rem 742 problem and solution, opinions wanted

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dgdm

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Had my Remington model 742 in 30-06 out this weekend to sight in prior to moose. I had heard all of the complaints about this gun jamming but had never had a problem with mine, (plus I got a great deal on it at $300 with a nice scope and extra mag in great condition) anyways this year it started jamming on me and I tore it apart to see what was causing it. I determined that the cross bolt at the end of the rails was contacting the forestock and impeding the action from closing. I looked at the bolt (way up at the top of the rails) and noticed that each end was burred out a bit. Not sure how this happened but when I took off the forestock it slid up real easy, it was obviously the problem. So since moose season is two weeks away I took out a file and filed down the heads of the cross bolt at the top of the rails. Took off a fair bit of metal since it still seemed to bind some and rounded off the top of the rails and slimmed them down some till it slid real nice with hardly any contact with the inside edges of the forestock. Although I haven't fired it since I did this it seems to slide up into place real nice, hardly any resistance and will lock home even if the action is only pulled back part way.

Question is would anyone have any concerns with what I did or have similar experience. My only concern is if I took off too much metal and the cross bolt no longer is flared enough to hold the rails (it may slip out) I don't think that this will happen but it might be a good idea to try and center punch it or maybe even a bit weld to tack it in place and then refile,. any concerns with this plan??

I will fire it some more before moose but it seems to have fixed the problem so I am happy for now.

Thanks for your help.
Dave
 
It is funny how there are so many experts on this board who will endlessly debate obscure calibers and this versus that but when an actual question is posed that requires some knowledge all of the experts are silent.

I know from having done my searches that lots of people have stated experience with this gun, so can you offer any real world advise??

Haven't yet had a chance for a test fire, will definately get out this weekend.

Thanks,

dave
 
If the bolt you describe was long enough to bind the sides of the forend, that indicates there was an earlier problem that was poorly addressed or that your action bar assembly is coming apart. That crossbolt should be a rivet that is finished flush to the outside of the action bars.

I would suggest you have the assembly corrected or replace it.

There are many reasons for the gun to begin jamming and it's hard enough to diagnose with the gun in the shop let alone trying to do it by remote description. I haven't seen any jams where the action bar attachment is the culprit except when someone has tried to replace the inertia piece and didn't secure it well enough.
 
Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. The picture is a good idea I will try and get a good one.

That cross bolt was definately burred and stickin gout to far, it seems like it might have caught a bit and the more I shot the more it bured out, after a box of shells through it it was really bad. I basically just took don the cross bolt to the point were it was flush with the rails, then I tried on the forestock again, much better fit but still a little contact so I figured I would round off the sharp edges of the forestock ahead of the bolt and remove some material were it would not make it so that I wasn't going to remove all of the flare on the bolt that keeps it on.

I think I have likely solved the jamming problem but am a little worried that I may now have weekend the bolt holding the rails. do you think that a center punch to the either end of the bolt would solve anything. or is there any danger with a little tack weld for insurance??

thanks again.
 
dgdm said:
It is funny how there are so many experts on this board who will endlessly debate obscure calibers and this versus that but when an actual question is posed that requires some knowledge all of the experts are silent.

I know from having done my searches that lots of people have stated experience with this gun, so can you offer any real world advise??

Kinda rude for a new guy. I had one for one season and sold it. I advise you to do the same.
Click to expand...
 
dgdm said:
It is funny how there are so many experts on this board who will endlessly debate obscure calibers and this versus that but when an actual question is posed that requires some knowledge all of the experts are silent.
Click to expand...
One good reason for the silence is that many of the "experts" you speak of wouldn't own a Remington semi-auto rifle.



.
 
I know it was rude, I apologize, but I was desperate and since no replies after three days I thought I would try to stir the pot, it worked.

Actually I have been reading this board for years, I am by no means an expert so I haven't seen anything that I can reply to. I just try and educate myself a bit.

Thanks
Dave
 
Lots of reasons for the 742 to Jam... a Dirty/Rusty Chamber or a a Dirty/Rusty/Weak Recoil spring are two of the main problems with these guns.
Maintenance is a huge issue... keep em clean is an understatement.
Check the rails in the reciever for wear.... it can happen on well used rifles... as well as where the locking lugs engage... the bolts were harder steel than the recievers on some of the Remingtons.
:cool:
 
I had one of 742 years ago. The gun would cycle great at the range when the rifle was clean, dry. When The gun got a little dirty it would jam. The Rails in the receiver are known to wear with the 742, You can get away with some wear but when the rails get worn down at the forarm end, and the gun starts to jam? If your rails are worn to the point that you are worried of the bolt comming out of place, then? You may not want to hear this, but in my opinion the gun is now a parts gun or a throw away. It really depends on how worn the rail is. Sorry to tell you this but the 742 and the newer 7400 don't have the best reputation as being reliable, and the 742 rails are known to wear. The 7400 are better for wear but still are known to hiccup. Some hunters use them and like them , but I have had nothing but problems with the 742 and the 7400. I thought I would tell you this so you will not learn the hard way like I did. I hope this helps. Tikka
 
When 742's come into my local gunsmith he cleans them , replaces the action and recoil spring then opens the gas port a couple of thou . With worn rails and an aluminum reciever there isn't much you can do but filing the crossbolts may now result in out of battery fire , when it isn't jamming . Remington knows all about the problem and at one time , many years ago offered to replace the 742 reciever and innards with the newer 7400 but the offer was to original purchasers only . Since most folks got fed up with the jam-o-matics long before Remington made the offer and sold them to another unsuspecting sucker very few were ever returned to Remington . At best , it's now a parts gun . There is no such thing as a good deal on a 742 unless it's been kept immacuately clean since day one and shot very little and even then no knowledgeable rifleman would purchase one . A gunsmith may give you 100 bucks for parts but probably not as the only parts of any value is the barrel and stock and that depends upon condition .
 
best part about a 742 is as soon as you fix one problem. Another one arises.
Sorry, but anytime some one asks me about buying one, i shudder, and ask him how much he likes to fix things. Then every once and a while you get a good one that seems to last forever....
 
I've seen Remington 742's completely worn out in under 200 rounds - no joke! The bolt design was all wrong and it tended to wear against the receiver, causing the gun to fall out of spec VERY prematurely. most of these problems were corrected in the 740 and 7400 models. Quite frankly, the 742 was/is/forever will be the biggest Lemon Remington EVER produced. Not worth repairing.

In fact, at my local shop, the owner will take a Cooey Mod.60 on consignment, but not a 742. He buys them for $50 in working order (sorta) and then immediately scraps them for parts! Seriously! Bad design can't be fixed by filing and polishing.

If your 742 doesn't jam yet, you either don't shoot it much, or you should go buy a lottery ticket. I would NEVER own one. Period. In fact, I'd never own ANY Remington semi-auto whose model number started with "74x" again. And yes, I've had/used/thrown away 74x guns personally. Sometimes you need to be bitten to know you ought to stay away...

If you MUST have a Semi, go get a BLR or some other half-way decent semi and let Remington do something they actually do well for a change, like building modern rolling blocks and 700 series bolt guns.
 
dgdm said:
It is funny how there are so many experts on this board who will endlessly debate obscure calibers and this versus that but when an actual question is posed that requires some knowledge all of the experts are silent.

I know from having done my searches that lots of people have stated experience with this gun, so can you offer any real world advise??

Haven't yet had a chance for a test fire, will definately get out this weekend.

Thanks,

dave
Click to expand...

First off, this is a question for the "gunsmithing" forum. Secondly; this is NOT the way to get co-operation from this group - or any other.

Jeff/1911.
 
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