Reproduction Ross Rifle Stocks, Fresh Off The Duplicator!

flying pig

CGN frequent flyer
Uber Super GunNutz
Rating - 100%
113   0   0
So earlier this spring I bought a turn-key Radarcarve Duplicator and a bunch of tools, jigs, parts etc from CGNer and Ross forum member Stoggie in hopes of reproducing military rifle stocks. I've spent the last few months gearing up, practicing, trying to find blanks and playing around with different ideas of how I wanted things to be. Its been a long road into this new hobby and a bit of a costly venture but this weekend it has finally paid off as I now have in my possession a completely newly stocked MkII 3* rifle all ready for the range.

Things were slow to get going, this duplicator is a real challenge to operate, and is almost a hobby on its own. There are a lot of things I'm going to need to change on it more or less to create safeguards to prevent operator error and to attempt to make it more accurate for inletting (the most time consuming part of the whole operation is getting the action and all systems fitted and operating properly and bedded). I bit off a big chunk in deciding to do a MkII rifle first. The stocks are so thin that there is considerable play in the duplicator and this makes inletting a huge burden. The fitting of the action and components on this rifle took nearly 70 hours to complete. In the end though I think it was a great success, with no major flaws and only a few small flaws to do with the inletting at the back of the action and in the area around the trigger guard/mag floor. All the bands fit perfectly and the rear handguard spring actually went together quite well and I was able to use the steel rivets to good effect. I've had major issues with the rivets on past attempts as they are extremely difficult to get the heads lined up well and the spring centered in the handguard as well as getting the rivets in tight enough to do their job.

I also recently completed a MkIII de sporterization using a fore end extension I made. I would like to share those photos as well.

I made a master stock for this MKII from a MkII 3* stock which had been sanded to death and which has over 1" of the butt cut off flat. I was able to use this stock by making my master about 1/4" oversize and hand shaping the entire rear section of the butt. I learned that the master should actually be as close to the finished product as possible through doing the finished stock. I'm going to hand fit the MkII action into the master stock in order to do this. The master was too far from finished and left way too much hand fitting behind. The same is true for the master handguard set I made. I left them too far oversized and they alone took most of a day to properly fit.

Here is the spliced stock I did:

008_zps4c14f7bd.jpg


007_zpsa3373b1f.jpg


006_zpsb19d4b10.jpg


photo212_zps98120480.jpg




And here is the newly stocked MkII:

010_zpsa50dbfd6.jpg


008_zps130756f7.jpg


007_zps80af1d9f.jpg


006_zps63ee3f41.jpg


005_zpsecbd2908.jpg


004_zps005c2169.jpg


003_zps18bf351e.jpg


002_zpsb0b12c03.jpg


001_zps0e7f830f.jpg


And the happy builder!

012_zpsb15abaf0.jpg


If you guys have any constructive criticism, hints, tips, tricks or questions on this please ask away. I'm still greener than grass when it comes to building stocks but hings are well on their way now. I'm also thinking hard about doing the Radocy rust blue I used on some of my other projects on this one seeing as its a non collector shooter grade rifle anyway, new stock may as well have new looking metal? Next I'm going to build a MkIII stock using Stoggie's master so I can see how much easier they will be to do. I know their handguards are a b*tch because they have four rivets over the MkII guards having 2 rivets. I've done two of those handguards now and neither turned out great. Its going to get better with practice though. This stock is much better than any of my previous attempts.

This stock also was the most plain cut out of my blank I have here. There is enough left to do two MkIII and one more MkII as well as a number of handguards and fore end extensions. The plan is to just keep doing this as a hobby and at my own pace, when I feel like it. So expect more to come, but I won't be taking on custom orders anytime soon as I feel it just takes the fun out of it to be obligated to do it. The ones which I want to sell will be put up in the EE however, so keep your eyes open guys if you are interested.

Steve, JP and the others, we need those nose caps now!

