Recommend Set Up For Precision Reloading?

[beltfed]

I too started with the RockChucker kit, and think the press is excellent.
There are things that I have moved on from so I don't use the entire kit anymore (Eg. I use spray lube now, and not the lube pad, I've moved on from the beam scale, and now use an electronic scale.) I'd almost recommend piecing it together -I say almost, because you won't know what you like or dislike until you try it. As an example of this, I've loaded on the Lee press and think its total crap (at least the one I was working with). Sure it may do the job (and Mystic's experience means it may do it well) but for me, I was willing to spend the extra dough on the RCBS. I was glad I had the opportunity to opperate the Lee before I bought one.

Regardless of what you do now, the chances of you changing out tools are higher if you start with lower end equipment than if you start with the top end stuff.
I agree that while some of the top end equipment may not offer great advantages for the costs, it is unlikely it will leave you wanting for something better/faster/bigger and hopefully save you from buying something twice or three times.

 

[Rohann]

I too started with the RockChucker kit, and think the press is excellent.
There are things that I have moved on from so I don't use the entire kit anymore (Eg. I use spray lube now, and not the lube pad, I've moved on from the beam scale, and now use an electronic scale.) I'd almost recommend piecing it together -I say almost, because you won't know what you like or dislike until you try it. As an example of this, I've loaded on the Lee press and think its total crap (at least the one I was working with). Sure it may do the job (and Mystic's experience means it may do it well) but for me, I was willing to spend the extra dough on the RCBS. I was glad I had the opportunity to opperate the Lee before I bought one.

Regardless of what you do now, the chances of you changing out tools are higher if you start with lower end equipment than if you start with the top end stuff.
I agree that while some of the top end equipment may not offer great advantages for the costs, it is unlikely it will leave you wanting for something better/faster/bigger and hopefully save you from buying something twice or three times.

Hmm...interesting point. I do understand where you're coming from, but at the same time I don't have $300+ to spend on a high-end loading kit. I really don't need anything fast as of yet, as I only care about loading precisely and am loading for a bolt-rifle.

-Rohann

 

[Blackcloud]

I run a rotation of 1000 rounds of Lapua 308 brass. I still use my RCBS 10-10 scale, RCBS press, and use Redding comp dies / s-type bushing.

The tools I invested money in was a good set of calipers, K&M case mouth reamer, K&M pro flash hole uniformer, and a concentricity guage. The K&M tools are nice cause they center themselves in the flash hole and case mouth so you don't have to try and keep everything in line by hand when uniforming flash holes or champhering case mouths. They are not expensive, just handy.

I'm sure many far more experience reloaders than I will tell you its not that you own the most expensive tools, its how you use them. What I'm getting at is evey experience competition shooter I know has one thing in common when it comes to their reloading regiment,,, consistency!! Everything is done the same using the same tools, components, lot numbers, etc.

Most people aren't set up to reload and measure to the 1 trillionth of an inch, however, doing things the same all the time makes the difference.

Get some advice from someone in your area who is experienced, Parker-Hale-Mike is around there yes, no? Find a routine that works and get some solid, simple equipment you can use.

AND,,, happy shooting!

Hmm...interesting point. I do understand where you're coming from, but at the same time I don't have $300+ to spend on a high-end loading kit. I really don't need anything fast as of yet, as I only care about loading precisely and am loading for a bolt-rifle.

-Rohann

 

[Mystic Precision]

Rohann, how I would start up:

Lee anniversary kit with a set of Delux collet neck dies. You now have the hand primer with special shell holders, scale, dies, press shellholder, press, powder drop, scoop. The primer pocket cleaner will work in a pinch but get a Dewey when you can. You can use the Lee fixed length trimmer but if using the collet die, you will not need to trim during the life of that brass.

The neck deburring duties can be taken care of by that rather odd tool that Lee provides but a RCBS unit is much better.

Flash hole deburring tool is from RCBS.

In time, you can get a Forster trimmer and outside neck turner. There are several 'better' neck turning set ups but have not tried them.

