reloading steel for duck/goose shells

sgtrock

sgtrock

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With fall fast approaching a thread for folks interested in reloading steel shot or for those allready doing steel reloading. exchange of loads and favorites,where to find components,results of using steel reloads ect.
lets hear from our duck/goose hunters,and possibly our trap and skeet friends who will have to use steel instead of lead in the near future.looking foreward to these upcoming post!
sgt rock
 
sgtrock said:
lets hear from our duck/goose hunters,and possibly our trap and skeet friends who will have to use steel instead of lead in the near future
Click to expand...
Are you trying to start this debate again? If you have information about clay target shooting having to use steel in the near future anywhere in Canada put it up. But don't go around making hair-brained statements if you can't.:rolleyes:
 
claybusters
your input is appreciated. Do you have any steel loads, infomation or experiences with stell reloading for hunting or trap/skeet that you would like to share? My hope was that this thread will help out new reloaders of steel with the knowledge of experienced of those allready reloading steel shot.
have a nice day!
sgt rock
 
Every one may be real busy right now as it is still summer. If very few are reloading what are your favorite steel factory loads and what experiences can you share with the rest of us waterfowlers?
sgt rock
 
I've tried patterning a few different loads, but got the best results from the cheap Win Experts (12ga, 3", BB, 1-1/8oz @1550fps I believe). For around $12.50 a box it's not worth the trouble for me to reload. I also got good results with Federal and Kent but not as good as the Win.
 
Don't believe a person can reload steel for less cost than factory loads....when you figure in components, new reloaders or at least steel shot adapter kits, etc. Even the wads are very Exp....Reloading bismuth is a diff. story....as you use the same wads, powders, etc. as lead......and factory bismuth shells are at least $25.00/10!!! Some of us must use bismuth to hunt waterfowl with antique shotguns!
 
You certainly can't reproduce the ballistics. After reviewing the Lyman 4th ed. I decided reloading steel is not a reasonable practice. You can't easily achieve 1500+ fps required for steel, and Lebaron retails flats (10boxes) for about $105 of Rem and Win 3" cheapies. They worked very well for me last year on ducks and geese so I'm not getting stressed over steel.
 
Thanks guys,keep the info coming.
I reloaded lead for many years and was sad when i could not use my favorite duck load any more. I started researching steel and have had time to check out the do's and don'ts of reloading steel.
Wads are only a little more than the lead wads,steel in 10 lb bags is a bit more but not as much as bisthmuth (works out to $1.00 a oz).
I still use my MEC reloader but only for the powder and resizing and priming.I set wad by hand and load shot by individual weight.
Speed kills with steel so some times less is more in steel reloading
Two loads I like

12 ga Fed gold medal
win 209
800x- 36 gr
Sami 1 was 2 3/4
#2 steel and larger 2 1/8 felt spacers under and one over load
3/4 oz
1850 fps

12 ga Fed gold medal
win 209
alliant STEEL powder-41 gr
Sami 1 12 ga 23/4 wad
1 1/8 felt spacers under load #2 and # 4 steel
7/8 oz
1725 fps
The felt spacers,fit in the shot cup (wad)
keep posting
sgt rock
 
Yes you can reload to match or even surpass the ballistics in factory fodder, Buy the RSI manual (yellow booklet) load up on Alliant Steel powder, and follow their recipies.
I drive 1-1/4oz of B's at 1475fps, and simply crush geese at ranges out to 50yds.(12ga.x3")
I also drive 1-1/8oz of 2's at 1475fps, I've taken more geese with this 2-3/4" load than I ever imagined, since it's supposed to be my duck load.(12ga.x2-3/4")
I did find that if I try to get full choke patterns out of any shot larger than B's I have to switch to my Improved Cylinder choke tube, but that's in my shotgun, so I highly suggest that everyone hoping to have a successful waterfowl season hit the pattern boards, cause steel is un predictable in how it performs in different shotguns.
 
