I know, a re-barrelled stevens 200 isn't precision, but you guys can help better than most, that I know.
Back story to help you guys find my fault:
I removed the old barrel, pulled the extractor off the bolt, secured the new barrel and tightened the receiver until I felt it “bump” against the go gage, loosened a half of a half of a fraction of an inch, then secured the barrel nut, making sure the receiver didn't move. Minimal to no resistance closing bolt on go gauge
Took it out to range, fired with string and used a Wilson case gauge to check the fired brass. Wouldn't fit; only about 2/3 of the brass would slide into it. Looks like bad things will happen. Uh-oh. I must have f***ed up somewhere (this is my first try)
Back to the drawing board for try #2
Followed same procedure as before, only did NOT loosen receiver by fraction of an inch, and instead snugged it up a 1/8 fraction. This resulted in resistance within the first quarter of the way through closing the bolt, finally ending quite tight on go gauge. Dummied rounds were VERY TIGHT to try and close the bolt w/ extractor, to the point that I wasn't comfortable trying it.
F*** it, I still have to be doing something wrong. (yup, must be kind of an idiot)
Try three:
Followed same thing as first time, no f*cking around with tightening or loosening receiver. “bump” gage locked down barrel nut, make sure receiver doesn’t move. Resistance last quarter of bolt closing on the same dummied rounds that fit Wilson case gauge.
Got it! Out to the range, secure gun, shoot with string. Brass will not slide into case gauge, stops again – not shoulder hitting, more like fired brass stopping ¾ again.
So:
1)Am I missing some crucial yet simple step that has me over thinking this?
2)Am I complete idiot? (flame away with good advice- I need to learn somehow)
3)Or is this just the function of a rebarrelled stevens?
I’m NOT throwing in the towel on this one.
Gun info:
Stevens 200
.223
Shilen heavy prefit 1:9
Thanks guys.
Back story to help you guys find my fault:
I removed the old barrel, pulled the extractor off the bolt, secured the new barrel and tightened the receiver until I felt it “bump” against the go gage, loosened a half of a half of a fraction of an inch, then secured the barrel nut, making sure the receiver didn't move. Minimal to no resistance closing bolt on go gauge
Took it out to range, fired with string and used a Wilson case gauge to check the fired brass. Wouldn't fit; only about 2/3 of the brass would slide into it. Looks like bad things will happen. Uh-oh. I must have f***ed up somewhere (this is my first try)
Back to the drawing board for try #2
Followed same procedure as before, only did NOT loosen receiver by fraction of an inch, and instead snugged it up a 1/8 fraction. This resulted in resistance within the first quarter of the way through closing the bolt, finally ending quite tight on go gauge. Dummied rounds were VERY TIGHT to try and close the bolt w/ extractor, to the point that I wasn't comfortable trying it.
F*** it, I still have to be doing something wrong. (yup, must be kind of an idiot)
Try three:
Followed same thing as first time, no f*cking around with tightening or loosening receiver. “bump” gage locked down barrel nut, make sure receiver doesn’t move. Resistance last quarter of bolt closing on the same dummied rounds that fit Wilson case gauge.
Got it! Out to the range, secure gun, shoot with string. Brass will not slide into case gauge, stops again – not shoulder hitting, more like fired brass stopping ¾ again.
So:
1)Am I missing some crucial yet simple step that has me over thinking this?
2)Am I complete idiot? (flame away with good advice- I need to learn somehow)
3)Or is this just the function of a rebarrelled stevens?
I’m NOT throwing in the towel on this one.
Gun info:
Stevens 200
.223
Shilen heavy prefit 1:9
Thanks guys.