So when I started in on that rusty 94 I gave it a thorough cleaning with hoppes9 or G96 and then started with 0000 steel wool and oil and scrubbed as much surface rust off the receiver as possible, then to get rust out of the pitting on the receiver I used a small brass brush and oil to scrub anything I could out of the pitting.
I have a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder that I used on the barrel and mag tube, the putting on it was pretty bad so I started in on it with 120grit working my way progressively to 220gr sandpaper and oil. Pretty sure I used wd40 for most of the lube while sanding, to keep any flat surfaces on the receiver flat I wrapped sandpaper around a fine flat file or small block of wood. I clamped the barrel or receiver into a bench vise with padded jaws while sanding to keep it secure.
To sand the barrel and mag tube I cut long 1” wide strips of sandpaper and sanded around the barrel, not along the length. Like shining a shoe with a shine rag, the mag tube I put in my lathe between centers and wet sanded it while it spun. In all of this I worked from coarse to fine grit with oil till I hit a level of smoothness that worked, if I hadn’t had as much pitting to deal with I likely would’ve gone finer than 220gr for more shine.
Once I block/file sanded out as much of the pitting as possible I re detail cleaned the receiver/barrel and mag tube, I already had all the other internal bits and pieces, screws etc cleaned. I chucked all the screws in the lathe and sanded the screw heads smooth.
Wearing nitrile glove I then degreased everything multiple times with lacquer thinner followed by 99% isopropyl alcohol, once cleaned I started cold bluing with Birchwood Casey Super Blue. Heating up the parts with a heat gun prior to bluing really helps, I applied the bluing solution and let sit for 30-60sec, buffed it with 0000steel wool and washed it in hot water. Wipe dry and apply another coat, 6 coats hit the point where I didn’t see things get any darker. When bluing the receiver and barrel I worked in long strokes from one end to the other in one stroke, this kept the bluing smooth and even. Once I was don’t cold bluing everything I oiled everything well and left it to sit while I started in on the wood.
The original finish on the wood was flaking and I could scratch/scrape it off so I lightly used the brass wire wheel on my bench grinder to buzz of the old varnish. I don’t recommend doing this with a finish that isn’t failing or if you haven’t done things like this before. It takes some practice and finesse, you have to follow the grain and use light pressure. Fine sand paper by hand to smooth anything afterwards, I used warmed blo on the wood doing multiple coats till I was happy with how it soaked in. Two coats of hand buffed minwax paste wax to finish it. Then reassemble everything and try not to mar any screw heads or finished areas on the receiver lol.
I think that covers it for the most part, I did things in batches and slowly worked my way through it all. It’s a ton of work and hours if you want to keep it blued, initially I thought the pitting was worse and thought of sanding and then filling with automotive body filler, sanding smooth and having it ceracoated. Luckily I was able to remove most of the pitting, for the most part the pitting is a hidden by the bluing but up close it’s visible. It’s a shooter grade and not a pre 64 so I don’t think anyone will care. My friend was pretty happy with the finished product, he received it in the rusty condition and thought it was nothing more than a wall hanger. We shot it in the spring and it shoots quite well, luckily the old owner that stored it improperly had used grease to line the action and bore. There was next to no rust or pitting internally.
