Reloading Questions...

[Every Shot Counts]

Not that I have a centerfire yet, but should I get into LR precision shooting next year before I move on, some very basic questions and I am sure many I am not asking. I would like to improve a bit more with my CZ457 MTR and become more consistent before going to a 6.5 Creedmore or PRC (or are there better choices).

How long do brass casings last? Is it a function of the load or other factors?

What about cost vs buying upper end ammo or are they all reasonably consistent, and I would assume upper end ammo is nearly as good as loading your own if you are particular about it or experiment.

I see that centerfire bullet weights vary and as a .22 shooter, something to think about the advantages and disadvantages of more or less grains.

Many more questions I am not aware of.

 

[I Dont Care About You]

I would like to improve a bit more with my CZ457 MTR and become more consistent before going to a 6.5 Creedmore or PRC (or are there better choices)

There are loads of good choices. The PRC cases are non-belted magnums and will produce a lot of recoil. A newbie would be much better served with a less powerful round.

223 Rem is perfectly capable to ranges way longer than most people think. 223 is cheap and easy to find. There are literally dozens of different cartridges that are capable long range shooters. The 65 Creedmoor is simply the latest and greatest trend. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the old 308 Win.

How long do brass casings last?

Depends

Is it a function of the load or other factors?

Yes.

I see that centerfire bullet weights vary and as a .22 shooter, something to think about the advantages and disadvantages of more or less grains.

Grain is a unit of weight. You would never ask about the advantages of more "pounds" or less "ounces". I know a ton of people are using the word "grains" incorrectly, but that is no reason you should.

The weight of a projectile has an effect on the shape as well as the Ballistic Coefficient (measurement of drag) and the impact energy of the projectile. The answer to your question is, "it depends".

 

[270WSMXBolt]

There are a crapload of factors that effect case life. Case shape and load pressure are what I think are the two main factors IMO. Brass quality is also critical. I have had many nickel plate, short mag cases start failing after 3 firings without annealing. My reloads are intended to maximize the performance of the bullet choice for hunting so I try to keep the speed and weight up at the high end for the type of cartridge. This puts more stress on the cases particularly with the magnum powders. I anneal every case after firing, every time now. Reloading won't save you money at first but gives you more control to tune your cartridge/rifle. Cheers

 

[Every Shot Counts]

A newbie would be much better served with a less powerful round.

Well I have fired a 7.62 x 54 in an old Mosin-Nagant. Nice and punchy with nothing at the end of the stock to absorb anything.

 

[Longstud]

Reloading or buying quality factory ammo? It will be dependent on how much you’re going to shoot. The initial investment for quality reloading equipment plus all the supplies like powder,primers,bullets and case lube plus some way to clean cases and buying the cases will add up quickly. So if your going to just shoot 200-300 a year I’d buy factory and see what your gun likes. Sell the once fired brass and buy more for next year. Reloading lets you control all the variables when you can acquire the chosen components. Custom handloaded ammo will always be more accurate. You’ll never see a benchrest match shooter or really most competitive disciplines using factory ammo.

 

[1oldfart]

Getting into reloading is't getting into affordable ammo. If done right it will give you more consistant ammo tailored to what your particular gun likes. It will take years and thousands and thousands of rounds before you see a return on your investment. That being said reloading can be a vey rewarding experience.

 

[wallz]

I had a custom rifle built in 6.5 PRC for my hunting rifle. Then put one together by myself in the 6.5 CM for my bench shooting use.

I went from shooting 100 shots a year to well over 2000 per year once I got into reloading. Did I save?? Well lets look at it this way. My per round for the 6.5 CM is around $1.1 per shot. That is factoring 10 reloadings per brass. The cheapest factory ammo is sitting over $2.2 per shot. So I gained accuracy, and saved PER shot. In the end the savings per round just go into I shoot a LOT more, so depends on what your end goals are going to be.

I love the 6.5 CM off the bench and it has way less recoil than the 6.5 PRC, but its also comparing a 9.5 lb rifle to 18 lb rifle.

I have had a low as 6 reloads on my brass, but I was running those hot. 2950 fps for a 139 gr tip on the 6.4CM in a 26" barrel. I have since slowed those down to 2850 fps when I went to a small primer brass.

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

A great caliber for new shooters and reloaders IMO, is the 6.5 Grendel. While it is a "newer" cartridge being under 20 years old, it's a round thats gaining popularity. It's a short action length, which has a lot of bonuses. While not as important as it was, it fits into an AR style magazine, it doesn't eat alot of powder per reload (24ish grain vs 40+For a .308.) It's bullet is inherently accurate, and when shot it doesn't give a pile of felt recoil (kickback)
Oh yes a pound is 7000 grains meaning you can get about 2 times the amount of reloads from the lb of powder. Once you get into reloading and start crunching cost per reload, it adds up. I've never been smart and added a .338 Lapua Magnum to my plinkers, I get 80ish rounds per pound of powder. As stated earlier the Grendel uses 24ish,
It's able to take most N.A. game,
A large variety of bullets and powder can be used for it.
Another bonus is you can convert 7.62x39 brass into 6.5x39 brass (grendel) which is large primer vs the standard small primer, giving a reloader options for primers
More gun makers are offering something, in the chambering.
It's not a bad choice for a person who want to get into reloading, and shooting at the same time.