I use the Hornady or Frankford Arsenal spray case lube (no lub e pads for me). I use the RCBS liq lube for inside the neck. Never tried graphite but something for down the road. You will not need any lube if using the collet die.

After quite a bit of use, the cast lever toggle part on the press WILL break. Lee keeps threatening to reinforce that part but not seen any improvement yet. That is the only weak part in the whole press. Someone on this board did make a steel replacement part and I am sure the press will last forever.

In time, you may get fed up replacing that part every year or so. The new Classic press is an ideal and SBH replacement. Way less money then the RCBS etal and equally strong, maybe stronger and geared for the BMG.

Get loading and as you use the gear, you will find things you like and dislike. I have tried alot of other gear from many manf and have settled on the above.

For dies, I stick to the collet neck die whenever possible. It works so well. For seating, and FL sizing, I have used everything from Lee dies to body dies from Redding. Keep an eye on runout whenever an expander plug is used in the neck expansion.

This is the major source of runout and case length growth.

Best investment you can make - Sinclair Runout guage. That way you can test each step to see what you are getting.

After getting mine and testing all the fancy stuff and the Lee, I found that the Lee did an equal if not better job in most cases.

Start making ammo!

Jerry

 

[Jamie]

I just broke my lee press I hope lee will cover it..........FL sizing some 308 brass,I will post some pictures soon


I have two presses a Reloader Special-5 Press and the LEE

I use Redding,Lyman and Lee Dies

Jamie

 

[mouse]

+1 for K&M I use their neck turner, pro flash hole uniformer, and primer pocket uniformer. Great stuff!

 

[Jamie]

I would look at a Kit like the RockChucker


I am looking at the Lyman Crusher II as my next press and a Dillon 10/50



Jamie

 

[Mystic Precision]

Jamie, if that is the new Classic cast press, I am greatly dissappointed and surprised. Looked like they were using steel parts in the lever assemblies.

If that is a Challenger, I have never seen that handle set up.

Jerry

 

[Long Range Canuck]

Exactly what happend to mine. Almost looks like the same fracture line. I never tried for waranty, needed a new press now and got the Redding, but have heard with Lee waranty has never been a problem.

 

[knockknock]

Something else to ponder on presses. Some have more room than others. Having a small collection of 338LMs now forced me to buy a bigger press. A Rockchucker or Big Boss or if you can find 1, an Orange Crusher will work for most things. Once you get into RUMs or Lapuas then the added height is nice. I have loaded the Lapua on a Rockchucker, but it is a pain in the butt.
Just went to a Redding Ultra Mag press, problem solved. I too broke a Lee press years ago took a few stitches to keep the rug from getting too much more red juice of life on it when it broke, so have no Lee stuff on my bench anymore.
1 purchase that disappointed me was the scale and powder dispenser combinations, I tried the Lyman and the RCBS , both went back to the suppliers.
For powder handling I use a RCBS Uniflow and get the powder charges close then trickle in the balance while on the scale. If using a digital always put the powder into the pan after you are sure it has set to zero, I made the mistake of dispensing directly into the pan , then putting the pan with powder onto the scale, took some figuring to find out whay the loads were all over the target, now I use the dispenser into a plastic cup and then into the pan on the scale. I am not expalining this well I know, I am old humor me.
One thing you will find about reloading is there are a million different preferences and opinions, the hard part is to try and strike a balance that works for you.
Bench layout is another concern, every new reloader I have ever met has exactly 1/2 as much bench as they really need. There are several advantages to BIG benchs, more room for stuff, more room to loose stuff, easier to camoflage new aquisitions from the book keeper/wife not to mention more room to stack crap you will never get finished.
It's all good!

