Rifle Zero

rugbydave said:
I don't really understand why anyone would zero their (precision) rifle at anything other than 100yds? For carbines and hunting rifles, I get it, you can endlessly argue 100yd, 50/200, 35yd etc. But for precision rifles intended to shoot more than one fixed distance (as in F-Class where I assume one would check zero at the given range prior to the match) it really makes no sense to zero at anything other than 100yds/m. It's close enough to never be affected by changes in environment or weather and at 100yds/m the increments of most scopes (0.1mil and 1/4moa) are fine enough to make relatively fine adjustments to the zero. With a good muzzle velocity and ballistic calculator one can have very accurate dope out to a mile+ (whether you choose to just use the app/device or craft dope cards from the info the app/device gives you) and if snap engagements are a possibility, it's easy to dial on a max point blank range.
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Because for some of us, the range starts at 200. - dan
 
Alpheus said:
What rifle/cartridge? 4" of zero shift due to temp change is extremely excessive. Are you sure you never changed anything on the rifle?
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.22 Anschutz 64. Changed nothing. Went to dial my 44 clicks from 50Y to shoot 100Y, as that was the avg I needed when it was warm and was 4" low, when it was near zero degree. But it will shoot well once dialed in. Does it everytime it's cold. NS weather is odd in winter. Some days its plus 10, some days minus 2.. It works well at minus 10 and with wind.

When I had a precsion 308, It didn't fluxate, more than 1/4".
 
Precision rifle - 100m. Including the long range boomers.
For all the reasons RD mentioned.
Hunting rifles are also zeroed at 100 and doped out to 500m on paper. I can always pre-dial up for MPBR if I'm being lazy, but zero stop is set at 100.
 
I shoot 300-1000 yards with iron sights so I zero at 300 yards. Depending on light conditions and wind I may have to adjust up or down 1/2 minute from any known sight setting at any distance. That's why we have 2 sighters. These changes may also have to be made during a match to keep the group centered. Changing light conditions have the most effect. Light condition change with large cloud cover moving, where the target is dark in the shade of the cloud and the shooter is still in the bright sunlight. Or the shooter is under cloud cover and the target is in the bright sunlight. I have also shot with heavy head wind or tail wind conditions where I need to come up or down as much as 1 MOA for any distance over 300 yards.
 
Mystic Precision said:
Again, without specifics, you aren't going to get much further in info.... and generalisations, will just send you into more circles that lead nowhere.

If you have a properly set up CF system, your zero doesn't wander beyond what is caused by ambient conditions.... and I mean out to 1000yds on a competition target which is scored.

rimfire... a bit more complicated.

YMMV

Jerry

But maybe, you already have all the answers you need/want ????
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But in your previous post you said it can change?
 
Mystic Precision said:
Again, without specifics, you aren't going to get much further in info.... and generalisations, will just send you into more circles that lead nowhere.

If you have a properly set up CF system, your zero doesn't wander beyond what is caused by ambient conditions.... and I mean out to 1000yds on a competition target which is scored.

rimfire... a bit more complicated.

YMMV

Jerry

But maybe, you already have all the answers you need/want ????
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Not so much generalizing as bouncing thoughts off folks
 
Agree with Liberty

I Guess we have a lot of different answers for different uses... From target shooting to hunting (2 inches high at 100 yds!!)

When I take my precision rifles for a ride, I am planning to shoot 400, 500, 600. I KNOW my zero is pretty darn near a perfect bullseye. I will usually shoot only 1 or 3 bullets. JUST TO CONFIRM.

If i am 100% certain of my shooting position/technique/trigger pull, I will rely on only one shot. Sometimes high 1/4 inch. sometimes left 1/4 inch... I just ADD this (in MOA) difference to my turrets dialing..

I understand temperature and pressure and wind, but a 100yds zero should not change that much from one trip to another. everything else is external ballistics (From 0 to 100, i pretty much consider it internal ballistics, meaning even a good wind is neglectable...

that's my 2cents... :)
 
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What ya fishing for longbow. Not once did you mention the caliber and bullet weight. I guess we are suppose to guess what you are shooting.
The details mean a lot for the caliber.
 
Used to "zero" about 2 inches high at 100. But with modern ballistics programs and solutions it's no brainer to just zero at 100 and have a chart made up with the rifle. Of course verify before a hunting situation.
 
tigrr said:
What ya fishing for longbow. Not once did you mention the caliber and bullet weight. I guess we are suppose to guess what you are shooting.
The details mean a lot for the caliber.
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So in my defense it is posted in the Target and Precision Rifle section. Other than rimfire which has its own forum how does caliber and bullet weight make a difference on how you zero. Something I have never thought of. Application and sighting systems perhaps, but not BW.
 
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Longbow said:
So in my defense it is posted in the Target and Precision Rifle section. Other than rimfire which has its own forum how does caliber and bullet weight make a difference on how you zero. Something I have never thought of. Application and sighting systems perhaps, but not BW.
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The precise calculation is Bw (bullet weight, grains) x pi / 5 to get your optimized zeroing distance.
 
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