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

I had a custom rifle built in 6.5 PRC for my hunting rifle. Then put one together by myself in the 6.5 CM for my bench shooting use.

I went from shooting 100 shots a year to well over 2000 per year once I got into reloading. Did I save?? Well lets look at it this way. My per round for the 6.5 CM is around $1.1 per shot. That is factoring 10 reloadings per brass. The cheapest factory ammo is sitting over $2.2 per shot. So I gained accuracy, and saved PER shot. In the end the savings per round just go into I shoot a LOT more, so depends on what your end goals are going to be.

I love the 6.5 CM off the bench and it has way less recoil than the 6.5 PRC, but its also comparing a 9.5 lb rifle to 18 lb rifle.

I have had a low as 6 reloads on my brass, but I was running those hot. 2950 fps for a 139 gr tip on the 6.4CM in a 26" barrel. I have since slowed those down to 2850 fps when I went to a small primer brass.

I hear you, I've got rifles that are less spendy when shooting, offset by a 338LM which absolutely eats high value powder and bullets. I used to keep my iron sight skills up with a Ruger PCC, well that's illegal now to use, so I now have to use a SKS (for now).Cost for most 30 cal and below about a buck, depending on bullet. My Magnum 3.5+ per shot

 

[maynard]

If you are getting into center fire rifles and want to shoot long range (1000 yards) I would go with a fast twist .223. Tikka T3's come with a 1:8" twist that will allow you to shoot up to 80 gr bullets out to 1000 yards and will keep up in the wind when compared to a .308 shooting 155 gr bullets.
The .223 is about 1/2 the price of shooting .308. When you burn the barrel out after about 5000-6000 rounds, rebarrel and carry on.

The thing about long range shooting is that if you want to be good at it, you need lots of trigger time. The cheaper that you can reload mean more ammo you can make, equals more trigger time. If you are worried about the cost of ammo or the cost of reloading, stick with your .22.

 

[Every Shot Counts]

The thing about long range shooting is that if you want to be good at it, you need lots of trigger time. The cheaper that you can reload mean more ammo you can make, equals more trigger time. If you are worried about the cost of ammo or the cost of reloading, stick with your .22.

Not an issue but looking for the best bang for the buck. Reading the posts above, there will be a learning curve to this if I get into it. Not an issue either as I am hands-on big time, ran a lab and can figure things out on my own.

I should have mentioned in my opening post, I only shoot paper.

Yes, a .223 or NATO 5.56 would do me fine as well. Will hit the 200 yards later this summer with the .22. At the moment, I want to see more consistency in my 100 yard targets, presently getting most of the 10 shots into a Toonie. As for 300 yards with a .22, that is pushing it at my level, especially with a wind, I would think.

 

[barsik]

Reloading or buying quality factory ammo? It will be dependent on how much you’re going to shoot. The initial investment for quality reloading equipment plus all the supplies like powder,primers,bullets and case lube plus some way to clean cases and buying the cases will add up quickly. So if your going to just shoot 200-300 a year I’d buy factory and see what your gun likes. Sell the once fired brass and buy more for next year. Reloading lets you control all the variables when you can acquire the chosen components. Custom handloaded ammo will always be more accurate. You’ll never see a benchrest match shooter or really most competitive disciplines using factory ammo.

reloading means you have the capability of manufacturing your own ammo when a corrupt government decrees you can't buy any more ammo. never assume the government is not going to get into your lane.

 

[PPCLI-Jim]

Not an issue but looking for the best bang for the buck. Reading the posts above, there will be a learning curve to this if I get into it. Not an issue either as I am hands-on big time, ran a lab and can figure things out on my own.

I should have mentioned in my opening post, I only shoot paper.

Yes, a .223 or NATO 5.56 would do me fine as well. Will hit the 200 yards later this summer with the .22. At the moment, I want to see more consistency in my 100 yard targets, presently getting most of the 10 shots into a Toonie. As for 300 yards with a .22, that is pushing it at my level, especially with a wind, I would think.

Yes the .223 Rem will do that, but when your looking at those bullets at 80 grain you're maxed out. I met a world class shooter fairly close to his passing, even he was impressed by the numbers of the Grendel. I'm shooting MOA up to 600 m, which is range max out of a fairly budget rifle (RUGER AMERICAN CLASSIC with a 16" barrel) It uses about the same amount of powder too. I'll leave off now, have a great day!

 

[Every Shot Counts]

Reloading won't save you money at first but gives you more control to tune your cartridge/rifle. Cheers

Thanks, informative videos from your post #3 above for a novice on reloading. I watched them all.

The last video was well done with a good speaker. As for time, I find that type of work relaxing as I have one hell of a very complete shop and garage. Its like turning something on my lathe.

