Robarms XCR FAQ post

250 is fine. I have kept mine to 250 and it's still fairly easy to remove. For the flash hider I run an ARES effin'a comp, it works well directionally and doesn't pull the gun forward
 
wondering if anyone has had this problem. went to the range after disassembling the gun and cleaning (including removing barrel) and had 2 failure to feeds. 1) round is stripped from mag, bolt wont seat all the way, pushed the bullet into the shell. bolt stuck 3/4 forward, had to reef it out. 2) strip the round from the mag, bolt closed 3/4 again. had to use a 2x4 to smash the charging handle out of battery. gun fired fine and functioned fine other then those 2 rounds. firing from a bag on a bench.
 
wondering if anyone has had this problem. went to the range after disassembling the gun and cleaning (including removing barrel) and had 2 failure to feeds. 1) round is stripped from mag, bolt wont seat all the way, pushed the bullet into the shell. bolt stuck 3/4 forward, had to reef it out. 2) strip the round from the mag, bolt closed 3/4 again. had to use a 2x4 to smash the charging handle out of battery. gun fired fine and functioned fine other then those 2 rounds. firing from a bag on a bench.

You could also refer yourself to one of my old posts: ;)

Finally! I'm happy to see that i'm not the only one to have this screw/brass deflector problem...

When I first received my rifle, it was jamming a lot, for an unknown reason... Specially after a few dozen rounds (when heat expends metal parts)...
After cleaning and lubing everything up, I still had that kind of "bolt-back" jam...

I took a snake-camera to get into the chamber and watch the action go...
I found out that the screw from the brass deflector was protruding into the chamber and hitting the extractor of the bolt, everytime I make the rifle cycle...

Took the brass deflector's screw out, like "dont_tread_on_me" said before, counted the number of threads that was getting into the chamber.
Took the Dremel and a pair of pryers, took me around 2 minutes to get 3 threads off the screw...

Reassembled the damn thing, cycled a few times and it was working great... Went to the range later and it was working flawlessly, shooting rounds after rounds after rounds...

I'm wondering why they put a screw so long... Did they forget to drop a washer in or does the brass deflectors were made too thin?

That "thread" should be a sticky, because I think a lot of XCR owners got this issue...

http://xcrforum.com/index.php/topic,6210.0.html

For those interested:

IMPORTANT BREAK IN PROCEDURE!!!

The XCR is one of the most reliable rifles money can buy.
However, they must be "broken in" properly before they are reliable. The break in period is approximately 300 rounds.
During this period parts slightly wear against each other until they glide smoothly.

If you use weak ammunition such as Wolf during the break in period, you may experience malfunctions which are caused by the bolt not moving back far enough when the rifle is fired. Here's a list of these malfunction:

1) The bolt does not go back far enough to pick up the next round and forces the round forward by the middle of the cartridge case. (We refer to this as a "short feed"). Many think this is a failure to feed; it is not.
2) An empty case gets caught between bolt and receiver such that the empty case is sticking out of the ejection port. (This is referred to as a "stove pipe".)
3) An empty case is not ejected and an empty case is shoved back inside the chamber. (Note: sometimes the empty case has swollen and it's hard to pull back on the charging handle.) And
4) An empty case and an unfired case get stuck in the action.

These malfunctions are all caused by the same thing - The bolt carrier and bolt are not traveling far enough to the rear of the rifle when fired. All these malfunctions will go away as soon as the rifle is broken in.

Suggestions for Easy Break In

1) Make sure the rifle is well lubricated during the break in period. (You should not need much lube after the break in.)
2) Use hot ammo such as "American Eagle" during the break in period. (Note: Weak ammo such as "Wolf" and other light ammo will cause you grief during the break in period.) And
3) Leave the gas setting to setting 4 (the highest setting).
4) We love to talk to our customers. However, it's best to follow these procedures before calling.


Reason for the Break In

The more the XCR is shot the smoother it gets. The XCR's parts are made on modern CNC equipment and have nice surface finishes. However, some parts simply need to wear together to work their best. We could have designed the XCR so that it used additional force to cycle the system from the beginning so that no break in would have been necessary. Had we done so, there would have been little difference between the highest and lowest gas settings and the rifle would always cycle harder that it would need to once it was broken in.

After the Break In

After the break in, the rifle will function reliably with hot ammo such as "American Eagle" on position 2 (this may vary from rifle to rifle). Weak ammo such as "Wolf" will function reliably on setting 4 (the highest setting).

If you are still having problems, check the following: (Follow safety precautions in the "Operator's Manual" and make sure the rifle is not loaded.)

1) After the firearm cools, grab the gas block and make sure it is tight and not moving. Tighten it if moving.
2) Remove the upper receiver from the lower receiver. Check the ejector and make sure it is tight. Then with the upper receiver upside down, take a hold of the recoil spring guide and slide the bolt carrier assembly back and forth in the receiver. Make sure it slides freely and does not bind against the ejector.

The gas valve should be set so that the empty cases are ejected approximately 8' to 15' from the rifle. If some empty cases are ejecting only a few feet, you're gas setting is not high enough and your sure to experience a malfunction.

We thank you for purchasing our product. Should you have any problem or question whatsoever, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Rifle Cycled Fine for 250 Rounds then Quit Cycling?

We've had this happen a few times. The first thing to check is your gas block.
Once in a while the gas block comes loose and moves forward. If it moves forward, it will not let the gas go where it should and it won't cycle.

1) Just undo the allen head screw.
2) Move the gas block into place.
3) Re-tighten the allen head screw.

There's always a little gas which leaks around the gas block. This gas actually locks up the allen head screw so no Loctite is needed. This usually happens if that screw was not tight enough to start with. Once it's tightened up right, it will never come loose on its own.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5404024&postcount=295
 
Yup same ammo. I wouldn't really care if it was just a regular ftf but the bolt requiring a 2x4 to get free has me worried

It happened to me too, still don't have an answer.

Measure the upper, make sure it hasn't stretched. Remove and re-torque the gas block and barrel. Make sure the barrel stays true or centered as you're tightening. Check the bolt for damage, where the lobe rides through the carrier. Check the ejector isn't bent or scraped.

Mine was around the same milage, 3,000ish rounds. That was over 12,000 rounds ago and hasn't happened since, but I'll be sure and let you know if anything further develops.;)
 
Call wolverine, I had this problem. There was a batch of bolts that were out of spec, they replaced the bolt for free and the problem was permanently solved.
 
A bolt is threaded by nature... :)

By big one, do you mean the one under the upper that holds the barrel in place?

I'm thinking no.
First, bolts are threaded by man, not nature. ;)
Second, he's talking about the bolt, the piece that holds the firing pin. It rides in a carrier, called a bolt carrier. That bolt :).
 
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