Recycling and reworking other peoples reloads.

steelgray

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Recycling and reworking other peoples reloads.

I'm sure that at one time or another, we've all had opportunities to buy somebody else’s reloads. You occasionally see these sold at gun shows where, for example, the seller may not know anything about that bunch of reloads – and may have just got the stuff from a friend or in a trade – or something like that.

Another example of the same type is a situation that has recently faced me. I had a chance to buy a whole bunch of reloads in 7.62X39 and 38 special, etc. from a gun shop – where the shop was selling the stuff on consignment. In that instance, the identity of the original reloader was known and he had had a long history of blowing up guns. This gentleman was selling his remaining stuff as he moved into a retirement home.

I'm sure some of the readers here who are kind of “that way” will be having a panic attack over the mere thought of buying this stuff. However, I did buy it at a good price – and haven't done anything with the lot so far.

A quick examination showed that the guy had left himself some notes sometimes specifying what powder he'd used and what his load was. Right off the bat, I found a small number of 7.62X39 reloads where the guy’s note – to himself – said that these were loaded with W680 and 85 gr. soft points and was clocked at over 3,100! Most of the rest of the X39 was 123 gr soft points – in seemingly conventional loadings (according to my cursory review – to-date).

These days primers are hard to get and even projectiles and powders are getting hard to obtain and/ or expensive. Accordingly, you can make a legitimate argument for taking these rounds apart and recycling some of the components. I'm sure that the super-safe way to do it is to disassemble each rounds with one of those RCBS bullet pullers, throw away the powder, decap the cases (which are all boxer primed) and save the remaining components (reloadable brass, primers and projectiles) for future use.

It seems a shame to throw away substantial amounts of recovered powders – especially where the ammo contains note saying what the powder is. Further, it is not terribly hard to establish the likelihood of what that powder is by matching its appearance to confirmed, known lots of, say AA1680 – and further verifying things by measuring powder density etc. However, as noted so far, I’m planning to dump the powders – even if everything says its, for example AA1680 – but others may have an opinion there.

I’ve also thought of lightening-up loads – for example taking loads apart and rethrowing the powder reducing each 38 Special round loading by some number of grains (compared to the other guy’s load). A variation on this variation would be to just pull the 158 or 180 grain projectiles – in the 38 Special reloads and replace these with lighter pills, say in the range of 110-125 grain pills – reusing that other guy’s existing powder load – so that one assumes you’d have an improved margin of safety. After that, I could do the testing – using a gun borrowed from someone else. I could do the same thing with the X39 reloads – say pulling the 123 gr projectiles and reseating 100-110s grain pills – just to err on the side of caution.

Some people might say just pull the X39 reloads apart and make them into “Mexican” (meaning “underpowered”) reloads – made by dumping the existing powder into a 303 British case – so that any possible overloading would be overcome.

What do you say?
 
I say I see a future in a walk pan full awf awd chit fur a buck a round setting awn a gun show table.
I'm never fearful of reloads.............t'uthers that is.
Bust'im apart and yewse dew dilligence.
 
If you pull the bullets on the 7.62 ammo and dump the powder why also decap them? I'd leave them in and reload with known powder and start lower and look for pressure signs.
Primers are too expensive to throw out nowadays lol.

The 38spl I would fire in a 357 gun I think instead of trying to disassemble.
If they have lead bullets then taking them apart is nearly impossible with a collet puller without damaging the bullets and the hammer style puller gets old after a couple.
 
Ive never intentionally purchased someone else’s reloads but I did buy a 460XVR that came with about 200 rounds of 460S&W and 454 Casull.
There were notes and all kinds of different bullets but I pulled all the 460 and I started pulling the 454 Casull.
I weighed each charge and they were all within 0.5gr which isn’t bad for a 33gr load.
They were on the upper end of the load but in a 460 I wasn’t worried about it coming apart.
 
I've been recycling other people's handloads for quite some time. I think there is one other guy I know who I would trust when it comes to using someone elses recipe. Everything else from everyone else gets broken down for the components.
My latest batch of 25-20 ammo was originally 32-20 rounds. The leftover bullets work great for plinker loads in my 303 rifles.
As an aside with the high cost of primers in particular I have had very few misfires from the rounds I have repurposed. Not that I would recommend reusing them for hunting rounds but for general purpose use I give them a try.
 
If you are willing to put your safety in someone else reload..trust that he did not screw up by using the wrong powder or else, be my guess.
You are master of your own destiny.
Experienced reloader that used the wrong powder…
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It only happen to others..I am sure that shooting someone else reload make you feel superman..
 

