitely 'different'. I might also play with seating depths.
When the snow melts, the loads wil be tested out to 300m. If all goes well, plinking out to 1000yds will begin.
Jerry
Last edited:
good luck 
