Ruger #1 303 British and moose

TimC said:
All the more reason to Handload. I think I'll be ordering one from the Importers if work picks up in the new year!
That or get a classic martini rebarrelled with an SMLE tube!
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Like this?
Platypuss.jpg


No, it's not mine. I can't remember now where I got this pic and the accompanying text. But I believe John Sukey here on CGN (although he lives in Arizona, I think) has one very similar.

I also have a MkIII Martini in .303 that I put an SMLE barrel on as the original was shot out. Haven't really shot it much. The trigger is terrible and will need a whole day of uninterrupted patience to work on. I'm thinking of getting an SMLE NºIII "front end" from Marstar when they come in from the supplier in Greece... some day....

:) Stuart
 
josquin said:
Like this?
Platypuss.jpg


No, it's not mine. I can't remember now where I got this pic and the accompanying text. But I believe John Sukey here on CGN (although he lives in Arizona, I think) has one very similar.

I also have a MkIII Martini in .303 that I put an SMLE barrel on as the original was shot out. Haven't really shot it much. The trigger is terrible and will need a whole day of uninterrupted patience to work on. I'm thinking of getting an SMLE NºIII "front end" from Marstar when they come in from the supplier in Greece... some day....

:) Stuart
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Nice. A Martini in 303Br. in decent shape is something I wouldn't mind getting a hold of for a basis to build a custom single shot in 303Br. There's a couple a friend of mine has, one of which I've been 'asking' about. The top one is a James MacNaughton and the other a Rigby. I'll have to keep working on that but it may be in a little higher price bracket than I'm interested in.

IansSSsphoto1.jpg


IansSSsphoto2.jpg
 
I'm envious. I took a nice 8 point buck with my #1 in 7x57 mauser and I just love those little rifles. I'm thinking of adding more to the collection and let go of my other rifles.
 
I have various sportered military rifles for this sort of work, I would like 7mm Mauser but I may have to wait. It would have to be a carbine with a period scope and qd see through mounts. I have a CG94 like that already!
 
josquin said:
Like this?
Platypuss.jpg


No, it's not mine. I can't remember now where I got this pic and the accompanying text. But I believe John Sukey here on CGN (although he lives in Arizona, I think) has one very similar.

I also have a MkIII Martini in .303 that I put an SMLE barrel on as the original was shot out. Haven't really shot it much. The trigger is terrible and will need a whole day of uninterrupted patience to work on. I'm thinking of getting an SMLE NºIII "front end" from Marstar when they come in from the supplier in Greece... some day....

:) Stuart
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Ok quick question, how much metalwork was needed or are the knox form profiles and threads similar? I can do wood :)but am awful with metal!:mad:
 
I don't understand something. I was ready to get the #1 on the EE, now I think I will back off. You guys are good with 1 1/2" groups at 100yds from a brand-spanking-new" Ruger rifle?? I get 5/8" with my Savage 111 in .243, 3/8" from my Mossberg Night train in .308, and 3/4" from my Mossberg 100 ATR in .30-06. And you are seriously happy with 1 1/2" from something that carries such a high price tag and such a higher-end reputation??? How can this be. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my .303's. But only one shoots more than 2" and it is a .303 LEC built in 1898. I easily get 2" groups or less from #1M3, #4's (x4), #5, and both P-14's. Not seeing the reason to spend $1400 on a rifle that shoots no better than a used $150 SMLE. I was certainly expecting more.
 
rookie wildcat said:
I don't understand something. I was ready to get the #1 on the EE, now I think I will back off. You guys are good with 1 1/2" groups at 100yds from a brand-spanking-new" Ruger rifle?? I get 5/8" with my Savage 111 in .243, 3/8" from my Mossberg Night train in .308, and 3/4" from my Mossberg 100 ATR in .30-06. And you are seriously happy with 1 1/2" from something that carries such a high price tag and such a higher-end reputation??? How can this be. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my .303's. But only one shoots more than 2" and it is a .303 LEC built in 1898. I easily get 2" groups or less from #1M3, #4's (x4), #5, and both P-14's. Not seeing the reason to spend $1400 on a rifle that shoots no better than a used $150 SMLE. I was certainly expecting more.
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Do you really think that a rifle that shoots 1/2" groups is going to be better on a deer at 150 yards than a rifle that shoots 1 1/2" groups??:cool:
The danged things are hunting rifles , NOT target rifles, so the first shot is going to be the one that counts, and it doesn't matter HOW accurate the rifle is, you have to know WHERE to put the bullet - deer don't have aiming points on them.
There is FAR too much emphasis put on just how accurate a rifle has to be these days.
The Ruger single shot BTW, can be made more accurate with very few mods, but the guys that are shooting them can hit what they are aiming at, so it's moot point.
My Ruger was built for offhand shooting , NOT for shooting off a bench or by pod, it has open sights on it, so whether or not it will shoot a fancy group doesn't matter.....
Cat
 
I get 1" groups from my handloads in my #1 7x57 and I wouldn't part with it for no reason. I have a Savage in .223 and a rem 700 in .308 that shoot 3/8" groups all day when I do my part but these guns don't have what my Ruger has: personnality and true beauty.
 
