Removing Lube after Completing Reloading Suggestions?

wasa

wasa

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I currently use Lee lube on a pad when resizing rifle or bottle neck pistol (7.62x25 Tokarev). For the rifle rounds, I generally load in batches of 20 and after completing the reloading process I wipe off the lube with a clean rag. 20 rounds is not a biggie but my older hands (arthritis?) get cramps/pains while removing the lube manually.

Recently bought a Norinco NP762 in 7.62x25 Tokarev and during the current Ontario lockdown I am trying to reload 100 rounds a night. Again, using Lee lube on a pad. But my hands can't handle the removing of lube in batches of 100 with a clean rag.

Read through a bunch of older posts and some people (hi Ganderite!) put the reloaded cartridges in a tumbler (dry tumbler I assume) for an hour to remove the lube. Sounds like a great idea - I have both walnut and corn media. I will try this.

What do other people do to remove lube from reloaded cases? Note that I am using a turret press and would prefer not to resize cases, remove the lube, then complete the reloading process (but I guess this is an option).

Thanks
 
Pistol...
I use Hornady one shot lube (which I spray outdoors in the pot as it's allegedly very carcinogenic) .
Load in progressive, and don't wipe off after. The residue film is barely noticeable.


Rifle...
I use Dillon lanolin lube.
Either wipe off with a rag once resized, or throw in the tumbler before continuing the process.
 
I always tumble in stainless media after sizing... Sometimes I even do it before if the brass is really dirty.

I always deburr the inside of the necks after tumbling in case there's a bit of a rolled edge.

For inside neck deburr, I use a 1/4 shank cone shaped carbide burr... Never the intolerable junk sold by every single reloading gear company on earth.
 
The only handgun ammo I lube for resizing is 9mm, and that is just a quick spritz of Lyman spray lube in a 2L ice cream tub; a variation of the Ganderite method. Thank goodness for carbide dies.

For removing lube from rifle cases, I just toss them in the tumbler with corn cob media for an hour or so. Then I have to take another half hour or so to pick the media out of the flash holes.....
 
I don't lube pistol cases, even .357 Sig and x25. It's not necessary. I also use Hornady One Shot, it's absurd to say it's highly carcinogenic. The SDS shows nothing unusual and the California warning is present on plenty of harmless items.
 
I seldom load mass quantities of anything, unless I'm taking a few people to the range for familiarization/practice.

So, I just wipe the the rifle cases down with a paper towel.

That's if I'm only loading up a box or two.

If I'm loading up a lot of cartridges, more than 50, I just throw them all into a pot of boiling water, with some liquid dish soap and pour off the scum that rises to the top. I have a pot dedicated for this procedure. You don't want to pour it down the sink, especially if you have your own septic system.

I do the same thing with pistol cases.

I gave up on tumbling the cases a long time ago. Pain in the butt just to make the cases bright and shiny, which a good wash in boiling water with Lemshine detergent gets rid of any grit that might cause die damage.
 
The problem with dry tumbling the lube off is you contaminate the media so if you also want to use the tumbler for polishing the brass you're going to have to switch the media out. I also don't know how many cases you could tumble to remove the lube before the media gets contaminated with lube & no longer does the job. I also use the Lee lube and to remove it I just dump the lubed cases in a container, add lacquer thinner and agitate it. The lube dissolves almost immediately. Then I pour the used thinner back in the jug through a strainer & spread the washed cases on an old towel. Lacquer thinner is pretty volatile so after 10-15 minutes it has all evaporated, cases are dry, lube free & ready to load. Best to do it outside or in the garage with the door open to avoid breathing the vapour.
 
Use Unique case lube sparingly and if there is excess wipe it off with a cloth. Been using it for years and no messy pads, sticky builup or anything nasty. No need to tumble and you use so little, you can carry on with your progressive press with no issues.
 
B said:
I don't lube pistol cases, even .357 Sig and x25. It's not necessary. I also use Hornady One Shot, it's absurd to say it's highly carcinogenic. The SDS shows nothing unusual and the California warning is present on plenty of harmless items.
Click to expand...

I have never tried not lubing the 7.62x25 as my dies (Lee) are not carbide and the instructions indicate that I have to lube the cases or they could get stuck. Not lubing these goes against my intuition (steel dies and all) but maybe I'll try it if I'm feeling brave one day.
 
I use carbide dies for pistol so no lube required and RCBS case lube for bottle neck. After sizing I swish around in a jug of warm water and Lemishine or any detergent, rinse and then lay on a cookie sheet to dry. In the winter I stick the tray on the furnace duct which is nearby and continue when dry, usually tomorrow. It the cases are real dirty, pistol or rifle a half hour in a dry tumbler will remove any powder or range dirt. If you like them shiny then by all means tumble or wash to your hearts content but remember you are removing brass each time. Someday I will but a case in an appropriate citric acid solution (Lemishine) and check it a week later and see if I can measure any change in thickness.
 
wasa said:
I have never tried not lubing the 7.62x25 as my dies (Lee) are not carbide and the instructions indicate that I have to lube the cases or they could get stuck. Not lubing these goes against my intuition (steel dies and all) but maybe I'll try it if I'm feeling brave one day.
Click to expand...

Do not try it dry. Not worth the big PITA if it sticks.

Don't ask how I know this....
 
billbmcleod said:
If you like them shiny then by all means tumble or wash to your hearts content but remember you are removing brass each time. Someday I will but a case in an appropriate citric acid solution (Lemishine) and check it a week later and see if I can measure any change in thickness.
Click to expand...

I think you would have to be washing your brass for an unreasonable amount of time before it lost any discernable mass.

Couple years ago I wondered what effects of prolonged submersion in white vinegar had on 233 Remington.
I put a Winchester case in sealed glass bottle.
Checked it weekly for exactly 1 year.
After a week, there was no change in weight of the dried case -just obvious discoloration.
After about a month, it started to dissolve and loose mass.
After 6 months the case and vingar was black.
I thought I wrote it down somewhere, but I believe after about a year, it lost about 20% of its weight... and at the neck (and in places near the shoulder) I could actually dent the case with my thumbnail.
 
After 40 years of using all the messy lube stuff I now ( for 10 years) use the Best of All, "Imperial Sizing WAX", from Redding Reloading Equipment.
The thinnest of a coating is all that is needed. No messy lube to remove & it wipes off in a snap. I touch ( not a swipe) the wax with my finger tip
& that is all that is needed per rifle case. Just try it. Use the smallest amount for a good job.
 
Yesterday did a number of 243 Win cases (FC, R-P and Browning).
All were lubed, FL resized, chamfered the mount and Outside neck reamed.
2-3 hours in the tumbler and they were done and clean. Probably done within an hour.
As to the cost of media it would not be a concern of mine.
 
wasa said:
I have never tried not lubing the 7.62x25 as my dies (Lee) are not carbide and the instructions indicate that I have to lube the cases or they could get stuck. Not lubing these goes against my intuition (steel dies and all) but maybe I'll try it if I'm feeling brave one day.
Click to expand...

I'm using the same die set. I have yet to even feel any resistance so I am definitely not worried about a stuck case.
 
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