Removing copper?

schick

schick

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I have put a whole bunch of Copper Cutter through a bore that clearly has copper streaking, and it still looks like it has a fair bit left. I have even let it sit in the bore for a while.

Maybe I'm using the wrong product.

What's the best method of copper removal??
 

For many years I have used J.B Bore paste to remove the thickest of the copper fouling and then use Sweets. That has always worked well.

Recently at a gun show I was introduced to a new cleaner that does it all very easily. It is called Wipe-Out. Quite impressive with the ease at which it works. No brushing at all.
 
One thing you might want to keep in check with is whether accuracy has dropped off with the build up. If not, I wouldn't worry too much about cleaning all of the copper out. In most cases and in particular with a factory barrel, the copper will return in short order.

JB Bore cleaner works well on copper removal. Since I shoot moly, I find less clenaing is required and copper build up is not a big issue. Carbon deposits at the throught tend to be a bigger concern without cleaning the barrel.
 
My go to cleaner is Sweets 7.62 solvent I have used it for the last 15 years and it is as good today as the first day I tried it. I also use other products like Iosso and JB paste and pro-stot copper solvent. They all work well but I don't have time at the range to wait around for some foaming solvent to react with the copper so I use the Sweets, it's quick and really gets the copper out. On a pinch I will substitute Barnes CR-10 if I don't have Sweets.
bigbull
 
Almost forgot. Its a good idea to lightly lubricate the barrel after an extensive cleaning with a high ammonia based solvent. Tests seem to indicate, dry bores tend to show more rapid deterioration then lightly lubricated bores.
 
Almost forgot. Its a good idea to lightly lubricate the barrel after an extensive cleaning with a high ammonia based solvent. Tests seem to indicate, dry bores tend to show more rapid deterioration then lightly lubricated bores
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Very true, they also accumulate copper faster.

Brian
 
Sweets is pretty vigorous... you want to follow directions though and make sure you get all of it out of your chamber (and barrel) after use ... I wasn't as fastidious as I should have been with it once and left the chamber a little damp - split several necks on factory loads. For the absolute best way to get all the ammonia out of a barrel ... boiling water works great...AP..
 
Golly gee, I just plug the bore and pour household ammonia in, then let it soak for about half an hour. Stinks but takes out the copper. Rinse with hot water followed by a couple of clean patches. Then an oily patch to keep it from rusting.
Household ammonia is the ultimate copper solvent. Beware of spills. IT reeks and it will remove an oil finish very quickly.
 
I have to agree with Sweets 7.62, nothing better. Shooters Choice makes a great copper solvent aswell if you can't get Sweets, but as far as I am concerned, Sweets it #1, try it. Also make sure you have a really good jag and patch. I use the Dewey Parker Hale style jag with USMC type canvas patches.
 
10x said:
Golly gee, I just plug the bore and pour household ammonia in, then let it soak for about half an hour. Stinks but takes out the copper. Rinse with hot water followed by a couple of clean patches. Then an oily patch to keep it from rusting.
Household ammonia is the ultimate copper solvent. Beware of spills. IT reeks and it will remove an oil finish very quickly.
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This sure sounds like a cheap effective way of cleaning an old bore.

I wonder if Ammonia would affect blueing. :?:
 
I wonder if Ammonia would affect blueing
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It will take the oil off and if you have an oil finish on the wood, it will strip that off in seconds too. Kinda streaky though.
I used it to clean up oil soaked military martini stocks. rince, raise the dents, let dry for three days, then refinish with an oil finish using 40 steel wool between coats.
 
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