TimC said:
Ok quick question, how much metalwork was needed or are the knox form profiles and threads similar? I can do wood :)but am awful with metal!:mad:
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I haven't done the "Platypuss" conversion myself so I can't say from personal experience. But I think that the only mod. required is to inlet the bottom of the rear forestock for the hook which holds the forestock into the breech, plus probably a little shaping of the wood where it meets the breech.

As to replacing the barrel, the threads are the same. I had Ellwood Epps do mine and I think the only thing they had to do was to machine out the breech face for the Martini extractor, so that will require the attention of a gunsmith.

:) Stuart
 
catnthehatt said:
Do you really think that a rifle that shoots 1/2" groups is going to be better on a deer at 150 yards than a rifle that shoots 1 1/2" groups??:cool:
The danged things are hunting rifles , NOT target rifles, so the first shot is going to be the one that counts, and it doesn't matter HOW accurate the rifle is, you have to know WHERE to put the bullet - deer don't have aiming points on them.
There is FAR too much emphasis put on just how accurate a rifle has to be these days.
The Ruger single shot BTW, can be made more accurate with very few mods, but the guys that are shooting them can hit what they are aiming at, so it's moot point.
My Ruger was built for offhand shooting , NOT for shooting off a bench or by pod, it has open sights on it, so whether or not it will shoot a fancy group doesn't matter.....
Cat
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That may be, but If I am spending that kind of money, I'll buy a Sako or a tikka. And besides, my accuracy at 100 yds determines what I am shooting at 400 or 600 yds and the .303Br IS a 400yd cartridge, if you can't deliver it, why have it? With the exception of my p-14's in .303BrAI, I don't use the .303Br for anything over 200yds in the rifles I have since a 4" target is my personal limit. They are more than capable of being great off-hand bush guns out to 100yds. And if that is all you are doing, you can get something a hell of a lot cheaper than $1400 to do it with!! Anfd why would I spend more money on a new factory rifle modding it to make it shoot better than a far less expensive rifle. This is only my opinion and I understand that some people have far more disposable cash than I and also have more expensive tastes than I do. I drive a 91 Jetta, a 94 F-150, and shoot rifles that are all less than $500, and most are milsurps costing less than $200. I get the game I shoot at and don't have to spend all day looking for it. That's all I need to get through the day. You may need more, so have at it. Just because I don't understand it, doesn't make it wrong.
 
rookie wildcat said:
That may be, but If I am spending that kind of money, I'll buy a Sako or a tikka. And besides, my accuracy at 100 yds determines what I am shooting at 400 or 600 yds and the .303Br IS a 400yd cartridge, if you can't deliver it, why have it? With the exception of my p-14's in .303BrAI, I don't use the .303Br for anything over 200yds in the rifles I have since a 4" target is my personal limit. They are more than capable of being great off-hand bush guns out to 100yds. And if that is all you are doing, you can get something a hell of a lot cheaper than $1400 to do it with!! Anfd why would I spend more money on a new factory rifle modding it to make it shoot better than a far less expensive rifle. This is only my opinion and I understand that some people have far more disposable cash than I and also have more expensive tastes than I do. I drive a 91 Jetta, a 94 F-150, and shoot rifles that are all less than $500, and most are milsurps costing less than $200. I get the game I shoot at and don't have to spend all day looking for it. That's all I need to get through the day. You may need more, so have at it. Just because I don't understand it, doesn't make it wrong.
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neither Tikka nor sako make a falling block single shot.
if the 303BR is a 400 yard cartridge how come you don't use yours past 200?
As far as mods go, there are very few that need to be done to a ruger No.1 to make it shoot better than factory.
I also shoot more than a few rifles and shotguns worth far less than $1,000, the money does not come into it.
I don't know where your last statement about spending all day looking for game comes from unless you are saying there are more animals in your area than mine, which there may very well be.
However, that has nothing to do with your original rant about 1.5" at 100 yards.
Shoot what you want but don't start telling someone they shouldn't be buying a rifle that you figure is over priced.
Cat
 
I'm the guy that shot the 1 1/2 group with the Federal 150s. The gun is brand new, and I haven't reloaded for it or shot any other ammo through it. It has had less than a box through it, and has shot a moose at 150 yards and my nice buck at a bit over 300 yards. All hunting shots were offhand. Once the rifle has had more loads through it, I'll find a load that shoots tighter. I bought the rifle, cause I like it.