I find that the "loading kits" that all the makers put out have some good points but they also include some useless or lower quality junk to help it look like a great deal. My suggestion is buy what you really want or need as opposed to a package that may not have things you require or use.
Something no-one else hit on was tricklers, yeah I know they are all the same, I found that the light weight 1s like Hornady and RCBS tipped over easily. The Redding 1 is quite heavy. Being cheap I epoxied some lead shot into the bottom of my Hornady trickler, this helped alot.
KK

 

[Rohann]

Rohann, how I would start up:

Lee anniversary kit with a set of Delux collet neck dies. You now have the hand primer with special shell holders, scale, dies, press shellholder, press, powder drop, scoop. The primer pocket cleaner will work in a pinch but get a Dewey when you can. You can use the Lee fixed length trimmer but if using the collet die, you will not need to trim during the life of that brass.

The neck deburring duties can be taken care of by that rather odd tool that Lee provides but a RCBS unit is much better.

Flash hole deburring tool is from RCBS.

In time, you can get a Forster trimmer and outside neck turner. There are several 'better' neck turning set ups but have not tried them.

I use the Hornady or Frankford Arsenal spray case lube (no lub e pads for me). I use the RCBS liq lube for inside the neck. Never tried graphite but something for down the road. You will not need any lube if using the collet die.

After quite a bit of use, the cast lever toggle part on the press WILL break. Lee keeps threatening to reinforce that part but not seen any improvement yet. That is the only weak part in the whole press. Someone on this board did make a steel replacement part and I am sure the press will last forever.

In time, you may get fed up replacing that part every year or so. The new Classic press is an ideal and SBH replacement. Way less money then the RCBS etal and equally strong, maybe stronger and geared for the BMG.

Get loading and as you use the gear, you will find things you like and dislike. I have tried alot of other gear from many manf and have settled on the above.

For dies, I stick to the collet neck die whenever possible. It works so well. For seating, and FL sizing, I have used everything from Lee dies to body dies from Redding. Keep an eye on runout whenever an expander plug is used in the neck expansion.

This is the major source of runout and case length growth.

Best investment you can make - Sinclair Runout guage. That way you can test each step to see what you are getting.

After getting mine and testing all the fancy stuff and the Lee, I found that the Lee did an equal if not better job in most cases.

Start making ammo!

Jerry

Thanks for the replies! So thats:
-Lee Anniversary Kit
-Lee Delux collet dies
-Dewey Primer pocket cleaner (is this one needed?). And I won't have to trim during the life of the brass? What exactly does the trimmer do?
-Flash hole deburring tool from RCBS???
-Forster trimmer and outside neck turner?
And I won't need to lube if buying the collet dies?
-Sinclair runout gauge?

Also, would you mind explaining these to me (I'm really new to this):

For dies, I stick to the collet neck die whenever possible. It works so well. For seating, and FL sizing, I have used everything from Lee dies to body dies from Redding. Keep an eye on runout whenever an expander plug is used in the neck expansion.

This is the major source of runout and case length growth.

Also, when is it not possible to use the collet neck die?

You can use the Lee fixed length trimmer but if using the collet die, you will not need to trim during the life of that brass.

The neck deburring duties can be taken care of by that rather odd tool that Lee provides but a RCBS unit is much better.

Flash hole deburring tool is from RCBS.

In time, you can get a Forster trimmer and outside neck turner. There are several 'better' neck turning set ups but have not tried them.

Also, does Higginson carry all of this in stock?

Thanks a lot for the help! It's much appreciated.







knockknock: Is there anything you'd recommend swapping from the Lee kit besides the things Jerry mentioned?
Also, could you help me out on this :

For powder handling I use a RCBS Uniflow and get the powder charges close then trickle in the balance while on the scale. If using a digital always put the powder into the pan after you are sure it has set to zero, I made the mistake of dispensing directly into the pan , then putting the pan with powder onto the scale, took some figuring to find out whay the loads were all over the target, now I use the dispenser into a plastic cup and then into the pan on the scale. I am not expalining this well I know, I am old humor me.

One last thing: Is there somewhere I can find a rundown on all the basic components and what they do, so I don't feel like such a dolt? Thanks a lot guys!

PS: Holy crap, it feels like I've gotten into shooting all over again! I really picked the right hobby; I can't see myself EVER getting bored of any of this.

