rifle reloading on progressive?

curtmg

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Supposing I'm not chasing that last thousandth of an inch, and want to reload rifle rounds on a progressive. Should I trim before I start, and how do I determine how much to trim? I typically would trim after sizing, but if I do that, I'm not saving any time with the progressive. This is for 22-250 and 7.62x39, if it makes a difference, but probably not much, one's a bolt, one's an auto. Two kids, limitted time, has me wanting to minimize my bench time, I'm sure most of the young fathers around here understand. I have a new LNL AP press, and like a guy with a new hammer, I'm looking for nails that need some tapping.
 
You just have to make sure that your cases are not to long if you don't want to trim them. If they get to long you will get pressure spikes. Imo all I'd do on a progressive would be 223.
 
I figure if I trim them before, to just under the trim to length, when they grow a little during sizing they'll be right bang on. Basically I have my plan, I just started the thread, in case there's some important aspect I'm overlooking, or fatal flaw within. I set my dies to just barely touch the shoulder on the 22-250, and full length the 7.62x39. Neither one seems to grow excessively, however.
Using my current single stage press I'm able to hold .75" at 100 with the 22-250. The only thing I really use it for, is shooting clays to 200, so I could lose a lot of accuracy, and still be well within that parameter. Perhaps a comparative accuracy test is in order, single stage versus progressive, 5x5 shot groups of each, see how much I'm actually losing.
 
I separate the case preparation and loading steps with my Dillon RL 550:

-Size cases using either a single stage press or sizing die only in your progressive.
-Tumble to remove lube
-Inspect and trim as required
-Prime/charge/seat/crimp (if required) prepped cases. Station 1 has no die at this point and is used only for priming.

While obviously not as quick as pistol reloading, it is still substantially faster than loading with a single stage. As for accuracy, I can load .223 ammo that is good for about 0.6 MOA out of my CZ 527.

The Dillon press mounted sizer/trimmer has to be used alone, as it does not leave enough room on the toolhead for other dies. Cases would still require two passes around the press.

It might be a worthwhile experiment to find out how much brass grows on sizing so that you can trim short enough before sizing to keep the cases from exceeding the maximum OAL after being resized. That way, you might be able to do it all in one pass.
 
I personally trim my brass to the trim to length before. Yes they will probably grow a bit after sizing, but I haven't found that they grow from the trim to length to max length in one sizing operation.

Your brass probably won't be as even in length if you trim before resize, as they won't all grow the same in the resize die, but I do like you with nearly all my rifle rounds.
 
How often are you trimming? There is at least a .010 window for case length which gives me at least five firings with even the hottest loads. If your cases are stretching a lot during sizing consider lubing the inside of your necks a little to ease the stretching. I use carbide sizing buttons on my higher volume dies and get very little stretching.
 
Similar to tjhaile's operation, I size/decap in my SS press, (even pistol) then trim as necessary, (not pistol) and wet tumble before dumping brass, unlubricated, into the case feeder hopper of my L&L AP. This gives me clean primer pockets without the scraping and keeps my L&L AP free of case lube guck and the associated cleaning. I figure some of the time taken by breaking up the operation does come back through the avoidance of cleaning pockets and the press.

I've converted my Redding SS press to the L&L bushing system so all my sizing/depriming dies are "drop in". This allows me to quickly run through this operation with the small batches of whatever brass I have upon return from the range. Its done in a few minutes. Thus prepared, after a few trips to the range, I've accumulated enough to fill my tumbler and after a few tumblings, I've accumulated a batch worthy of a session on the AP. This routine robs me of the bragging rights enjoyed by the "I can load 1,000 an hour" crowd but nonetheless makes good efficient use of most of what I own and furthermore keeps press conversions to a minimum.

For occasional small batches of high cal rifle, I just stick to my SS press.
 
.204 loaded and neck sized on my 550B. Shoots very well. sub 1" groups at 100 yds all day long, shoots 1.29-1.42 inch groups at 250 yards. (25.2gr H322 .40gr VMX CCI SRP out of a savage LRPV HB)

Now, if I desire maximum accuracy, I hand trickle the powder, and that tightened things up nicely, but for all purpose ammo I use the standard powder drop and neck size etc on the 550
 
A lot of good advice, thanks. I think that sizing on the single stage, then trimming and tumbling will be the way to go. Unfortunately, I don't get to shoot as much as I'd like to. I think I'll still run a comparative test, with 5x5 round groups on the prog completely vs the single stage rounds, just for my own curiousity (at 200y, so the little differences can't hide so easily). I believe Handloader once did an article on Clint Smith from Thunder Ranch, using a progressive to load very accurate ammo for 3 different rifles. I'm no Clint Smith, but it lets me know, it can be done.

I usually use the Lyman Spray lube, very lightly, and have never had a stuck case (except when I forgot to change the shell holder, and the ram went down with no case in it :redface:), so I'm not worried about the little amount of lube still being on the case.

I'm so back and forth in my thinking here. I probably will be until I get some actual personal numbers to let me know what's what.
 
I have loaded about 500,000 308 match rounds on a Dillon. The case feeder is filled with primed, sized brass. All the press does is mouth flare, drop powder, seat and crimp the flare off.

I've thought about it, even picked up the stuff on several occasions, then always put it back and walked away. But you seem to have a vague idea about what you're talking about so perhaps I should bite the bullet and give it a whirl. Would make shooting a semi-auto 223 for varmints a lot less time demanding.
 
I load precision .308 ammo on a progressive press (XL-650).

I find it useful to load the ammo in two or three distinct passes through the system. The first pass is for sizing the brass (and optionally trimming, if required - but with careful setup of your sizing dies you can greatly reduce the frequency of trimming, to say once every five or more loadings).

After this pass the sized, unprimed brass goes into my vibratory cleaner (chiefly to remove lube, secondarily to clean and/or polish the brass).

I prime on my press - a decapping die clears the flash hole of any media bits and the press seats a primer.

I happen to use a bench-mounted powder measure to throw my charges. This is because I use stick powders (Varget, H4895) and I shoot out to 1000 yards.

I then have a loading tray full of charged cases with bullets sitting on top, I then run them through my press to seat them.

If I was loading ammo only for use out to 600 yards, or if it was only meant to be "plinking grade 1000y ammo", or if I used a ball powder that metered well, I would quite happily do everything after the cleaning in the second pass through the press:
- remove media from flash hole
- seat primer
- throw powder using the Dillon powder measure.
- seat bullet
 
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