Thanks guys!

Brandon.
 
I think that is a great result considering it was your first attempt. Do you do the majority of your in-letting first? I find that doing that before shaping the stock you have less flex.I generally use a 1/4 "up cutting router bit for this and make my stylus out of a 1/4" bolt that has the edges just slightly radiused.
Also if you need a Ball nose or cylinder shaped stylus you can make your own by casting a block of plaster of paris and let it dry thoroughly .Securely mount the block in a drill press and slowly plunge your burr into the block making sure to vacuum out the cavity and clean your burr of plaster build-up.After you form the cavity chuck a 1/4 bolt into the chuck lower it into the cavity and fill your mold with 95/5 solder.This will give you a stylus that is generally a few thousands bigger than your burr. If you want it to be closer carefully sand the stylus down checking frequently with a calliper.
I don't know if you saw my post to your Question on where to get walnut stock but I will mention again that the Edmonton South-side Windsor plywood has a good selection of 8/4 instock.

Good luck in your new endeavour and have fun!! Dave.
 
Thanks for the compliments. I see I've got a lot to learn about bits and their applications. I looked up the up cutting bits and realized that my bits have no twist at all. They are more like milling bits. I have a couple deep small diameter up cutting bits in I think 1/8" but didn't realize they were available larger. I'll do some shopping.

That's a great idea for the stylus'. I'll try building a few before continuing on. Also thanks for the tip on the inletting. I've been forming the outside first because of the excess wood ontop but after watching a few videos on youtube I see most guys cut this down first and then the bottom followed by inletting from above and below and then onto the outside. This makes more sense from a rigidity standpoint.

I think I found a source that should be able to keep me going for blanks. They were great to deal with and priced fairly, plus the wood is much more beautiful than if was described as being.
 
I think the thing to do is borrow a bunch of stocks and use them to make masters to reproduce. Presently looking for one for a Swiss 1889 myself.

Grizz
 
Lee Valley tools have a good selection of up cutting spiral router bits and they also have Typhoon tungsten carbide carving burrs for the cheapest price I have found in Canada. I am in the process of building a duplicator right now that can handle 60" work pieces, but work always seems to get in the way. I find that if you rough cut your blank as close to the final dimension that you can ,inlet the action with a 1/4" spiral and then move on to rough out the butt and middle section with a ball nose burr gives the best results. I then move on to the barrel channel and then finish the front of the fore-stock. I haven't had a duplicator for quite a few years but I should have a few homemade styluses and a few bits that I will try to post a pic of.

 
Last edited:
Looks pretty amazing the work your doing, I do not own a Ross but think those that do should beat a path to your door after seeing that fine stock.
 
Ballsofice, I made a jig for my little harbour freight lathe so that both sections were drilled square to each other. I made a walnut dowel that needed to be tapped into both sections of stock and glued using an epoxy, but in the future I will be using something better. Then when it dried I drilled holes for two brass screws into the dowel one on each side of the splice and cut their heads off. Oh, you need to bed it before going this far. Then you finish up by blending the outside shape and making the bands fit. Unfortunately I don't have a MkIII band yet so I left the extension and band areas pretty fat so he could finish them to fit later.
 
thanks Brandon another project on my list of things to do poor MK II 3* ross I have still only half the rifle it once was... cough cough steve nosecaps cough cough
 
I did make a forgetful error on NBnagant's fore end, I fitted up the mid band and everything but assumed that because the nut for the screw never moved that things were ok. Lesson learned, always double check. Also his was the one the epoxy didn't live up to its expectations on. He had a tough time getting the mid band on (bit smaller than mine) and the glue wound up failing. I'm not happy with that at all. It should be as good as new. So I'm going to try to get some of that aircraft glue that Cpt. Laidler is always talking about over at the other site and see if it fares better. I tried breaking the join over my knee before it left here but should have tried harder. These should stand up to war after all!
 
Back
Top Bottom