-Rohann

 

[bisonhd]

D&R Sports has decent prices on Redding stuff. The deluxe die sets come with full length and neck dies and if you really want to get fancy, go for the neck bushing dies.

I can live without a micrometer on my seating die.

 

[knockknock]

Rohann A digital scale tends to not always maintain it's calibration, they are sensitive enough to change zero with changes in barometric pressure .
If you do not check to see that the scale is at zero before you put powder into the pan, you risk the chance of either having a lighter or heavier powder charge than the cartridge loaded previously.
By putting the empty pan back onto the scale you can instantly tell if the scale needs to be rezeroed before dropping in the next charge to be weighed.
Using a seperate powder cup is then needed to go from the powder throw to the pan. Yes this adds a step to the powder weighing operation, but eliminates 1 more variable in the accuracy equation.
I know nothing of Lee products other than the 1 press I did have broke. I know lots of guys use Lee products but I have always thought of Lee is bottom of the line, this is jaded I know but in the circles I grew up in, the guys who helped me learn were fanatics for accuracy and quality, so Hollywood, C&H and RCBS were considered the only acceptable gear to buy. Ofcourse now Hollywood is history, C&H now only does dies and some specialty tools, RCBS is mass produced and the world has changed alot.
Personally I am slowly changing all of my dies over to Redding Type S match, only 32 calibers left to go at last count.
Please do not take this as being eliteist, I just am in a position where 1, I buy it well and 2, I can afford to, and 3 anything that will help me shoot better I buy. At my age I need all the help I can get.
I would look around through the bargain papers, I am sure you have them up there, see if you can find some savings by buying a used press, possibly some other used gear, tricklers, powder throws etc never wear out and really can not be damaged without it being very noticeable.
Used dies I shy away from and scales I believe are THEE most important part of the equation, good used 1s do exist, but be sure to check the weight it displays with another scale, or "check weights" to be sure it is good to use.
Many shooters are getting on in age and it is possible to get good gear from those who have retired from the sport, or those who no longer shoot, as heavan has free and endless ammo anyway.

 

[Rohann]

Rohann A digital scale tends to not always maintain it's calibration, they are sensitive enough to change zero with changes in barometric pressure .
If you do not check to see that the scale is at zero before you put powder into the pan, you risk the chance of either having a lighter or heavier powder charge than the cartridge loaded previously.
By putting the empty pan back onto the scale you can instantly tell if the scale needs to be rezeroed before dropping in the next charge to be weighed.
Using a seperate powder cup is then needed to go from the powder throw to the pan. Yes this adds a step to the powder weighing operation, but eliminates 1 more variable in the accuracy equation.

Ohhh ok, thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind. I really don't mind having to check if the scale is zeroed, or adding an extra step to the equation, as long as it ensures accuracy; I'm fairly patient when it comes to this kind of thing, and I don't mind tedious work.

I'd like to spend coin on a high-end reloader, but it's simply not practical for me to do so at this time, as funds are limiting. Hopefully that will change soon, but I want to get a setup that will at least enable me to simply accurately reload.
Also, is there any substitute you'd recommend for certain Lee components other than what Jerry mentioned?

-Rohann

 

[JasonYuke]

Maybe for a BR shooter, but for an acrooss the ccourse shooter, TR, Palma, etc.
the Wilson arbor and Wilson dies are wway too slow.Plus, a new shooter would have to save for over a yeear deepeending on their buudget.
let's get real folks.
BTW, I use Wilson as well a Dillon, RCBS, Lyman, Lee and Herters.
So I am not talking from a personal; preferance but form an unbiased point of view.
Some p[eole don't like a particular brand of anything, it's a Ford /Chevy thing IMHO.
get what you can affford, bbut don't go overboard because you THINK you have to....
Cat