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Thanks for comments. When I said decap I meant decap to recover and reuse the primers. I have a tool that gets them out without damage - ready for reuse. As for just shooting the 38 Specials in a 357 wheel gun, I thought of that. The guy would have really had to screw up his 38 Special lead loads to KB a 357 gun. I suppose I'd pull a few sample 38 specials anyway just to make sure that things seem Okay. You are right they are loaded with lead - and the only way to get lead projectiles out without damage tends to be using one of those kinetic bullet pullers.

I one time used one of those kinetic bullet pullers to eventually take apart about 800 FACTORY rounds of PRVI .243 win that was WAY off SAAMI spec - to the point that the stuff was dangerous. I loaded that stuff down and still have some of it. 800 rounds with a kinetic bullet pullers is great way to get RSI. That was 30 years ago before I'd heard of collet bullet pullers.

To the guy (bjmurata) who mentioned he recovered projectiles from 32-20 rounds and used these for plinker loads in his 303 rifles - what a hoot! I actually bought 1,300 Remington 100 gr sp .311 new/ never loaded projectiles in the same purchase. They cost me around $50-80. I made up a 303 British load with those and shot them for the first time today. My load was 46 grains of AA2460. At 100 yards they shoot at the same point of impact as my pull down 123 gr steel core 303 British load - which is handy - but the group size was probably 10 inches - while the same gun with my 123 gr steel core pull down AK bullets (using either uploaded AK donor powder or AA2460) will shoot 4 inch groups all day. I may still play around with those 100 gr. .311s in my 303 British or could try them in 7.62x39 guns or resize them and use them in an M1 carbine or a 7.62x25 gun .
 
As for post 6 about a blown up gun when the wrong powder is used; this is more of a problem using pistol powder in a rifle then the other way around.

The bloody finger picture above is likely from the rifle incident and not from the revolver that is pictured as the bottom half of the cilinder was still in place so the shrapnel went up and to the sides.

Maybe ganderite or someone else with more balistic knowledge can chime in what a kind of pressure a double charge in 38spl would generate and if that would be within 357 mag tolerance.
 
Low charge weight high energy powders would be easy to double or triple charge a 38 special with pressures above 357 pressures. Bullseye would be one of them. Thinking they would be safe to fire in a 357 isn’t smart.
I wouldn’t risk firing unknown reloads.
 
Low charge weight high energy powders would be easy to double or triple charge a 38 special with pressures above 357 pressures. Bullseye would be one of them. Thinking they would be safe to fire in a 357 isn’t smart.
I wouldn’t risk firing unknown reloads.

Like I said, just because they are 38 Special lead loads I wouldn't assume their safe in a 357 gun. I'll take some apart and look for signs that something is wrong then weigh all to exclude the possibility of double charges. I'm also planning to do the testing in someone else gun. Any volunteers?
 
I've seen people buying reloads at gun shows.

Some of those look really good, all bright and polished.

IMHO, it's a BAD PRACTICE TO SHOOT THOSE RELOADS.

I'm guilty of purchasing reloaded ammo for rifles that require obsolete cartridges. I don't shoot them. I pull them apart and dump the powder/primers.

I've done this with large lots of hand loaded 455 Webley. Never once found what appeared to be a double charge, but I did find powder that was obviously wrong for the cartridge in the pistol I was going to shoot.

OP, this is just IMHO, if you don't know who loaded those cartridges, purchase them for components only. I do have friends whose handloads I would trust, but I won't take a chance with unknowns.

IMHO, someone else's reloads are purchased for the value of the components only.

This advice goes for shotgun reloads as well.
 
I could see pulling the bullets and using the bullets/primed cases, but I would not trust the powder.

I was given a bunch of reloads, all a family members. The pistol rounds were all from 1 powder, I checked the loads and was not happy with how they dropped so bought a collet and pulled 1200 reloads :O. The powder was known and has been saved in its original container. There were also some rifle reloads, he never shot that rifle and the load notes were actually mine, so I knew the powder from my own notes and broke it down as such.

The other rifle ammo we were unsure if it was a reload for factory, bulled the bullets, dumped the powder and have now loaded them with a start load of known powder just to make the gun go bang.

I would not trust just anyone's reloads, even if I pulled bullets to check. I have a stash of reloads from a guy getting out of it, I marked them as such and stored them for now, only because I do not have that particular powder to compare to so will put those away for later.
 
I've seen people buying reloads at gun shows.

Some of those look really good, all bright and polished.

IMHO, it's a BAD PRACTICE TO SHOOT THOSE RELOADS.

