Ruger #1 Safety in the way of ejecting shells

Pudelpointer said:
I have 2 of 3 filed down on mine. Fairly simple process of removing from the stock and slipping the safety out - come to think of it, IIRC, there was a temp drift pin used somewhere, but it was not difficult.

The 375 chucks the empty with authority (was going to be my griz gun in BC) while the 270 clears the ramp easily. My 22-250 I have left the safety stock and turned down the ejector spring so that the ejected case does not hit the safety hard enough to bounce back into the chamber - but, I have no intention of ever shooting at anything that might fight back with this one, so speedy second shots are rarely important.

Ian
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Hi Ian

Is that the .270 Win I sold you?

I vaguely remember been somewhat annoyed with the safety on that one. It was a fairly easy chore to remove the safety and modify it so tha ejected cases wouldn't catch.
 
Yup, same one.

Except for an extreme sensitivity to fore end pressure, it has been a fantastic rifle. It is currently stripped down to be rust blacked, but I need to have the barrel stripped from the action first. I refinished the stock a while back.

One of these days I will post some photos of it.
 
Pudelpointer said:
Yup, same one.

Except for an extreme sensitivity to fore end pressure, it has been a fantastic rifle. It is currently stripped down to be rust blacked, but I need to have the barrel stripped from the action first. I refinished the stock a while back.

One of these days I will post some photos of it.
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Send it to me. I've got a pipe wrench and a vise.:cool:
 
tkv000 said:
First and foremost, I did a search, didn't come up with anything, second, I knew about this issue before I acquired both my Ruger #1's, but though I could live with it. But its starting to annoy me...

What should I do?
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Ah! It's a piece of crap...and ugly too. You should sell it to me!:D
 
I have never had a problem, but have seen some pretty nice alterations done. Most include milling a recess into the the top of the tang, milling the bottom of the safety to fit into the recess, and lowering the saftey into the recess. I couldnt find the pics of the one I really like, but here is another style.
DSC00420.jpg
 
Now THAT is exactly how it should come like from the factory, that is very nice, thank you. if you find the other one, please post it as well.
 
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What Safety Issue?

DoubleGun's modification is first-class, wow.

Rebluing everything to match is what makes it appealing to me except that it's time consuming and costly. Yet that's what we do to the favourite guns we intend to keep.

Good thread, beats the politics out there at the moment.

FM
 
What about on a stainless model? Would it need to be repolished? less work or more work? I've got one stainless and one blued, I'd like to get them both "fixed".
 
Stainless is easier, just polish. Blued, well the cold blue will wear, though some guys say they have good luck with heating parts before "cold" blueing. At least it is a small part to work with.
 
Ahhh, stainless...

The stainless one is easier since the only refinishing required is if you wish to better match the matte stainless finish by having the machined surface and modified safety vapour or maybe walnut-shell blasted but since all the parts are stainless this step is optional. On the blued steel version some protection is needed ASAP following any machining steps.

That's one reason my blued/walnut 45/70 is still as stock--I learned to tip it slightly sideways on the lengthwise axis before ejecting if I need to reload.
 
Oops, out of synch, here, sorry

That's an easy job on a manual mill. Your local gunsmith needs jobs like this to stay in business, not a specialist job. That doesn't mean expensive, either.
 
Agreed, he's closed Mondays now to catch up on 'smith work. He was just to backlogged before. I'll print out the picture and head down there and see if he's interested. Thanks. If he is interested, I'll get the stainless done first to see if I like it, if I do, I'll get the blued one done to match.
 
tkv000 said:
Now...to find someone who can mill the slot out, make a new safety lever/slider thing...Reblue the blued rifle, and put it all together. :wave: Anyone?
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I showed Martini & Hagn this pic, and they said they would be willing to do it....What they do they do well. No idea of the cost. Sorry for the pic quality, when I scanned and enlarged it things happen.
1.jpg
 
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By the time all is said and done, this is easily a half day's work. After doing a half dozen or so, the gunsmith could possibly cut that in half The last auto shop that did work for me charged 98.00 per hour. A gunsmith should be worth at least half that. Regards, Bill.
 
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