Cat your right i was thinking the ease of use for this but 200.00 for a seater and neck die, and than you still need a press and a full sizer to reform your brass time to time depending,
However its a simple method easy to use but it limits you to neck sizing and seating!
Once you get into the target side of thing have a look at this system, like I said you cant literaly go wrong with wilson with its push in and push out approach.
But cats right for practical reasons a single stage good quality press and tight reloading and sorting guidelines, proper scales and wieghing out each load, trimming and case prep, will get you there with almost every single stage press and die set.
There are alot of tricks you can do with any dies and seaters like bumping and partial sizing , and seating depth selections that will get you 90% of the way and hell may not get that load any better than than. So my advice start reloading to spec get a load that works well than fool with the seating depth and sizing proceedures, trimming and primers, go from there, If your serious you will find your own style dies, and press for what you need!
Cheers

 

[catnthehatt]

Yup, for pure accuracy it would be hard to get better than Wilson stuff.
And you can use the dies as a hand die also, which I like at the range.
The cost will stagger some people when they look at that stuff however!
Sure is fun to look though....
cat

 

[JoeP's old business account]

Hey all.

Know this is not the Reloading Section, but want to ask the guys who are into precision reloading....................

After a frustrating range trip today with 3 different types of factory rounds, I am going to get started at reloading.

Gonna go single stage press.

What do you guys recommend for brand and model of press? Dies? Reloading books, scale and anything else that I am gonna need.

Will be reloading from the smallest center fire up to the biggest someday, so the press (except 50 BMG) should be able to handle most lengths of cartridges.

What kind of start up costs would I be looking at? Ballpark.............

Lots of great advice, but keep in mind you get what you pay for. Resale value is also something to consider and the best makers of quality product are Redding and RCBS sort of full blown custom dies and presses. RCBS has always made nice equipment as has Redding (which we carry).

http://www.redding-reloading.com/

Look to the bigger presses - size up from the Redding Big Boss II and Rockchucker II (?) if you are going to load VLD bullets and bigger cases. For all purpose reloading the Rockchucker was fine but a bit small for larger cases...the Boss II is bigger works a bit better but still seems small...so its off to the ULTRAMAG

http://www.redding-reloading.com/pages/ultramag.html


Give some thought to tools used for uniforming brass - neck turning, flash hole uniforming / chamfering....perhaps down the road. Try to stick to quality brass as well - Lapua, Norma and Nosler.


Almost forgot you can also go with an arbor press and Wilson dies (hand dies). Quality dies and tools. They make a great trimmer as well. I still need to finish off about 6 arbor presses. I only have a few large post ones left for the larger casings......LOL

Powder measures...well Harrell makes some wonderful measures. Scales...always good to have a balance beam as a back up to a digital. When load developing with a digital you need to have a good notes or memory because once you lift the charge of the digital scale it goes to zero unlike a balance beam which reminds you were you were!

 

[Max Owner]

Thanx for the replies, so far.

Can I get a break down of what people recommend for individual components?

Digital scale make and model.
Balance scale.
Tools, etc............

Been looking around on the net and I'm getting a head ache...................

Leaning towards RCBS or Redding press, so far.

 

[beltfed]

Hmm...interesting point. I do understand where you're coming from, but at the same time I don't have $300+ to spend on a high-end loading kit. I really don't need anything fast as of yet, as I only care about loading precisely and am loading for a bolt-rifle.

-Rohann

How much have you got into your rifle? Hate to break it to you, but $300 is a drop in the bucket on what you will end up spending.
You will save money loading your own match .308, but it is still going to cost you a small fortune...
Don't get me wrong, I have Dillon, Redding, RCBS, Lyman, and Lee for my reloading duties, so I'm not being elitist, but I would strongly suggest steering clear of the Lee press....as always, ymmv. Good luck with your decision.

 

[Savage]

How much have you got into your rifle? Hate to break it to you, but $300 is a drop in the bucket on what you will end up spending.
You will save money loading your own match .308, but it is still going to cost you a small fortune...
Don't get me wrong, I have Dillon, Redding, RCBS, Lyman, and Lee for my reloading duties, so I'm not being elitist, but I would strongly suggest steering clear of the Lee press....as always, ymmv. Good luck with your decision.

Mike I agree I have about 5x that amount tied up in reloading equipment