Robarms XCR FAQ post
- Thread starter SIGGER
- Start date
And on the XCR-M you need to make sure the gas block nut (like on the M14 / M305) is tight, it will back off, finger loose.
the competition models with the long hand-guard have 1-7 settings
Yes where the stock mates to the frame there are 3 bolt/holes, IIRC, and you raise the complete stock upwards and rebolt. Seems it is allen heads but I could be wrong.
Oops I just saw your second posting. Good deal that it worked for you!
Me, bolt closed and dry fired.
Me 2.
sup fellas. Just got back from the range- only the second time out with my XCR-L.
Today I noticed my brass was getting dented right near the top of the casing upon ejection. I was shooting federal american eagle 55grain .223 and my gas setting was still set at 6 (my competition length xcr is S-7 settings) It was ejectiong around the 2-3 ocklock area.
What could cause denting of the brass? Perhaps my gas setting is far too high, gonna need to tone it down to 4 or 3. Is it possible I should be shooting 5.56 -the barrel is stamped 5.56 so maybe there is a pressure issue.
Today I noticed my brass was getting dented right near the top of the casing upon ejection. I was shooting federal american eagle 55grain .223 and my gas setting was still set at 6 (my competition length xcr is S-7 settings) It was ejectiong around the 2-3 ocklock area.
What could cause denting of the brass? Perhaps my gas setting is far too high, gonna need to tone it down to 4 or 3. Is it possible I should be shooting 5.56 -the barrel is stamped 5.56 so maybe there is a pressure issue.
i would recommend that you lower the gas setting , wolverine had say many time that you need to run the xcr-l in the lowest setting possible because right now you are pretty much at the max witch can cause you some breaking in the long term
how often do you guys remove that pin in the bolt to clean out the firing pin? Or after how many rounds I should say? I cant get that damn thing out by hand- looks like I will need a punch of some sort and a small hammer
never need any tool for that but mine is a x39
i tend to throw the hole bolt in the boilling water when cleaning the cheap corrosive ammo
I just wipe mine down after use, (has a layer of fluid film) ... I've never had an issue with my xcr's, the retaining pin is very , very easy to come out ... I wonder if there are bolt differences.
there might be. the bolt in the picture of my manual looks a fair bit different from mine.
my bolt pretty much looks exactly like this one.
http://s340.photobucket.com/user/Mrwolverine/media/XCR_Bolt_zps52deeb36.jpg.html
how the hell do you get the pin out?
http://s340.photobucket.com/user/Mrwolverine/media/XCR_Bolt_zps52deeb36.jpg.html
how the hell do you get the pin out?
Oh they're the same. The pin at the back of the carrier is just in there with an oring, mine has always popped out easy ... good to have a spare on hand because you're SOL if you loose it in field cleaning.
Just pick at the pin head with your finger nail from the left side. It will come out easy. Or push from the opposite side with a small object, / pin / punch. It's only a very very light friction fit due to the oring, even slapping it against your hand it can fall out the left side. However, if you're referring to the firing pin tail, don't remove it, there is no need and it's in there with a roll pin.
Firing Pin Tail = Red
Firing Pin Retaining Pin = Black
Just pick at the pin head with your finger nail from the left side. It will come out easy. Or push from the opposite side with a small object, / pin / punch. It's only a very very light friction fit due to the oring, even slapping it against your hand it can fall out the left side. However, if you're referring to the firing pin tail, don't remove it, there is no need and it's in there with a roll pin.
Firing Pin Tail = Red
Firing Pin Retaining Pin = Black
