Re-Barreled & Restored to Glory! Weatherby MK XXII *Update*

Stop cleaning it so much .It probably will work better dirty.Just work your way up with the old sk std and then switch after a couple boxes to the new stuff.I have yet to run a patch through my anshutz and it likes it.

Mine does not like to be fouled. I shot 3 boxes of SK+ and some SK Magazine then shot this with Rifle Match. It displays the wild tendencies my CZ does.



I then scrubbed with the bronze brush at the range and shot this:



Like my CZ I think this rifle has a quick fouling problem, not as extreme as the CZ but still evident, and the brush isn't enough to clean it out properly. JB bore paste on order and looking at getting a bore scope so all my target shooting will be sidelined until I have a good look at my rifles.
 
So I haven't forgotten about this lil' bang stick while tinkering with several other projects. It's always come out to the range with me for testing just wasn't doing anything post worthy.... that is until now! Last couple range trips I reviewed my targets and went "hmmm" in a good way :) Seems that the accuracy and consistency are starting to come around. I had been shying away from bedding this rifle as I didn't trust my skills. I'm sure I'd do a perfectly functional job but am scared to scuff up this beautiful stock like I had on the other rifles I bedded. I took out the action screws and felt out the stock to action fit. A great deal of forward to back, side to side play was observed, just begging for bedding! I decided to aluminum tape bed it as it is a quick easy harmless way to see if bedding would net some improvement and brought some shims to the range in case I felt like trying it with a pressure pad. Shot a box of SK standard then SK rifle match on this target to start, from a clean barrel. I like what I see.



Usually this is where it falls apart having shot two boxes of ammo I'd previously had to clean with a brush to restore accuracy. I tried some CCI Std, Aguila Std and RWS Club with lesser results than the SK, but not terrible. Certainly not as wild as this rifle has been before. See post above how it went wild above the 200 rounds fired count and needed cleaning. At 225 rounds with no cleaning I went back to SK rifle match and shot this, you can see it settling back into the ammo over the course of the box. Big difference than my last post yes? Yes :) I am skeptical the "bedding" alone can account for it maintaining performance over 200 rounds but I can plainly see the "bedding" is doing good things. JB bore paste and just shooting and shooting seems to be smoothing things out in a good way.



I shot another box of SK Rifle match immediately after and between groups 3-8 there is a successful 1/2" challenge result! Cannot post it as such though but it is good to know the rifle is showing what it's really made of now. Inexplicable flier on group 9 then back to sub 1/2". I am quite pleased with today's session.



So a full bedding job will be next for this rifle as I see it responded very well to the aluminum tape bedding experiment and I think I've improved my bedding skills enough to do a good job with this stock. It will be the toughest one to set up, front and rear action screws are different sizes and the trigger has to be in place for the stud to contact the rear factory pillar. I need to make headless screws to use in place of the action screws during bedding. Will be a fun one!
 
Oh boy, I have neglected this thread (but you can find me on Rimfire Central where I've kept current with this baby). I'll start with what everyone wants to see and hear, she shoots awesome now! Details of what's gone on will follow, peruse if interested in the troubleshooting that went into it, might help ya with your own rifle. I determined the factory barrel to be a dud, never gunna shoot right (How many times have you guys heard this from me? But it's true... I'm a Dud Magnet) so I sought a replacement barrel. Contacted a gunsmith in the USA about making a custom barrel for it, he offered a new factory barrel he'd taken off a customer's build project and assured me he thoroughly inspected it and it was flawless. The price was right and accuracy expectations of a good Anschütz barrel would surely satisfy me so I went for it. It took nearly 3 months to import but she arrived safe and sound. Results of today's ammo testing, everything shot at least decent and a distinct preference shown for Lapua. I tested 8 Ammos, 5 five-shot groups each. Ran a couple dry patches when switching brand names. I don't give the first groups on the left much weight as they are blowing out the previous ammo's lube and yes, this affects even the same manufacturer but different offering (I.E RWS R-50 to R-100). Total average = 0.455" Nice! :) So I'll stick with Lapua (Time to re-order) and play around with action torque and barrel bedding.