 

[Every Shot Counts]

A great caliber for new shooters and reloaders IMO, is the 6.5 Grendel.

I had to look that one up because I have never heard of it. Time for me to get a copy of "Cartridges of the World" at Ollie's the next time I am in NY state. I placed a link to the cartridge above.

 

[Longstud]

reloading means you have the capability of manufacturing your own ammo when a corrupt government decrees you can't buy any more ammo. never assume the government is not going to get into your lane.

Unlike you ,I was giving my opinion on what the OP was asking. Im fully aware of the advantages of reloading since Ive been doing it for 40 years. Try staying in the lane the threads aimed at. If your naive enough to think they wont ban the sale of everything required to load, well??

 

[jcpal]

Well I have fired a 7.62 x 54 in an old Mosin-Nagant. Nice and punchy with nothing at the end of the stock to absorb anything.

6.5 is not a powerful round regarding recoil 6.5 creedmoor is like 17ish pounds and. 6.5 prc is around 20-21 pounds of recoil about the same as a 30-06 maybe to some that’s a lot but that doesn’t bother me at all an my first rifle was a 308

 

[I Dont Care About You]

Well I have fired a 7.62 x 54 in an old Mosin-Nagant. Nice and punchy with nothing at the end of the stock to absorb anything.

Firing a couple of rounds of something is not the same as spending an afternoon shooting a rifle. I once thought I wanted a 338 Win Mag till I spent an afternoon with one and that rifle beat me blue. I literally went home with my shoulder and cheek turning blue from the pounding that rifle gave me. Obviously that wasn't fun and I didn't want to do that again. Moving from rimfire to centre fire and getting into long range will require a bunch of practice and you won't want to practice if the rifle beats the snot out of you with every trigger pull. I mean it's your money and your shoulder but I'm just saying.

223 is a great choice but if you are looking more for accuracy, consider a 222. It is quite similar to 223 but is def more accurate case. Some of the first benchrest rifles were chambered in 222.

A great caliber for new shooters and reloaders IMO, is the 6.5 Grendel. While it is a "newer" cartridge being under 20 years old, it's a round thats gaining popularity. It's a short action length, which has a lot of bonuses. While not as important as it was, it fits into an AR style magazine, it doesn't eat alot of powder per reload (24ish grain vs 40+For a .308.) It's bullet is inherently accurate, and when shot it doesn't give a pile of felt recoil (kickback)

The Grendel was specifically designed to run through a semi-auto and is thus a bit of an anachronism in a bolt gun. The Grendel also has a weird bolt head size and so can't be adapted to any rifle. There are much better choices that run the standard 308 sized bolt head and are in the same basic class as the Grendel.

The 6BR based cases are a much better choice than a Grendel. Those start with 6BR and go up to 6 Dasher and 6 GT. All those cases can also be had in 6.5 variants as well. I've had a 6BR for getting on 20 years now and it is by far the most fun rifle to shoot. Hardly any recoil and the thing is just effortlessly accurate. I use mine on gophers and it is amazing for that. Using the same gopher loads I have shot out to 700 yds. Sadly my rifle was built with a slow twist so it can't stabilize the heavy VLD bullets.

 

[dan belisle]

Firing a couple of rounds of something is not the same as spending an afternoon shooting a rifle. I once thought I wanted a 338 Win Mag till I spent an afternoon with one and that rifle beat me blue. I literally went home with my shoulder and cheek turning blue from the pounding that rifle gave me. Obviously that wasn't fun and I didn't want to do that again. Moving from rimfire to centre fire and getting into long range will require a bunch of practice and you won't want to practice if the rifle beats the snot out of you with every trigger pull. I mean it's your money and your shoulder but I'm just saying.

223 is a great choice but if you are looking more for accuracy, consider a 222. It is quite similar to 223 but is def more accurate case. Some of the first benchrest rifles were chambered in 222.



The Grendel was specifically designed to run through a semi-auto and is thus a bit of an anachronism in a bolt gun. The Grendel also has a weird bolt head size and so can't be adapted to any rifle. There are much better choices that run the standard 308 sized bolt head and are in the same basic class as the Grendel.

The 6BR based cases are a much better choice than a Grendel. Those start with 6BR and go up to 6 Dasher and 6 GT. All those cases can also be had in 6.5 variants as well. I've had a 6BR for getting on 20 years now and it is by far the most fun rifle to shoot. Hardly any recoil and the thing is just effortlessly accurate. I use mine on gophers and it is amazing for that. Using the same gopher loads I have shot out to 700 yds. Sadly my rifle was built with a slow twist so it can't stabilize the heavy VLD bullets.

That is good advice. - dan

 

[oneadam12]

Whatever you do go with, a long action in a 308 size bolt face is going to give you a wide variety of future options with the same setup. Sounds like you are going to shoot a lot of volume. A 223 is excellent and cheap to shoot, but stepping up from it is almost invariably a new rifle from the ground up.