Robarms XCR FAQ post

xdmer said:
Oh they're the same. The pin at the back of the carrier is just in there with an oring, mine has always popped out easy ... good to have a spare on hand because you're SOL if you loose it in field cleaning.

Just pick at the pin head with your finger nail from the left side. It will come out easy. Or push from the opposite side with a small object, / pin / punch. It's only a very very light friction fit due to the oring, even slapping it against your hand it can fall out the left side. However, if you're referring to the firing pin tail, don't remove it, there is no need and it's in there with a roll pin.

Firing Pin Tail = Red
Firing Pin Retaining Pin = Black

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Ya i was referring to the firing retaining pin- the black.

thanks !
 
Here's a question: does the hole for the barrel retaining bolt have a Heli-coil in it from the factory? I just picked up a used keymod in 7.62x39 and I'm wondering if it came from the factory that way, or if one of the previous owners damaged the threads and then had it repaired.
 
Steveo830 said:
Here's a question: does the hole for the barrel retaining bolt have a Heli-coil in it from the factory? I just picked up a used keymod in 7.62x39 and I'm wondering if it came from the factory that way, or if one of the previous owners damaged the threads and then had it repaired.
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no, my guess is the last owner broke the head of the bolts and when they successfully removed what was left they ended up to damage the thread so to fix it they throw a heli coil in the hole
 
Quote Originally Posted by Steveo830 View Post

Here's a question: does the hole for the barrel retaining bolt have a Heli-coil in it from the factory? I just picked up a used keymod in 7.62x39 and I'm wondering if it came from the factory that way, or if one of the previous owners damaged the threads and then had it repaired.

no, my guess is the last owner broke the head of the bolts and when they successfully removed what was left they ended up to damage the thread so to fix it they throw a heli coil in the hole
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Ok I just did some more research. The Heli-coil in the barrel bolt hole IS factory. They all have it. Makes sense because torqueing that bolt to 250 inch/lbs would almost surely play havoc on aluminum threads.
 
yo men, how off zero would you rifle get from removing the barrel to clean it? Went to the range today and was not even on paper at 50 yards or 25 yards, until I made some serious click adjustments. 6 clicks down and 6 clicks to the right 1/4 moa each click

now keep in mind it could also be my scope i did torque it down improperly (too hard) thinking the internals are damaged and need to send it back to vortex for a replacement. Really not sure.
 
I changed from .223 to 6.8 SPC and back to .223 with only about an inch POI shift from the previous .223 POI.
The odd thing was it used to shoot the cheap AE red box JHP really well but not anymore. Switched to Hornady 55 vmax and my groups at 100m are 1 5/8".

I use a torque wrench on the barrel bolt/screw.
 
skatemike77 said:
yo men, how off zero would you rifle get from removing the barrel to clean it? Went to the range today and was not even on paper at 50 yards or 25 yards, until I made some serious click adjustments. 6 clicks down and 6 clicks to the right 1/4 moa each click

now keep in mind it could also be my scope i did torque it down improperly (too hard) thinking the internals are damaged and need to send it back to vortex for a replacement. Really not sure.
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pretty sure that if you dont torque the bolts that hold the barrel at the same spec than before it will affect the zero
 
Steveo830 said:
Ok I just did some more research. The Heli-coil in the barrel bolt hole IS factory. They all have it. Makes sense because torqueing that bolt to 250 inch/lbs would almost surely play havoc on aluminum threads.
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Yep, they all have a heli coil. I snapped my bolt from one extra turn past 250. It was a bitach to fix. I ended up with a heli coil type insert ( can't remember the exact term for it) and a bigger bolt.
 
skatemike77 said:
well jeez. Why would the manual say 200 inch pounds then?

Either way, the basis of my question was zeroing. Lets say it requires 250 inch pounds, does that mean my zero was so far off because I only torqued the barrel to 200 inch pounds?
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If it was 250 when you started and you removed barrel and then torqued to 200 , then you probably would change your zero.
 
have any of u guys taken off the flash suppressor with a wrench before? might need to do it to laser boresight my baby for the new scope i got.
 
RA, the manufacturer, says 200 in-lbf.
Wolverine, the distributor, calls for 250.

250 in-lbf is crazy high for a 5/16 (any pitch) bolt. Every time you torque to 250, you're stretching the bolt. You might get away with it if you're using a new bolt every time, otherwise you're on borrowed time.

Side note, there's no place for thread lock on a heli-coil.

I use 18 ft-lbf or 220 in-lbf as my own spec.

/

@ skatemike, I've removed the brake off my x39 barrel with just a wrench. I was surprised how easy it came off.
 
9x19p said:
RA, the manufacturer, says 200 in-lbf.
Wolverine, the distributor, calls for 250.

250 in-lbf is crazy high for a 5/16 (any pitch) bolt. Every time you torque to 250, you're stretching the bolt. You might get away with it if you're using a new bolt every time, otherwise you're on borrowed time.

Side note, there's no place for thread lock on a heli-coil.

I use 18 ft-lbf or 220 in-lbf as my own spec.

/

@ skatemike, I've removed the brake off my x39 barrel with just a wrench. I was surprised how easy it came off.
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thanks for the reply
 
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