I'm guilty of purchasing reloaded ammo for rifles that require obsolete cartridges. I don't shoot them. I pull them apart and dump the powder/primers.

I've done this with large lots of hand loaded 455 Webley. Never once found what appeared to be a double charge, but I did find powder that was obviously wrong for the cartridge in the pistol I was going to shoot.

OP, this is just IMHO, if you don't know who loaded those cartridges, purchase them for components only. I do have friends whose handloads I would trust, but I won't take a chance with unknowns.

IMHO, someone else's reloads are purchased for the value of the components only.

This advice goes for shotgun reloads as well.

I bought a batch of nominally once fired brass - 7mm Weatherby Magnum - mixed in was what ended up about 30 loaded rounds. Seller claimed to have no knowledge what they were or where they came from - no notes, at all. I pulled down those loaded rounds - visually was at least two different looking powders used, and three bullet weights. Might have made perfect sense at one time to someone, but all mixed up as I received them - but the powder got dumped and the primers got "popped off" - I did not know what those primers were or if they were the same to each other - it was the Weatherby headstamped brass that I was after. I do not recall actually firing anyone else's hand loads - and I no longer reload for others, unless I also get their rifle to do a pressure series and work up a load. I discovered that many equate "reloaded ammo" with "much cheaper than to buy at the store" - and is a tendency not to spend much time on data or minutia like that - going "bang" seems to be good enough for many shooters.
 
well I have got some sketchy random ammo from auctions, you get whatever is in the box....

I take them apart for components

except the big batch of 22 Hornet, about 500 rounds, data was clear and matched what was in the manuals, everything looked matching, and a few pulled down bullets appeared to be fine

so 22 Hornet in a converted 303 Enfield.... I'm still shooting it
 
Really with reloading there's a few absolute rules: don't blow your face off, one set of components on the bench at a time, and don't shoot someone else's reloads.

Years ago I got a large magnum, from a relative of a gunsmith...estate. I was willing to trust the source of the reloads that came with it. My seller said, his Uncle had cancer off n on for years, not always lucid. The listed components were bang on when I pulled some. Resized the neck, started two grains less than the not max originals. Quickly worked up, and shot the rest. That's about as out there as I've ever gone, reloading. I really have no reason to push any firearm.. a few other choices.
 
A very long time ago a good Friend sold me a few pounds of Powder (packaged in Milk Cartons) he obtained in a Trade at a Gunshow. The Powder was labeled and compared nicely to my own Powder. Fast forward on the Gun Range, I squeezed the trigger on the first reload of this Powder. My Rifle .338 Browning Safari Grade loaded with my usual 250 Gr. Roundnose Bullets big kaboom and I found myself laying on my Back behind the Shooting Bench.
After getting backup and into my Chair probably looking a bit rattled I am trying to open the Bolt without success. Finely opens up at home after getting some lovin with a wooden Mallet but the extractor Claw is now ruined.

Casing shows excessive Primer Pocket enlargement, I kept it to remind me. Rifle no apparent damage, got a new (actual) several extractor Claws from the Browning Dealer but in 40+ years after with many Rounds fired never needed another one. Powder got dispersed into the Flower Garden.

I would have no problem reusing pulled Bullets and Primers for plinking or not so serious target practice only but Powder from opened Factory Cans or otherwise is a definitely no no.

Cheers
 
As for post 6 about a blown up gun when the wrong powder is used; this is more of a problem using pistol powder in a rifle then the other way around.

The bloody finger picture above is likely from the rifle incident and not from the revolver that is pictured as the bottom half of the cilinder was still in place so the shrapnel went up and to the sides.

Maybe ganderite or someone else with more balistic knowledge can chime in what a kind of pressure a double charge in 38spl would generate and if that would be within 357 mag tolerance.


Been there. Done that. (An accidental double charge of 38 Spl, shot in a 357)

Over the years, I did it twice. I since addressed the issue with my Dillon that made it possible.

I never fired a double charge in a 38. That would blow up for sure. It blew the cylinder up in a S&W 357. In a Ruger Blackhawk nothing happened, but my ears rang and my hand stung.

A max load of Tite Group in a 38-158 is about 5.2 gr. A 357 max is 5.8ish.
A max load of Unique in a 38-158 is about 5.5 gr. A 357 max is 7.0ish.
A max load of Win231 in a 38-158 is about 5.2 gr. A 357 max is 6.8ish.

In each case, a 38 double charge is way over max in a 357.

I have examined many blown up guns. In handguns, usually a double charge. In rifles, usually wrong powder. Pistol ball powder looks the same as rifle ball powder. I wish they had colour dots in those powders.
 
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