At 100 yards X-act showed vertical issues while Midas + fared much better. While X-act might be the better 50 yard performer the "tune" seems to be off at 100y. A barrel tuner would be interesting, would likely improve the Eley performance as well, but just doesn't suit a sporter rifle and I would not be allowed to use it in Silhouette competition so I gotta find what works without one.



The final straw for the original barrel was this last test. I fully bedded the barrel channel with removable support pads. Wax was applied to the barrel channel to allow the pads to be popped out easily and they were separated in the bedding setup to come out individually. The purpose here was to attempt "tuning" in the barrel with bedding.





A chronograph was used to record data on the groups and see if any pattern was evident with respect to hot or weak rounds and point of impact. Shots 1-5 were for sight in off target, 6-10 are the first group top left.







Conclusion was muzzle velocity had no apparent correlation to POI, flyers were random. Removal of barrel pads had no apparent effect on groupings, "tuning" had failed. Out of 30 groups, only 3 made it under 1/2", barely, in the high 0.49's. This barrel is a DUD! Slugging assessment found several tight/loose spots ahead of the chamber and just before the muzzle. No visual defects apparent with the borescope regarding bore finish or chambering. It's crazy, the slightest imperfection and rimfire barrels can be duds. She now wears a 1416D HB barrel, had to open up the barrel channel slightly to fit it as muzzle diameter went from 0.65" original to 0.73". I did all the gunsmith work on it myself, removed the old barrel and glued in the new one. Man, that is satisfying! :d



 
Congratulations. It must be immensely satisfying to finally achieve the results you have been seeking. How did you go about gluing in the new barrel? And, for the curious among us, can you share what the cost is to get a "new" barrel such as the one you obtained (just in case someone knows someone who has a barrel available south of the 49th parallel)?

Thank you grauhanen, anything can be fixed with enough time and money lol (trying not to spend as much this year...). Sure, I used Prophet River as a 3rd party import service. Their fee is $50 per barrel, total paid to them including taxes/duties and shipping to me was $104 Cdn. The barrel was purchased for $225 USD shipped to the FFL Prophet River uses for exporting. Worked out to about $400 Cdn in this case, the same seller starts doing custom barrels at $550 USD each so this was clearly a much more economical option to try, plus maintained the blued look as custom could only be done in stainless.

Being able to do this work relies heavily on having some machinists tools, depth micrometer, outside micrometer and vernier calipers. The old barrel shank was measured for outside diameter and length from breech face to shoulder. Receiver I.D was measured as well. This information was passed along to my seller so they could verify that the barrel would fit my receiver and headspace properly. He would have turned down the shank diameter if necessary but said it should slip right in, if a little tight just give it a slight rub down with sandpaper. Measurements taken regarding headspace showed concern about it being way too tight at 0.365" but what was found is that the barrel does not fully seat, the receiver face is not true. The barrel shoulder makes only slight contact with the receiver at 12 o'clock and this pushes out the headspace. I did a dry fit and held the barrel to the action with a bedding screw. I was able to close the bolt on my GO gauge, tight but it closed. Plastigage method was used to double check and indicated 0.425" headspace, we are good to glue! The compound will fill any gap between barrel and receiver.

Loctite 680 retaining compound is used, all parts are degreased with brake cleaner. Compound is applied around the mouth of the receiver and all over the barrel shank. The receiver was held in a vise and the barrel inserted into it with a twisting motion until the extractors on the cocked bolt slipped into their cutouts on the barrel and it bottomed out. A bedding screw is used to hold the barrel in place. Any excess loctite that leaked out is cleaned up, the vise is opened up and the barreled action flipped 180 so the vise grips the barrel with the muzzle pointing towards the floor. It is allowed 24 hours to cure and we're done! Re-assemble rifle and go shoot.

Here you can see how little contact the barrel made with the receiver, I used dry erase marker and fit the parts together. Only a small patch at 12 o'clock rubbed off.





