Remington Model 24 takedown/barrel adjustment question

Smitsauce

Smitsauce

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Hello,

I have been having a discussion with a member who bought a Remington Model 24 in .22lr from me. He seems to think that when you take the rifle down into the two main groups (barrel/handguard and reciever/buttstock), you should be able to adjust the barrel tightness adjustment collar without taking off the front handguard.

I know from disassembling this rifle and doing a complete teardown cleaning that this is impossible as the notch in the front handguard isn't long enough to allow the switch to disengage from the serrations on the adjustment collar. This, in my opinion and from what I have read on my google searches, this is correct. As far as I can see, once you adjust the collar to make the fit between the barrel and the reciever nice and snug, you don't really have to do it again and it would suck if you had to adjust it every time you take the gun down or if the collar could be turned when it is taken down. Can anybody else that has one of these or has had one chime in to let me know how this is supposed to work? I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Ian
 
I think you are pretty much correct. The Rem 24 is the same basic rifle design as the Browning Semi-Auto .22.

If the wood is in the way, and always has been, not gonna happen.

Two minutes with a screwdriver and a file should fix that, but perhaps it was intentional to prevent it from coming loose.

Should be a one-time operation to adjust it then good to go for another 75 years or so.

Cheers
Trev
 
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You are right. Although headspace can easily be changed in these and Browning semi-auto .22 rifles, once the correct headspace is set, why on earth would someone want to keep fiddling with it. It was designed to be set, then locked into place, but, being a take down rifle, Browning was wise enough to realize that there would be wear from people constantly taking them down and putting them back together. Therefore, he came up with the idea of having adjustable headspace.

When Brownings were plentiful and a lot more reasonably priced, you could find them at Gun Shows for much cheaper prices. Usually these were rifles that someone had taken COMPLETELY apart, including the headspace adjustment ring, and when the put the rifle back together, they either did not screw the ring in enough, creating excess headspace and thus the firing pin would not reach the rim, or, they screwed the adjustment ring in too much, which made the barrel protrude into the receiver too much, and the firing pin was blocked by the breech block.

A few minutes on the range, adjusting the headspace, and you ended up with a great rifle for about half of the used price, because the seller figured it was no good as it would not fire. This is not a new occurance, and many of the people on these forums today seem to take apart any rifle they buy, right down to the last screw, usually for cleaning as an excuse. They know very little about the particular rifle system that they just bought, have very little idea of how to disassemble it, and even less idea of how it goes back together. Then, we see the -My rifle will not fire - Posts appear and the problem is usually caused by the person themselves.
 
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