Robarms XCR FAQ post

I have 10 of the 5 round C-Products mags they all work great once I shortened the spring a bit so not only the 5 rounds fit perfectly but so I can also easily insert them into the receiver with the bolt closed.

I'm thinking I will order a few of the pinned to five 20 round mags as well.

CC
 
Ambidextrous mag release

I'm thinking I will order a few of the pinned to five 20 round mags as well.

CC

Hurry up, according to Questar we're probably coming to the end of C-Products.

The XCR is really lefty friendly but I'd like to fit an ambidextrous mag release on it. If I'm right the options are KAC, Troy and Norgon. Anyone fitted one on the XCR?
 
Will do you thank you.


Thad, you may want to turn down the gas setting on your gun as you have completed the 200 round break in period for your gun. I believe that you can damage your buffer by running your gas setting too high.

On page 16 of the manual it states: "The "4" setting is the highest setting. It allows the largest amount of gas to impinge upon the Piston. It should be used when breaking in the Rifle. It may take as many as 200 rounds for the Rifle to be broken in. It is suggested that a higher pressure ammo, such as American Eagle, be used during this period. After the break in, the Rifle should cycle most brands of ammunition reliably."

Regards,

Chizzy
 
Oil or Grease ?

Quick question, guys. Are things like the bolt that slides back and forth supposed to be greased at the moveable parts or just oil?

cheers

Teac
 
30 rounds in and the gun completely jammed up, bolt wouldn't move at all. stripped it, and found the issue was just the extractor moved a little and wouldn't allow the bolt carrier to slide properly. guess it wasn't fully tightened, and the 30 rounds shook it a little so it wouldn't line up. Literally a 10 second fix, [theres a vid on youtube that shows it exactly] and it's cycling great again. (quite the relief as I was worried I'd somehow f$%ked up lubing it)

just a tip to anyone getting a new one, double check everything both inside and out is tightened really well before taking it out the first time. It's very disappointing to go out and have your day end so abruptly.
 
30 rounds in and the gun completely jammed up, bolt wouldn't move at all. stripped it, and found the issue was just the extractor moved a little and wouldn't allow the bolt carrier to slide properly. guess it wasn't fully tightened, and the 30 rounds shook it a little so it wouldn't line up. Literally a 10 second fix, [theres a vid on youtube that shows it exactly] and it's cycling great again. (quite the relief as I was worried I'd somehow f$%ked up lubing it)

just a tip to anyone getting a new one, double check everything both inside and out is tightened really well before taking it out the first time. It's very disappointing to go out and have your day end so abruptly.


You could also refer yourself to these posts: ;)

Finally! I'm happy to see that i'm not the only one to have this screw/brass deflector problem...

When I first received my rifle, it was jamming a lot, for an unknown reason... Specially after a few dozen rounds (when heat expends metal parts)...
After cleaning and lubing everything up, I still had that kind of "bolt-back" jam...

I took a snake-camera to get into the chamber and watch the action go...
I found out that the screw from the brass deflector was protruding into the chamber and hitting the extractor of the bolt, everytime I make the rifle cycle...

Took the brass deflector's screw out, like "dont_tread_on_me" said before, counted the number of threads that was getting into the chamber.
Took the Dremel and a pair of pryers, took me around 2 minutes to get 3 threads off the screw...

Reassembled the damn thing, cycled a few times and it was working great... Went to the range later and it was working flawlessly, shooting rounds after rounds after rounds...

I'm wondering why they put a screw so long... Did they forget to drop a washer in or does the brass deflectors were made too thin?

That "thread" should be a sticky, because I think a lot of XCR owners got this issue...

http://xcrforum.com/index.php/topic,6210.0.html

For those interested:

IMPORTANT BREAK IN PROCEDURE!!!

The XCR is one of the most reliable rifles money can buy.
However, they must be "broken in" properly before they are reliable. The break in period is approximately 300 rounds.
During this period parts slightly wear against each other until they glide smoothly.