 
Yes that certainly has been a project and good for you for sticking it through till the end. I like that group with the midas +. Have you tried any center x?
I see the RWS 50 similar to the federal ultra match gives you the same results as me ,one really good group and then crap.
I'm dying to get the 1813 out and test some ammunition.
Weather has finally warmed up but lots of snow up in the bush. I may get out tomorrow as I've been very busy working and renovating #1 sons new house.
Any way I'm sure happy for you to get some satisfaction from this build.
SC
 
Thanks savagecanuck, I really didn't want to give up on this one since it's so rare and I just looooovvvvve the Weatherby stock look. I haven't had any Center-X since "The Great SK/Lapua Famine" of 2016 LMAO. I've had such a healthy stock of other options that I was in no rush to drop another $1G on an SK/Lapua ammo order but as it seems SK and Lapua are always the top performers I think I'll just have to suck it up and re-load my stash. I was thinking:

(1) Can 500 SK Magazine
(2) Bricks SK Std +
(3) Bricks SK Rifle Match
(2) Brick Center-X
(1) Brick Midas +
(1) Brick X-Act
 
Thanks savagecanuck, I really didn't want to give up on this one since it's so rare and I just looooovvvvve the Weatherby stock look. I haven't had any Center-X since "The Great SK/Lapua Famine" of 2016 LMAO. I've had such a healthy stock of other options that I was in no rush to drop another $1G on an SK/Lapua ammo order but as it seems SK and Lapua are always the top performers I think I'll just have to suck it up and re-load my stash. I was thinking:

(1) Can 500 SK Magazine
(2) Bricks SK Std +
(3) Bricks SK Rifle Match
(2) Brick Center-X
(1) Brick Midas +
(1) Brick X-Act

I don't find the rifle match as good as the sk std +,maybe 1 rm and another center x?
I know what you mean on budget I just ordered a keltec sub 2000,1000 rounds 9mm ammo and another brick click SV tonight!
 
I don't find the rifle match as good as the sk std +,maybe 1 rm and another center x?
I know what you mean on budget I just ordered a keltec sub 2000,1000 rounds 9mm ammo and another brick click SV tonight!

Hmm, but you have the old branding of SK + and Rifle Match right? Since they changed to the black and yellow, black and red boxes respectively, I found the Rifle Match did shoot just that little bit better than Standard +. Magazine was a real sleeper and was quite good too.
 
Hmm, but you have the old branding of SK + and Rifle Match right? Since they changed to the black and yellow, black and red boxes respectively, I found the Rifle Match did shoot just that little bit better than Standard +. Magazine was a real sleeper and was quite good too.

I have both old and new std plus and older rifle match.
The new sk is better it's made in the Lapua factory now.
Ashmire at tesro says the new SK RM is his best seller, so yeah the new stuff is probably worth it,possible. I just prefer center x as it always seems to work well in every thing.
 
Out of curiosity, how long would ten bricks of .22LR ammo last when going to the range as regularly as you can? (Maybe that's the subject of its own thread?)

Back in the summer when I was hitting it hard, I was often bringing 3-4 rifles with me to the range on a weekly basis. Ammo testing, challenge attempts, fun targets chewed up about a brick per week.

I've since put some of those rifles back into the safe and am currently down to 1 good shooter. My usage will be different this year as the XXII has completed the challenge and I've found Lapua ammo is preferred for it so no more comprehensive testing. I'm participating in the monthly Rimfire Central 100 yard benchrest challenges where let's say an average of 100 rounds are used per attempt at it. I may only attempt it once per month, this month I did twice and used 250 rounds. Later in the year I'll get into Silhouette practice and shoot say 100 practice rounds in a session, a match uses 150 rounds (warmup then in competition) with matches being held on a semi-monthly basis.

Troubleshooting my rifles also chewed through piles of ammo. Every time I'd tweek something it's back to the range for a comprehensive ammo test (never know if the tweek worked for one of them) and a brick's worth of ammo. When the rifle shoots well and you don't have to do that, usage goes way down.
 
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Just make sure to keep it stored cool.I left a few boxes of a really good center x that worked well in my match 64 in my hot garage. I live in the okanagan were it gets really hot.
Anyway when I went to use it I could feel it wasn't very slippery and it's accuracy was crap.
 
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