If you want to shoot a savage, more power to you. I doubt your rifles could have done better than my Ruger #1 .303 British. And nobody here really gives a crap about what you drive. Maybe you should get a job and move out of your parents house.
 
1 and 1/2 inches is fine for deer, the UK test for the level 1 Deer stalking cert is 5 shots into a 4 inch circle at 100 yards. Most New stalkers turn up with Sakos and Tikkas and many struggle as they dont get the time to practise. I can regularly turn in 1 inch groups at that distance with military surplus rifles and either half decent factory or handloads. its al about practising which shows up what is a good load for the rifle.
The art of stalking is to get as close as possible to the target to ensure a clean and humane kill. Most of my shots are closer than 50 yards and some so close that a scope is pointless.
When I started stalking I had been a rifle shot and a long distance competitor since I was 13 years old. I have shot at 1200 yards and managed V Bulls but none of that compares to getting up close with a stalking rifle and taking a deer.
I have taken them out to 200 yards especially on the hill in Scotland but my 1920's Rigby Mauser was more than capable with 1970's Norma Factory fodder.
 
albertaal said:
I'm the guy that shot the 1 1/2 group with the Federal 150s. The gun is brand new, and I haven't reloaded for it or shot any other ammo through it. It has had less than a box through it, and has shot a moose at 150 yards and my nice buck at a bit over 300 yards. All hunting shots were offhand. Once the rifle has had more loads through it, I'll find a load that shoots tighter. I bought the rifle, cause I like it.

If you want to shoot a savage, more power to you. I doubt your rifles could have done better than my Ruger #1 .303 British. And nobody here really gives a crap about what you drive. Maybe you should get a job and move out of your parents house.
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No, there is no rifle which could have done better. BTW, I moved out 30 years ago and all of my own children have also moved out of their parents house. As I said, if you are satisfied with a $1499 rifle that shoots 1 1/2" groups, then by all means, be happy. I now tap out.
 
rookie wildcat said:
No, there is no rifle which could have done better. BTW, I moved out 30 years ago and all of my own children have also moved out of their parents house. As I said, if you are satisfied with a $1499 rifle that shoots 1 1/2" groups, then by all means, be happy. I now tap out.
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Actually READwhat albertaal said before you leave.
Crap, you just don't get it, and you never ......
Cat
 
Quote: Do you really think that a rifle that shoots 1/2" groups is going to be better on a deer at 150 yards than a rifle that shoots 1 1/2" groups??:cool:

Yes I do, I shoot most of my deer in the neck neat the head. The vertebrea is at the most under
under 2-1/2 inches. With a 1-1/2" rifle it would not be a 100% shot. I hate to shoot deer or moose through the body, and make a big mess with busted lungs and blood shot meat. Besides I am too old to track deer or moose through the bush in deep snow, because they ran several 100yrds or more.

I was going to buy a Ruger 303 but not anymore.
I shoot a custom #1 in 6.5x284 that will stay on the vertebrae at 300 yrds. I have several #1's and non will group over 3/4" at 100, and why should they not. A milsurp 1-1/2" is ok if you think so.
Like I said before a 303 Ruger #1 with an oversize bore is disgusting to say the least.
 
Fred M said:
Quote: Do you really think that a rifle that shoots 1/2" groups is going to be better on a deer at 150 yards than a rifle that shoots 1 1/2" groups??:cool:

Yes I do, I shoot most of my deer in the neck neat the head. The vertebrea is at the most under
under 2-1/2 inches. With a 1-1/2" rifle it would not be a 100% shot. I hate to shoot deer or moose through the body, and make a big mess with busted lungs and blood shot meat. Besides I am too old to track deer or moose through the bush in deep snow, because they ran several 100yrds or more.

I was going to buy a Ruger 303 but not anymore.
I shoot a custom #1 in 6.5x284 that will stay on the vertebrae at 300 yrds. I have several #1's and non will group over 3/4" at 100, and why should they not. A milsurp 1-1/2" is ok if you think so.
Like I said before a 303 Ruger #1 with an oversize bore is disgusting to say the least.
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There are those that would arue tha head and neck shots are not the optimum location for a sure fire kill, but then neither is a lung shot if it is too far back or forward.
i have owned more than a few Ruger No.1's that shoot super groups, but the light sporter is designed for close range stalking, not long range shooting.
from what undrstand the factory guns do not have oversized bores.
I do know that mine does not, and will hold MOA at 200 meters off the bench with express sights, but like I stated, it is not designed for that.
Cat
 
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