If you use weak ammunition such as Wolf during the break in period, you may experience malfunctions which are caused by the bolt not moving back far enough when the rifle is fired. Here's a list of these malfunction:

1) The bolt does not go back far enough to pick up the next round and forces the round forward by the middle of the cartridge case. (We refer to this as a "short feed"). Many think this is a failure to feed; it is not.
2) An empty case gets caught between bolt and receiver such that the empty case is sticking out of the ejection port. (This is referred to as a "stove pipe".)
3) An empty case is not ejected and an empty case is shoved back inside the chamber. (Note: sometimes the empty case has swollen and it's hard to pull back on the charging handle.) And
4) An empty case and an unfired case get stuck in the action.

These malfunctions are all caused by the same thing - The bolt carrier and bolt are not traveling far enough to the rear of the rifle when fired. All these malfunctions will go away as soon as the rifle is broken in.

Suggestions for Easy Break In

1) Make sure the rifle is well lubricated during the break in period. (You should not need much lube after the break in.)
2) Use hot ammo such as "American Eagle" during the break in period. (Note: Weak ammo such as "Wolf" and other light ammo will cause you grief during the break in period.) And
3) Leave the gas setting to setting 4 (the highest setting).
4) We love to talk to our customers. However, it's best to follow these procedures before calling.


Reason for the Break In

The more the XCR is shot the smoother it gets. The XCR's parts are made on modern CNC equipment and have nice surface finishes. However, some parts simply need to wear together to work their best. We could have designed the XCR so that it used additional force to cycle the system from the beginning so that no break in would have been necessary. Had we done so, there would have been little difference between the highest and lowest gas settings and the rifle would always cycle harder that it would need to once it was broken in.

After the Break In

After the break in, the rifle will function reliably with hot ammo such as "American Eagle" on position 2 (this may vary from rifle to rifle). Weak ammo such as "Wolf" will function reliably on setting 4 (the highest setting).

If you are still having problems, check the following: (Follow safety precautions in the "Operator's Manual" and make sure the rifle is not loaded.)

1) After the firearm cools, grab the gas block and make sure it is tight and not moving. Tighten it if moving.
2) Remove the upper receiver from the lower receiver. Check the ejector and make sure it is tight. Then with the upper receiver upside down, take a hold of the recoil spring guide and slide the bolt carrier assembly back and forth in the receiver. Make sure it slides freely and does not bind against the ejector.

The gas valve should be set so that the empty cases are ejected approximately 8' to 15' from the rifle. If some empty cases are ejecting only a few feet, you're gas setting is not high enough and your sure to experience a malfunction.

We thank you for purchasing our product. Should you have any problem or question whatsoever, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Rifle Cycled Fine for 250 Rounds then Quit Cycling?

We've had this happen a few times. The first thing to check is your gas block.
Once in a while the gas block comes loose and moves forward. If it moves forward, it will not let the gas go where it should and it won't cycle.

1) Just undo the allen head screw.
2) Move the gas block into place.
3) Re-tighten the allen head screw.

There's always a little gas which leaks around the gas block. This gas actually locks up the allen head screw so no Loctite is needed. This usually happens if that screw was not tight enough to start with. Once it's tightened up right, it will never come loose on its own.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5404024&postcount=295
 
Wolverine lists two NEA stock adapters on their site, a "low line" and a "high line". Does anybody actually have pictures of these two adapters mounted on an XCR?

I am trying to decide between one of the two mentioned above or the Dlask offering.

Also, (yes I am asking a lot), could anyone provide feedback on Magpul MOE and/or MIAD grip fit on the XCR? Photos would be a bonus as I am trying to decide on a grip as well, but I want to ensure proper fit.

Thanks.
 
I have the Dlask adapter with the optional sling plate.. I love this set up. No cheek riser needed with irons or a scope for me.

DSC00598.jpg
 
I am sure someone will probably quote a previous post that may or may not be 30 odd pages back to answer this question but I just don't have the patience to read all the way back... =-) However I am looking to acquire a NEA adapter like the one pictured above. I already have the DLASK but am not a fan of the look. Tried contacting NEA through their web site with negative results. any help would be appreciated.

And I will not post in here that I would be interested in trading my DLASK for a NEA adapter if anyone was interested because I know that belongs in the EE forums.

Thanks gents and ladies...
 
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