rem 700 police bolt hard to close?

Longshot said:
The shoulder of the casing is the issue here. Small base dies don't matter because it's not the head of the case that is the issue. The lee doesn't have enough adjustment to properly bump the shoulder back and to me that is a sign that the dies are probably an issue. I've never run into anything like this with better dies. Either that or (and I'm not trying to be a dink) the op is not using them correctly.
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Respectfully (and I'm not trying to be a dink here ;) ), have you missed, or are you ignoring the fact that he has the same problem with factory ammo and when he used an RCBS die?

OP - as has been mentioned before, check the rifle with head space gauges before you do anything else
 
RIFLEF said:
Be careful if you bump the shoulder too much you could end up with misfires.
RIFLEF
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Thanks for the advice.
Here is my brass on right, do you think I am pushing the shoulder too far? Would that misfire or something?
My plan was to bump the shoulder another half inch and then try some reloads.
securedownload2-1.jpg
 
Thanks for the advice.
Here is my brass on right, do you think I am pushing the shoulder too far? Would that misfire or something?
My plan was to bump the shoulder another half inch and then try some reloads.
Click to expand...

:sok2


That's....a joke...right?

That's, not really what your case looks like..........
 
I tried grinding the lee FL die mounted on my press drill, against a grinder disc to remove a few thousands(does a very clean job. angle is not critical in this application as I am just shortening the die anyway, not changing anything to fit.). Tested the die, it appears that the bolt now closes easier.
I will try grinding a bit more and then I will try again. I need to order that headspace micrometer and then I'll use it to check the once fired headspace of a slack round that was fired, against the headspace of my current rounds, and then to set die FL die for proper shoulder bump. will report.
 
Ok, first, thanks alot to maynard for sending me a go gauge to test my rifle.

Now, the results:

The bolt will close on the go gauge, but it requires a moderate effort, like closing on a case that was resized with the lee FL die.

So, the chamber is really on the tight side. Should the bolt close freely on the gauge, or is a moderate tension acceptable?

Since it's on the tight side, (but it works with factory ammo), should I just keep it that way and bump the shoulder a tad more using a headspace gauge, and then be done with it? Maybe I need the cases a few thousands smaller than factory, but if I only fire that brass, then it's fine I guess? I am not really into sending the rifle back for warranty work.

What would you do about it?

Thanks
 
The bolt should close freely on the go-guage. If you're against sending it in for warranty work, I would send it off to a competent smith to have the barrel set-back. Excellent opportunity to get rid of the excessively long throat at the same time. Guntech would be a good guy to discuss this with.

Kryogen said:
Ok, first, thanks alot to maynard for sending me a go gauge to test my rifle.

Now, the results:

The bolt will close on the go gauge, but it requires a moderate effort, like closing on a case that was resized with the lee FL die.

So, the chamber is really on the tight side. Should the bolt close freely on the gauge, or is a moderate tension acceptable?

Since it's on the tight side, (but it works with factory ammo), should I just keep it that way and bump the shoulder a tad more using a headspace gauge, and then be done with it? Maybe I need the cases a few thousands smaller than factory, but if I only fire that brass, then it's fine I guess? I am not really into sending the rifle back for warranty work.

What would you do about it?

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
The go gauge should be tested with the firing pin assembly removed. Cost wise having the barrel set back is the the same as having a new barrel installed. I am talking just the set back Vs installing a new barrel, not the price of a new barrel. Myself, I would bump the shoulder back on my brass and keep shooting until the barrel is shot out.
 
maynard said:
The go gauge should be tested with the firing pin assembly removed. Cost wise having the barrel set back is the the same as having a new barrel installed. I am talking just the set back Vs installing a new barrel, not the price of a new barrel. Myself, I would bump the shoulder back on my brass and keep shooting until the barrel is shot out.
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Also, it is best if the ejector is removed for best feel on the gauge. I, too, would just adjust the handloads to suit the rifle.
 
Fine, I am keeping the rifle this way, I don't really want to send it back. I will only be shooting reloads anyway.

Thanks, I will just bump the shoulder back enough to have the rounds chamber properly and that's going to be it.
 
Kryogen said:
Fine, I am keeping the rifle this way, I don't really want to send it back. I will only be shooting reloads anyway.

Thanks, I will just bump the shoulder back enough to have the rounds chamber properly and that's going to be it.
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Holy cow!!! 97 messages to come up with this solution?????!!!!! If you read message#2 ( The first response) There's what you came up with in message 97.
 
I haven't read this entire thread so I am not sure if this has been brought up, and I don't reload but I saw somewhere that overloads in powder weights can cause a bolt hard to open and close, and also with the remington I had that I got rid of - it had the same problem as well. So some things to think about - could be your reloadng and using slightly to much powder which can be seriously dangerous or your remington might just be defective (take it from someone who had one and moved on, there is a reason there is such an argument exists about whether savage or remington are better). Just my two cents.
 
Ok, as an update, I grinded the die alot more on a press drill against a grinder wheel, and I now removed enough of the base of the die to be able to bump the shoulder back enough with the lee FL die.
Tested a case, bolt closes like butter. Great.

Now, I am probably bumping too much now, so I will have to order one of those headspace gauges. Back order though.
749-006-317WS
Mic Cartridge Headspace Tool, 308 Winchester

So I cant really reload until I get one of those because I am probably bumping the shoulder back way too much now. I removed enough off the base of the die to not have to bother with that ever again.

I need to measure headspace so I don't create a dangerous case though, as I don't know exactly how much I have removed, maybe 1mm, which is 40 thousands. Those gauges have been BO for 2 weeks.
 
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