lefty ####
Just got the latest RSI reloading book,lots of real nice loads in the 1 oz to 11/8 oz loads. I am doing some loads with T shot on top of 2 and 4 and am working on the patterning at the range.
at 1400 fps #4= 1.9 ft-lbs at 30 yards
#2= 4.7 ft-lbs
#T= 13.9 ft-lbs
I like duplex and triplex loads, but keep the speeds sane,drive loads of #4 as fast as patterning allows.Usually shoot all loads with modified out of a 20 inch bbl.
What 3" hulls are you reloading? I am recycling federal that I buy at ctc and then reload again.I also do 10 ga reloads with steel shot and they work very well.
thanks for the input and keep posting.
sgt rock
 
lefty ####
I use Federal in 23/4 also. Have you tried the loads with the 1/8 felt spacer under the load? It reduces the recoil quite a bit and speeds up the shot.
Started out using the load for Win 571 powder and it worked nicely,I am loking for 3" hulls for steel reloading and hope to find some soon.
What are you paying for steel shot (a 10 lb bag) where you live,and what do they want for Alliant steel powder,if you do not mind me asking.

sgt rock
 
Don't know, and can't remember, I bought my components in bulk a few years back, and still have enough to get me by for at least the next 5 years.
 
lefty ####
never hurts to stock up, as prices are always going up.good hunting this fall. We have a sept 1 goose start and i was just out scouting and saw at least 20+ geese.looking good.
sgt rock
 
For 3" shells I think RSI #88 is the best recipe (don't have it sitting in front of me) But it can push 470 grains or 1 & 1/16 oz load at 1730 fps. I have good luck patterning #3 shot. At that speed #3 shot meets and exceeds #4 lead shot for killing power, plus you get more pellets than most traditional lead loads.

RSI # 103 & 104 in FGM 2 3/4" also works well.

SS
 
savageshooter 565
GotThe loading book out nice load,are you using the 1/8 felt spacer?
Iam working on mostly 23/4 loads for now(I am trying to get a bunch of the proper 3" mag hulls to try other loads) and load #104 has possibilities.
Most of the cheaper factory steel loads I purchased to get 3" hulls for reloading BLEW out the crimps and hull lips so bad they were useless.
Any pointers or info you pas on to the thread are appreciated.I was a GD for 20+s and taught many people how to reload for shotgun,rifle and handgun. I cannot get over the number of posts I see from people who purchased reloading equipment and basically have very little training or help in their reloading efforts.Maybe those lurking around thread like this will pick up proper info or better yet,ask for help and not make the same mistakes we have all made as novice reloaders.They may learn from our experiences.We need more shooter and reloaders to carry on the shooting and hunting in future years
sgt rock
 
sgtrock said:
savageshooter 565

Any pointers or info you pas on to the thread are appreciated.sgt rock
Click to expand...

I can't pass on many pointers since I am still a noobie when it comes to shotshell reloading. I have reloaded and patterned all of the recipes I quoted, but have not hunted with them yet. I shoot Kent faststeel last year and wasn't overly impressed. We decided this year to try and 'roll our own'

Yes, I do use the 1/8" felt spacers as specified by RSI. Recipe #104 calls for the spacer under the shot, but i find I only get a good crimp when it is on top of the shot. They say felt on top of the shot increases pressures but when shooting a 2 3/4" load out of a 3" Magnum I am not worried. The RSI #88 does specify a felt on top of the shoot though, certainly pushing the pressures there. Funny thing is, if you read the BPI book, they say to never, ever put felt over the shot.

I very fine CGN by the name of rsquidjigger got me started on steel shot reloading. Perhaps he will post here, as he is very knowledgeable and has done extensive testing.

SS
 
savageshooter 565
have you ever found wads after patterning to check wad condition,set back,ect? I patterned some loads today and the load #6 and #104.
#104 patterned ok,but on first shot of #6 a large hole appeared in the tin-test backing of the patterning board. Found wad,and between 8 to 12 pellets wre still in the wad bottom. Test fired more with same hole and wad results.
Wads from #104 were in super condition and no sign of set back. I loaded the #6 loads last fall and am going to take remaining loads appart to determine if it is a age thing,or what.
will post pics and results as soon as wife(brains of our family) helps me get pics up.Pellets were copper BB(NO RUST) just pushed into base of wad and stayed there.
sgt rock
 
The stuck pellets is a common thing with the smaller pellet sizes.
Try adding buffer to your loads it helps by acting like a release agent in the bottom of the wad cup.
 
The wads we used (SAM1) looked very good after petterning. Perfect open petals, with the exception of #88 in B shot. The recipe says #2 shot is the max but B patterns well just a few pinholes in the side of the wad that have me a little concerned. I still think I will use B in this recipe as it would be an all around great goose killer.

SS
 
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