Danimal247
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Toronto, ON
reload....
thats all i have to say.
I have a pws triad on the way.
I will do up a flash hider removal tutorial for you guys.
I'd like to see that too...although the factory 7.62 brake looks ok
Robarms XCR FAQ post
- Thread starter SIGGER
- Start date
I'd like to see that too...although the factory 7.62 brake looks ok
Hunter1970
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- in the shadows behind you
I just finished with my flash hider up-grade on all three of my uppers. The Effin A on the 223, a Triad on the X39, and a PWS FSC on the 6.8. I can't wait to get to the range next weekend to try them out. I found the best way for me to get the pin weld out was to dremel around the existing weld, and create sort of a "post". When you have taken a bit of metal down, gently apply pressure to the hider with a rag wrapped wrench. If you have taken enough metal away, you will see the pin seperate from the flash hider. Then I took a set of needle nose plyers and removed the pin. I didn't weigh the factory hiders, but the PWS sure gives the impression of almost lightening up the front.
Hunter1970
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- in the shadows behind you
Here a a few quick pics:
Hey guys, I have a question. In another thread someone mentioned that if you rack a semi-auto you have to pull the trigger to relieve the tension, otherwise I assume that would be bad for the spring. But I notice on the XCR that you have to rack the action to put it back into safe which is generally where I like my firearms to be. Am I missing something or is there something I don't understand? Thanks.
This is not isolated to the XCR. Many firearms will not allow the safety to be engaged if the gun is not "cocked". Many safety mechanisms only engage when the hammer is in the ready to fire position and the spring is compressed. A compressed spring is not a problem. Springs wear from continuous cycling, not from being left in a set position constantly.
I'm curious about the removal of the factory flash hider on the XCR. I was told by Wolverine that it was not possible or recommended to be removed. Are there any tutorials around, specifically for the XCR? I did search without much luck. Thanks guys.
I'll post some pics tomorrow of the removal of a A2 from an xcr-l barrel and the easiest way to get it off. I am a structural Ironworker and a welder but this can easily be done by anyone. Took me all of 3 mins to get mine off. Gonna upload pics to photobucket this evening and post ASAP
I sat down to do mine up and found my ex roommate had broken all my small drill bits and my dremel is missing.
I have noticed the pinning method for the .223 differs from the 6.8
the .223 is just solder, where as it looks like the 6.8 is a pin and solder?
I'm VERY curious to see this easy method!!
To my knowledge they are all pinned and spot welded. The purpose of this technique of pinning and welding is to avoid fusing or damaging the actual threads which would damage or destroy them. The pin is the only thing keeping he muzzle device in place not the weld , the weld only holds the pin in place. All I did to remove mine is , with a 1\8" grinding disc grind away at the surface of the weld ( about 3 millimeters down , such a small spot does not have much penetration ) , then once I could see a small discoloured ring around the pin I new I was past where the two had fused. Then all I did was take a 3\4" wrench and with the barrel in a vice just rock the muzzle device back and forth to loosen out the pin till it just fell out. Be sure not to overturn the flash hider when wiggling the pin out so that you dont damage the threads.
i dont know if this was replied to yet, but initially my pmags wouldnt even lock in with the bolt closed, after a while i looked at the 5 round block rivet and realized that it was kind of dented in from me forcing it. it was binding on the back of the magwell. I filed the outside of the rivet down flush and filed the sides in a bit to align with the plastic guide on the magazine itself. just file down anything that is portruding, obviously be sure not to file it right off
. no issues after that. I did it on all 10 of my pmags and they all work well now.Buy a Leatherwood scope.There is one at wolveriene supplies. Hi-Lux Camputer
A.R.T. M1200 6-24x50 good for 300 to 1200 meters. Costs $599.00
Here's a little ammo comparison I did tonight. Please keep in mind, I'm, at best, a mediocre deliberate shooter.
Shot 3 flavours of surplus 7.62x39. The regular Czech Tbpl/Fe, Chinese copper-washed, and the Czech Fe/Fe (the grey on grey stuff). The steel on steel on steel Fe/Fe is fairly uncommon, I've only come across one case of it.
I shot my XCR off bags on the bench. 10x40 Bushnell mil/mil scope. XCR pistol mags.
Target shot at 100m. Groups were shot from top left to top right, and bottom left to bottom right. One flyer in the first group and the last group only had 7 as I used up a few more than I planned sighting in. All groups were shot at gas setting 2. The Fe/Fe and Chinese will run perfectly on 1 but the Tbpl/Fe requires 2 for consistent operation. I was interested to note that the Chinese shot to a higher POA than either Czech type.
All groups were 10 shot, except the last, fired fairly rapidly and all the shots in the group came out of a single magazine.
Using my scientific tape measure here's the results. What do they show? IMO, with me behind the gun using the surplus I have on hand it's pretty much a 3 MOA combo with the groups just over 3" at 100m. I'm not sure what happened with the second Chinese group but no doubt it was me. I'm also sure a better shooter will get a better result.
I've got some Wolf HP and some Sako surplus that I'll shoot for group next time out.
Shot 3 flavours of surplus 7.62x39. The regular Czech Tbpl/Fe, Chinese copper-washed, and the Czech Fe/Fe (the grey on grey stuff). The steel on steel on steel Fe/Fe is fairly uncommon, I've only come across one case of it.
I shot my XCR off bags on the bench. 10x40 Bushnell mil/mil scope. XCR pistol mags.
Target shot at 100m. Groups were shot from top left to top right, and bottom left to bottom right. One flyer in the first group and the last group only had 7 as I used up a few more than I planned sighting in. All groups were shot at gas setting 2. The Fe/Fe and Chinese will run perfectly on 1 but the Tbpl/Fe requires 2 for consistent operation. I was interested to note that the Chinese shot to a higher POA than either Czech type.
All groups were 10 shot, except the last, fired fairly rapidly and all the shots in the group came out of a single magazine.
Using my scientific tape measure here's the results. What do they show? IMO, with me behind the gun using the surplus I have on hand it's pretty much a 3 MOA combo with the groups just over 3" at 100m. I'm not sure what happened with the second Chinese group but no doubt it was me. I'm also sure a better shooter will get a better result.
I've got some Wolf HP and some Sako surplus that I'll shoot for group next time out.
